I think it’s the Bentley for Men Absolute, Nick

And I miss the second (blue) one! Have you tried the two other versions of GpH Nick, the Bentley and Papyrus Oud?

In town today to catch up with Mabelle O Rama and you can imagine how delighted I was to receive Phoenix Flame, her latest release. It’s been my scent of the winter, a smoky spicy labdanum-fused amber oud with reflections of Mabelle’s country of birth, Lebanon, through clever use of sumac.

It includes Bulgarian and Azerbaijani rose, Thai and Indian oud, Indian and Indonesian sandalwood and vetiver from both Java and Haiti.

It’s a limited production run of 300 bottles, mine is number 180. Notes include: olibanum, cardamom, bergamot, saffron, rose, jasmine, osmanthus, thai oud, sandalwood, vetiver, cedar, guaiac, brown ambergris, gurjan balsam, tobacco, patchouli.

It could easily be what LV’s Pur Oud should always have been and would sit comfortably within Cavallier’s catalogue for the brand. Still on my skin for a second day, it’s now reminiscent of the Oud facets of Ombre Nomade with none of the obnoxious fruit and pomp.

However, it is a thing of real beauty, its paint strokes deft, its curls of smoke delicate despite being acrid and strong. The oud is of an ornamental quality, as if someone has taken an oud chip and polished it to show off its contrasting hues and lines, only for it to be set alight and burned.

This one had passed me by, but I typically love Rasqinuet’s work. I’ll have to seek it out.

I’d used up my sample in record time, connecting with it deeply, sensing it had become an extension of me. CO has been developed over a period of time and you can really feel it. Its use of oud is on the heavy side and consequently it will be something more for true oud aficionados to enjoy.

Generous to a fault, Amer kindly gifted me (in a traditional sense rather than the social media gifts we’re all accustomed to) an early sample of CO back in Milan and I have been eagerly awaiting its release ever since, absolutely sure that as soon as it launches I will buy it.

Second is a really special thing by Art+Olfaction award winner Amer Alradhi. New release, Charred Oud. Amer is a quietly spoken gentleman and an incredible perfumer. CO is unreal. Like smelling a burning oud chip. No barn. Just bitter smoke and ornamental medicinal thai oud.

First up Bulgari’s La Gemme Orom, a sultry benzoin+oud+vanilla by the ever amazing Sophie Labbé. So easy and wearable with just a touch of barn. One of my favourite ambers.

New year, new app, first post.

I think 2025 is going to be a year of oud, for me at least.

Having purchased very few bottles of perfume last year, it’s January and I’m already two deep.