Everest 2026: April 19 Weekend Update – 8000er Summits, Icefall Woes After waiting as long as two weeks, climbers on Annapurna, Makalu and Dhaulagiri finally stood on the summit. But Everest lags as the route from EBC to the Western Cwm is stalled. EverestER is already busy, having seen over 100 patients thus far this season. It's over for Ryan Mitchell. #everest2026

Everest 2026: April 19 Weekend Update – 8000er Summits, Icefall Woes

After waiting as long as two weeks, climbers on Annapurna, Makalu and Dhaulagiri finally stood on the summit. But Everest lags as the route from EBC to the Western Cwm is stalled. EverestER is already busy, having seen over 100…

Everest 2026: April 12 Weekend Update – The Khumbu is Alive!

Teahouses are buzzing, the trails are full, the yaks are loaded–as are the porters bearing unbelievable loads. Yes, the Khumbu is alive. But the weather is poor for some of the 8000ers. #everest2026

Everest 2026: April 5 Weekend Update – Debunking Poison Rumors In this weekend update, I cover a lot of ground, primarily around misinformation regarding "Everest Guides Poisoning Clients" - FALSE. The actual issue is a large-scale insurance fraud scheme targeting trekkers (not climbers) across Nepal's trekking circuits, involving fake helicopter evacuations and hospital stays. Additionally, Global Rescue will not provide longline rescues above Camp 2 this year due to a lack of qualified pilots, which will fundamentally change expectations for climber safety.  We also look at heavy snow delaying summits on Annapurna and, of course, a status update on Ryan Mitchell. #everest2026

Everest 2026: April 5 Weekend Update – Debunking Poison Rumors

In this weekend update, I cover a lot of ground, primarily around misinformation regarding "Everest Guides Poisoning Clients" - FALSE. The actual issue is a large-scale insurance fraud scheme targeting trekkers (not climbers) across…

Everest 2026: Are Everest Climbers Being Poisoned? | The Blog on alanarnette.com The media is going crazy with this headline in, of all places, People Magazine:" Mount Everest Climbers 'Poisoned' by Guides Prompting Mass Helicopter Rescues in $20 Million Insurance Fraud Scheme, Po...

www.alanarnette.com/blog/2026/04...

Everest 2026: Climber Rescue Alert | The Blog on alanarnette.com I've been informed by the largest evacuation company, Global Rescue, that long-line rescues are unlikely to be available in the Himalayas this spring through their membership program. With an uncertai...

I've been informed by the largest evacuation company, Global Rescue, that long-line rescues are unlikely to be available in the Himalayas this spring through their membership program.

www.alanarnette.com/blog/2026/04...

Everest 2026: Climbers to Watch this Season | The Blog on alanarnette.com Everest Base Camp is taking shape as two more of Nepal's eight 8,000-meter peaks see climbers arriving at their bases. This year, there are several interesting climbers to watch beyond the hundreds of...

Everest Base Camp is taking shape as two more of Nepal's eight 8,000-meter peaks see climbers arriving at their bases. This year, there are several interesting climbers to watch beyond the hundreds of aspirants on commercial teams.

www.alanarnette.com/blog/2026/03...

Everest 2026: North Side Closed, New Rules in Effect: Everest 2026 Season Update | The Blog on alanarnette.com The spring 2026 Everest climbing season is just around the corner. The Icefall doctors are already at Base Camp, preparing to fix the ropes to Camp 2 in the upper Western Cwm. Many expedition teams ha...

The spring 2026 Everest climbing season BEGINS. The Icefall doctors are already at Base Camp, preparing to fix the ropes to Camp 2 in the upper Western Cwm. Teams have already sent Sherpas to reserve their traditional spots and have begun building tent platforms

www.alanarnette.com/blog/2026/03...

Everest 2026: Icefall Doctors Launched | The Blog on alanarnette.com The backbone of every Everest season on the Nepali side are the Icefall Doctors, a team of highly skilled Sherpas who establish the climbing route and set the thin nylon safety rope from Base Camp to ...

