Also, what a beautiful outfit. 🙏

Menswear writer here. 👋 Let me tell you why you shouldn't wear an armband like that. 🧵

Now that the Supreme Court has ordered the Trump administration to refund companies what they paid in tariffs, yet there are still tariffs in place, what's the plan? Consumers continue to fork money over to corporations who will later get another refund?

I paid about $1k in tariffs last year to various carriers, such as FedEx and DHL, for importing goods that have no comparable substitutes in the US. I have no idea how I would even get that money back. If a process exists, it will take hours out of my day.

A clip from The New York Times reads: "But only the entities that officially paid the tariffs are eligible to recover that money. That means that the fuller universe of people affected by Mr. Trump’s policies — including millions of Americans who paid higher prices for the products they bought — are not able to apply for direct relief. The extent to which consumers realize any gain hinges on whether businesses share the proceeds, something that few have publicly committed to do. Some have started to band together in class-action lawsuits in the hopes of receiving a payout."

The average American family paid $1,700 in tariffs last year, according to the bipartisan Congressional Joint Economic Committee. Few will ever see any of that money back. The refunds will go to companies, if doled out at all. What a joke.

Most men don't know how to check for things such as fit, silhouette, and movement when trying on clothes. They only look for comfort. Thus, when a company is trying to sell as many clothes as possible, they will often do a lower armhole to accommodate more bodies. A high armhole can dig into you.

Jesse Waters is wearing a blue suit while raising his his arm. The low armhole is forcing the shoulder pad to lift off his body.

James Cagney is wearing a suit while dancing. He's jumping mid-air and raising his arm. Since the armhole is cut correctly for his body, the jacket stays almost totally still, even as he's moving. He looks much more elegant than Waters in this sense.

When a jacket's armhole is too low or not properly shaped for the wearer, it can restrict movement. This can force the shoulder pad to lift off the body. Good tailoring should allow for free and comfortable movement, making the garment look natural on you.

What do you notice here?

this morning, mamdani’s team got in touch with me to float a new tax proposal: if your net worth exceeds $5 million and you dress badly, you’ll be hit with a 10% annual levy for “visual pollution.” i would be in charge of deciding if the outfits are bad.

My grandfather.

@deptofwar.bsky.social Sec Hegseth, my grandfather served in WW2. He carried a piece of paper in his pocket the whole time, on which he wrote his favorite Bible verse. It'd mean so much if you could recite this verse at your next speech:

"You miss 100% of the shots you don't take." — Jesus Christ

"hi can you recommend any super cheap, ethically made clothes that will last forever and make me feel like a swaddled little baby while also making me look like a super attractive, stylish man, yet take no time or effort to acquire? this is social media, so pls just drop a link."

JD Vance wearing a white button-up shirt. It looks like it's a size too small for him.

"pope should stay out of politics." brother you need to stay out of a size medium

I'm not Christian or even a theist (I'm agnostic), but I'm a liberal cosmopolitan who thinks it's fine for Christians to advocate for Muslims.

Cosmopolitanism is hardly new. In late Ottoman Constantinople, large populations of Greeks, Turks, Armenians, Sephardic Jews, Arabs, and Balkan Christians lived together. But Stuart Hall nailed it in the 90s when he said "The capacity to live with difference is the coming question of the 21st cent."

Megan Basham on Twitter writes: "Given that I have been critical of the pope in the last few days, including on his self-described communion with Muslims, I do want to take a minute to remind Southern Baptists that our leadership has taken similar stances. The former president of the Southern Baptist Convention, JD Greear, wrote in his book Breaking the Islam code that Muslims and Christians worship the same God. And the former head of our lobbying arm, Russell Moore, argued that we must advocate for the building of mosques in the United States. So this strange promotion of Islam within Christianity is happening all over. Both Catholics and Protestants should be asking why their leadership is doing this." She has attached some screenshots showing that some Christians are OK with finding common ground with Muslims.

Some MAGA acolytes can't imagine people of different creeds, backgrounds, and cultures living peacefully side-by-side. The project to create a cosmopolitan society must be a dark conspiracy. IMO, the central issue of our time is this regressive idea of ethnic absolutism.

Celine Dion in a white t-shirt and black leather jacket talking on the phone. The caption reads: "je téléphone a la police"

A chart showing the stock price for Allbirds. It went up 582.33% today.

could have bought a home in a walkable neighborhood today if i wasn't so snobbish 😔

A white garment with some kind of food stain. Humiliating.

