A Marneus Calgar miniature from the game Warhammer 40,000 painted in blue power armor as is typical of the Ultramarines chapter

Marneus Calgar in Armour of Antilochus, available on Etsy
#miniatures #minuaturepainting #warhammer #warhammer40k #marneuscalgar #ultramarines

Various Battletech bettlemechs

A plastic model of the Warhammer 40,000 space elf character Fuegan, painted in oranges and reds to a fancy display level

Fuegan, Phoenix Lord, now up for sale on Etsy. Voidbrushstudios.etsy.com

The Hernkyn Yaegirs kill team is now available to purchase in my Etsy shop. Voidbrushstudios.etsy.com
#leaguesofvotann #hernkynyaegirs #killteam #warhammer40k

I’m going to paint Battletech minis to offer on Etsy. Anyone want to suggest mechs, factions, or boxed products that you think I should tackle? #battletech #mechwarrior #miniaturepainting

Typhus is now available for sale on my Etsy page. Please check it out. voidbrushstudios.etsy.com

The ratling kill team on my Etsy shop is on sale for this week only. Voidbrushstudios.etsy.com

MiniPaint tip of the day: When you think you are done, put the model aside for at least a day. When you come back, highlight and glaze some more. #miniaturepainting

MiniPaint tip of the day #mptotd: Varnish is useful for protecting gaming models, but it can also reduce the appearance of come contrast especially on edges highlights. Consider pushing some of your highlights a little further if you will varnish heavily. #miniaturepainting

Bonus tip: There’s no better time to clean mold lines and drill gun barrels than right after clipping parts off the frame and before glueing the part to anything. You never get better access than right then. Cleaning mold lines off fully assembled models is madness.

MiniPaint tip of the day #mptotd: For hard plastic models, a folded up slip of 800 grit sandpaper is a flexible tool for cleaning up parts. Fold it several times to make it semi-rigid or fold it once to slip into tiny cracks. Reach places most sanding sticks can’t. #miniaturepainting #modelingtips

Like this was the very specific reason I said “complementary color neutralization” and not just “complementarity”

My apologies. I got overly defensive. I wasn’t trying to extend that far into controversial waters. Merely trying to say there are five simple concepts that hive you tools in using colors as weapons. I stay away from “what to use with what” as much as I can now.

I’m making no statement about suitability of colors. Neutralization is just the nearly objective desaturation that happens in a mix when colors fairly opposite in hue are mixed.

That has absolutely nothing to do with complementary color neutralization. At all.

MiniPaint tip of the day #mptotd: There are surprisingly few color theory concepts you need to master: hue, value, intensity, complementary color neutralization, and color luminance. That’s it! Look one up today. #miniaturepainting #mpcolortheory

But when you touch a wet brush to a wet surface, the cohesion to the wet paint is roughly equal to the cohesion in the brush paint, so very little paint leaves the brush tip. It’s just not very productive.

Getting sciency: Water adhesion (water sticking to another surface) is stronger than water cohesion (water molecules sticking together). When we touch a dry surface, the adhesion of watery paint to the dry surface overcomes cohesion of the paint within the brush and pulls paint off the brush

Trying to add more wet paint to wet paint (excepting wet blending) doesn’t add more. It mostly just pushes around what is there. Pushing around paint while it’s drying causes tears and unwanted texture.

MiniPaint tip of the day #mptotd, #noobmptotd: Among the biggest mistakes new painters make is trying to add more paint to already wet paint. Make an area wet with paint, move along, let it dry, then come back and repeat.

New models up for sale in my Etsy store: Gorslav the Gravekeeper and Torgillius the Chamberlain of the Soulblight Gravelords. Also check out the fancy new shop banner and drop a follow. Voidbrushstudios.etsy.com

To get started you need: a tube of oil paint (start with ivory black and burnt umber), some mineral spirits, a junky brush, and a small container that can hold mineral spirits for mixing in. Latex makeup sponges and cotton swabs recommended.

MiniPaint tip of the day #mptotd: If you haven’t yet, it’s time to try oil washes. They are fast and easy and don’t require repainting large areas when you over apply like with acrylic washes. They settle into fine detail better. #miniaturepainting

An additional benefit is that if you ever need to remove the model to rebase, it’s easier to slice through the sheeting with a flathead scalpel blade than cleanly separating feet directly from the base.

Mini tip of the day: For polystyrene models, you can plastic cement a small slip of styrene sheet to the bottoms of feet. Makes it easier to get a secure connection to the base. It also raises the feet up, allowing a more natural look if you use grit or texture paint. #miniaturepainting #mptotd

Minipaint Tip of the Day #mptotd: How much paint is on your brush is as or more important than paint consistency. Cultivate awareness of your brush loading and nearly all techniques become easier. #allminipainters

Still available on my Etsy store. Voidbrushstudios.etsy.com

Should I start posting miniature painting tip of the day posts? One yes and I’ll start.

Was up way too late playing shuffleboard in a garage and drinking. Here’s a ratling, available in my Etsy shop

Happy birthday, Cobra! (I’m late. I just returned to social media)