The Icefall Doctors are on their way to Everest Base Camp to fix the lines in the Icefall.

In the Podcast, I introduce the season and review some of my background posts on costs, total summits and deaths, route figures, and more. #everest2026

www.alanarnette.com/blog/2026/03...

Everest 2026: Rumor Fire Season | The Blog on alanarnette.com With the Everest 2026 season about six weeks away, the rumor mill is on fire, out of control. With the explosion of social media influencers and mainstream (and many outdoor/adventurous media) using s...

As Everest 2026 approaches, social media buzz and clickbait headlines from mainstream and outdoor media spread misinformation, misleading readers. Let's clarify some rumors (noting I'm not perfect!) about the 7000-meter requirment and closing Everest's Tibet side

www.alanarnette.com/blog/2026/02...

The mainstream media is misrepresenting new Everest rules. Applicants now must have climbed a 7,000-meter mountain in Nepal. The bill still needs to pass lower house and be signed by the President, a process that could take months. No change spring 2026 season na.parliament.gov.np/en/bills/yZP...

Podcast with Astronaut & Everest Summiteer Scott Parazynski | The Blog on alanarnette.com In this podcast, I speak with Scott Parazynski, who is about as unique an individual as you will find these days. Consider a small fraction of his achievements: Space/Astronaut/Education Career: Five-...

In this podcast, I speak with Scott Parazynski, who is about as unique an individual as you will find these days.
I hope you enjoy the episode and perhapshis book, The Sky Below: A True Story of Summits, Space, and Speed.

Climb On!
Alan
Memories are Everything

www.alanarnette.com/blog/2026/02...

Comparing the Routes of Everest – 2026 edition This another BIg Picture post before my annual coverage of Everest 2025. The season is still a few months away, and I'll be posting several updates before the season officially begins in early April: - Everest by the Numbers: 2025 Edition - A deep dive into Everest statistics as compiled by the Himalayan Database (posted December 16, 2024) - Comparing the Routes of Everest: 2025 Edition - A detailed look at Everest's commercial, standard and non-standard routes. (posted December 19, 2024) - How Much Does it Cost to Climb Everest: 2025 Edition - My annual review of what it costs to climb Everest, solo, unsupported and guided. - Everest 2025: Welcome to Everest 2025 Coverage - an introduction to the Everest 2025 Spring season. 2025 will be my 25th season of all things Everest: 19 times providing coverage, another four seasons of climbing on Everest, and two years attempting Lhotse. This is an updated post of my annual "Comparing the Routes of Everest " blog post. For 98% of all Everest climbers, the choice of routes is the Northeast (Tibet) and Southeast (Nepal) Ridges. For today's commercial clients, all other routes are too dangerous, complicated, and not commercially guided. This post will examine the various routes and explore the most popular commercial through 2024. Why do I do this? Well, one word: Alzheimer's. I lost my mom, Ida, and four aunts to this disease, which changed my life forever. You can read more at this link. I hope you enjoy my coverage and donate to any of my selected non-profit partners or your preference as a tangible thank you. Of course, I never benefit financially from your donations. Just click on the button, which is always at the top right sidebar. #everest2025

Comparing the Routes of Everest – 2026 edition

This another BIg Picture post before my annual coverage of Everest 2025. The season is still a few months away, and I'll be posting several updates before the season officially begins in early April: - Everest by the Numbers: 2025 Edition - A deep…

Everest by the Numbers: 2026 Edition Welcome to my ongoing Everest 2026 coverage! 2026 marks my 23rd year covering all things Everest. If you’re a long-time reader, welcome back. If you’re new here, thanks for joining me. Everest by the Numbers: 2026 Edition is an exhaustive review of data and statistics around Everest mountaineering. #everest2026

Everest by the Numbers: 2026 Edition

Welcome to my ongoing Everest 2026 coverage! 2026 marks my 23rd year covering all things Everest. If you’re a long-time reader, welcome back. If you’re new here, thanks for joining me. Everest by the Numbers: 2026 Edition is an exhaustive review of data and…

