This is why it is hard to fathom Chiara Pepe’s embrace of the “flying winemaker” role, which is predicated upon a division between ownership and operation of an estate.
Posts by Aaron Ayscough
This week: L'Affaire Natur-All. Should sommeliers push de-alcoholized "wine"? Claire Naudin's bird concerns. Haut Les Vins is not a natural wine salon. And more.
Rarely does one encounter, so early in a vigneron’s career, such a brilliantly-realized and uncompromising vision of patient, small-scale natural winemaking.
Behind every great bottle of natural wine is a value system, waiting to be discerned.
Below with no paywall is a list of my Ten Natural Wine Fascinations of 2025 - the bottles that sparked the most reflection.
Fabio Gea is practically alone in the region in regularly producing truly majestic unsulfited nebbiolo.
If only Gea himself were content with this achievement!
Instead he continues refining numerous innovative, tortuous-sounding vinification methods, on which more in the new interview …
“I’m a beginner when it comes to nebbiolo… I got interested because I harvested it, but I don’t have a culture of nebbiolo. The more I taste, the more I’m disappointed.”
the award seems like a nice occasion to share my own highly subjective list of Meilleur Cavistes - the ones whose examples taught me everything I know about selling natural wine
An archive interview with singular Scurzolengo (Piemonte) vigneronne Nadia Verrua, whose collaboration with her parents has brought simple, paisano winemaking to unprecedented places.
i appreciate alicia dorey’s work but it won’t do to have a cavalcade of conventional winemakers parading into the natural wine market through an alicia dorey-sized hole in the discourse
Primary school headmaster, heavy metal afficionado, beer geek - Abasar's Levente Major wears many hats.
He also produces some of Hungary's greatest white wines.
it’s a massacre in the hérault (on the abandoned vines im picking). waaaaaay more bird appetire this year prob due to wildfires in aude
“Old school farming, normal peasant farming, centuries ago, by today's standards, we would call it polyculture. But it's just how nature works. It's ten times more resilient to climate change, and it's better for everything.”
PAP farm 6ha in the volcanic hillscape surrounding Lake Balaton - which is, for context, home to Hungary’s most dynamic, thriving natural wine community 🍇🌋🍷
Exploring volcanic terroirs in a hotbed of illiberalism.
Plus: visits to Levente Major, Papa Aron Pince, and Bálint Losonci
An archive interview with the inestimably influential Languedoc vigneron behind Fontedicto, who passed away on Aug. 4th.
A belated report on my third vintage of wines from abandoned vineyards in the Languedoc. (And another wine from an abandoned vineyard in the Loiret) 🍇
Hostel Orfenor plays the role of Southside Johnny to the Auberge de Chassignolles’ Bruce Springsteen: the local hero, of more limited ambition and fame.
A calendar of upcoming SUMMER 2025 NATURAL WINE SALONS.
Plus: a visit to Auvergne natural wine destination Hostel Orfenor, and a report on my 2023 vintage.
New DROPLETS just dropped.
This week: Jefford on autocracy. Why winery start-ups fail. Eco concern-trolling in the Guardian. Still Prosecco. The fine water scam. And more.
Earlier this month, Lester opened a new establishment in Clermont-Ferrand, Le Comptoir Central des Bazars, retaining the name of the toy shop that formerly inhabited the site on rue Lecoq
one great thing about opening my own restaurant is my family stopped telling me i should open my own restaurant
is there any aesthetic / gustatory benefit to using dried chickpeas instead of canned or jarred ?
A chat with peripatetic Mexican chef and horse-plowing adept Mateo Breña, whose résumé includes work for Gut Oggau and Domaine Dandelion, alongside innumerable taco pop-ups 🌮 🐴🍷
Series V of the NOT DRINKING POISON podcast begins 🎙️🍷
New interviews with chefs Harry Lester, Jonathan Schweitzer, and Mateo Breña