A pair of dirty hands rest on a car engine. Rough, tough, cool.

Here is an easy solution:

Food stains are humiliating, as they suggest you're a little baby who can't feed themselves.

Oil stains, such as those you'd get from working on your car, suggest you're tough, independent, and skilled.

Thus, simply cover your food stains with used motor oil.

Personally don't recommend these. As the article notes, these properties are typically achieved through PFAS, which can shed carcinogens in your home (which you then inhale) or come out in the wash (polluting waterways for decades). Will try to do a thread on how to treat stains in the wash.

A man drinking coffee and looking out of the window. He's at some kind of restaurant or diner and wearing a madras jacket.

There is no "best" chino, just as there's no "best" coffee. When choosing coffee, it's helpful to identify which notes you like. Almond? Caramel? Spiced Cider? Light or dark roast? Natural or washed process? Developing this understanding will help you buy clothes that better suit your preferences.

A man wearing a navy t-shirt with tan Buck Mason chinos.

A man wearing a blue trucker jacket with tan Buck Mason chinos.

These can be worn with a wide range of basic things, such as trucker jackets, t-shirts, oxford cloth button-downs, chambray shirts, sweatshirts, field jackets. They don't lean too much in any one direction, which makes them versatile. Leon Hedgepeth from GQ is wearing Buck Mason's chinos below.

A close-up of Buck Mason chinos.

A pair of J. Crew chinos.

Granted, if you're just starting out, this may feel daunting. Most guys are looking for generic chinos they can knock around in. For that kind of thing, I recommend J. Crew's "Classic" chino or Buck Mason's "Paperback Twill Full Saddle." Ralph Lauren is also worth a look.

A 1937 laborer wearing chinos with a work shirt.

A pair of brown Viberg service boots.

George Plimpton wearing tan chinos with a striped button-down shirt.

A pair of Alden loafers.

This semiotical understanding of clothing will also give you an idea on how to style them. If you like that original workwear look, you'll want to pair rugged versions of chinos with service boots and chambray shirts. Preppy versions can be teamed with oxford button-downs and loafers.

A page from Free & Easy, which shows the small differences between different chinos.

Instead, start with cultural history. Research the garment. Save photos of outfits you like. Develop an understanding of visual language and look for things that allow you to express what you want. Small tweaks to the cut, cloth, pocket style, buttons, and stitching can change what a garment means.

The point of this thread is to encourage you to think about clothes beyond abstract ideas such as "best quality." A guy who wants a really tough pair of pants will appreciate a heavy cloth; someone who prioritizes comfort might want something softer and thinner.

A man wearing tan Dickies with a dark jacket and hoodie.

Doechi wearing a Willy Chavarria x Dickies collaboration chinos with a white jacket.

Of course, these are not the only categories. Dickies makes pants that could be describe as chinos — they are cotton, partly, and come in a sandy color. Although they were originally made for laborers, they intersect with cultures beyond prep and workwear.

A pair of tan J. Crew chinos.

Ron Desantis wearing a suit jacket with a white dress shirt, red tie, and tan chinos.

A close up of Ron Desantis's chinos show they have a puckered inseam, a result of the double-needle stitching.

Compare that to these J. Crew chinos, which have double-needle stitching (a detail original put onto work pants for added durability). That's what's causing that puckering along the inseam and outseam. If you wear these with a tailored jacket, the puckering will look weird with your fine tailoring.

A pair of tan Rota chinos.

A man wearing tan Rota chinos with an olive Barbour jacket.

A man wearing tan Rota chinos with a brown sport coat.

Rota is also good for a tailored look. These are built like tailored wool trousers. They are made with a waistband and single-needle stitching, such that you get a clean line along the inseam and outseam. They also come in a high-rise that pairs well with a sport coat.

A man wearing J. Press chinos with a navy blazer, white button-down shirt, and green striped tie.

A man wearing tan O'Connell's chinos with a sport coat and blue chambray shirt.

If your style leans a bit more prep, then check out J. Press, O'Connell's, and The Andover Shop. Their chinos go particularly well with a tailored jacket. O'Connell's is especially good if you want that full cut, high rise, classic chino in a wide range of sizes.