Podcast with Ryan Mitchell & Justin Sackett: Plans for Two 8000ers, No O’s Ryan Mitchell, a Summit Coach client, is preparing to climb two 8000-meter peaks, without supplemental oxygen, with his friend and professional mountain guide, Justin Sackett. In this podcast, we discuss the expedition, its risks, decision-making and emotions. As usual, Ryan will film the climbs and post on his very popular YouTube channel.  We also discussed the upcoming Everest season and some potential policy changes, especially on the Nepal side. #everest2026

Podcast with Ryan Mitchell & Justin Sackett: Plans for Two 8000ers, No O’s

Ryan Mitchell, a Summit Coach client, is preparing to climb two 8000-meter peaks, without supplemental oxygen, with his friend and professional mountain guide, Justin Sackett. In this podcast, we discuss the expedition, its…

Everest 2026: Welcome to Everest 2026 Coverage Welcome to the kick-off for my Everest 2026 coverage, my 23rd year covering all things Everest. If you’re a long-time reader, welcome back. If you’re new here, thanks for joining me. I summited Everest on May 21, 2011, and have climbed on the mountain three other times (all from the Nepalese side): 2002, 2003, and 2008. On these attempts, I reached just below the Balcony around 27,500 feet (8400 meters) before health, weather, or my judgment caused me to turn back. I also attempted Lhotse in 2015 and 2016. Although the climbing season is still a few months away, I’ll publish several big-picture articles before activity ramps up in early April. Once the season begins in early April, updates become more frequent and intensify during the summit pushes of mid-to-late May. You can sign up for (or cancel) email notifications in the lower-right sidebar, or simply check the site regularly. #everest2026

Everest 2026: Welcome to Everest 2026 Coverage

Welcome to the kick-off for my Everest 2026 coverage, my 23rd year covering all things Everest. If you’re a long-time reader, welcome back. If you’re new here, thanks for joining me. I summited Everest on May 21, 2011, and have climbed on the mountain…

7-Summits-in-One-Year-Podcast-with-Garrett-Madison

As we close out 2025, I caught up with Garrett Maddison, founder of Madison Mountaineering, for a rare moment while he was home in the Seattle area. Garrett summited all of the Seven Summits (Messner List) in 2025, plus had some interesting times…

2025 Wrap Up & Talking Weather with Chris Tomer Mid-December is a quiet time in the mountaineering world, so I thought it would be nice to pick meteorologist Chris Tomer of Tomer Weather Solution’s brain on the upcoming winter season for mountaineering across the globe. And, of course, we have to touch on Everest. The 8000er season is chiefly over, and the true winter climbs have yet to begin in earnest. But soon, we will have activity in Antarctica with adventurers attempting full crossings, climbers going for Vinson, Tyree and maybe an unclimbed peak or two. Then, as we move towards the new year, the slopes of Acocnagua become busy with a new group of aspirants wanting to test themselves at 7,000 meters, perhaps for training for an upcoming Everest climb. In this Podcast, I briefly review the 2025 year in mountaineering and share my thoughts on a “Climber’s Holiday Season." #everest2026

2025 Wrap Up & Talking Weather with Chris Tomer

Mid-December is a quiet time in the mountaineering world, so I thought it would be nice to pick meteorologist Chris Tomer of Tomer Weather Solution’s brain on the upcoming winter season for mountaineering across the globe. And, of course, we have to…

Everest 2026: Khumbu Icefall Bypass-Real or a Dream? Mostly, local Nepalese media are promoting a new route bypassing the infamous Khumbu Icefall, claiming it to be shorter, faster, and safer, retracing the original path used by the British 1953 expedition that accomplished the first Everest summit. These articles seem to confuse a new route with an old trekking route reopened, and may not have thoroughly fact-checked some of the performance claims.  While the overall press is limited and has not gone mainstream, the facts are not as simple as "new summit route."  I believe commercial operators will rarely use the route on Nuptse's flanks to bypass the Icefall, as it is too difficult for today's average Everest climber. Still, it may be used by a few who have the skills and desire to avoid the Icefall. Let's take a look at the proposed new route, its history, then fact-check some of the claims, including that the Icefall is the most dangerous section when climbing Everest, and finally, a look at what today's climbers can do if they have Icefall concerns. #everest2026

Everest 2026: Khumbu Icefall Bypass-Real or a Dream?

Mostly, local Nepalese media are promoting a new route bypassing the infamous Khumbu Icefall, claiming it to be shorter, faster, and safer, retracing the original path used by the British 1953 expedition that accomplished the first Everest…

Autumn 2025: Deadly Season Across the Himalaya The 2025 Himalayan Autumn climbing has been a deadly one with multiple deaths across several mountains. Similarly, several events occurred in the Alps, taking five lives. Authorities had warned strongly about heavy snow in the Himalaya and advised climbers and trekkers to pause all activity for a few days.

Autumn 2025: Deadly Season Across the Himalaya

The 2025 Himalayan Autumn climbing has been a deadly one with multiple deaths across several mountains. Similarly, several events occurred in the Alps, taking five lives. Authorities had warned strongly about heavy snow in the Himalaya and advised…

Autumn 2025: Dire Weather for Himalays Ahead, Everest NF Ski Descent Film Teaser Authorities and meteorologists are issuing dire warnings for climbers and trekkers in Nepal's Himalayas. Seizing the opportunity to pre-market the documentary of Jim Morrison's legendary ski descent down Everest's North Face, National Geographic released a short teaser revealing the scale and courage it took to complete this feat. A Russian team opens a new route on Manaslu. The recent heavy snowfall across both sides of Everest created a host of false and poorly written and researched articles about "stranded climbers on Everest." The only climbers on Everest were the NatGeo ski team and they were never stranded. Many teams of seasonal trekkers were stranded in Tibet's Kama (or Karma) Valley, east of Mount Everest, but all were rescued by local villagers and SARs teams. Bottom line is there was drama but nothing to get seriously worked up over. As the Himalayan season winds down climbing action picks up on Puncak Jaya or Carstensz Pyramid on the island of New Guinea, Kilimanjaro, Antartica's Vinson Massif and around the New Years, Argentina's Aconcagua.

Autumn 2025: Dire Weather for Himalays Ahead, Everest NF Ski Descent Film Teaser

Authorities and meteorologists are issuing dire warnings for climbers and trekkers in Nepal's Himalayas. Seizing the opportunity to pre-market the documentary of Jim Morrison's legendary ski descent down Everest's…

Autumn 2025: Everest NF Ski Descent, Everest Legend Death and More | The Blog on alanarnette.com While teams summited Cho Oyu, the world's sixth-highest peak, a fifty-year-old American skied down the North Face of Mt. Everest. An Everest 1953 legend has passed away. The recent heavy snowfall acro...

While teams summited Cho Oyu, a fifty-year-old American skied down the North Face of Mt. Everest. An Everest 1953 legend has passed away.

Next up is Carstensz Pyramid, Kilimanjaro, Antartica's Vinson Massif and around the New Years, Argentina's Aconcagua.

www.alanarnette.com/blog/2025/10...

Podcast with Peter Hillary New Zealander Peter Hillary needs no introduction, as his last name recalls the historic achievement of his father, Sir Edmund Hillary, who, along with Tenzing Norgay, first summited Mt. Everest on May 29, 1953.  An adventurer in his own right, Peter has undertaken over 40 expeditions and adventures that most of us only dream of. He's been to the North and South Poles, summited Everest twice, jet-boated the entire length of the Ganges River, and more. He's also an accomplished author, speaker and adventure guide company operator. I first met Peter at Everest Base Camp in 2003 and again last month here in Colorado, where I thoroughly enjoyed one of his legendary talks. In this podcast, we discuss Peter's relationship with his father, his upbringing, adventures, and the future of mountaineering. We also discuss the Himalayan Trust, a foundation started by his father in 1961 that continues today, building schools, infrastructure, roads, and more throughout Nepal, a country close to Peter's heart.

Podcast with Peter Hillary

New Zealander Peter Hillary needs no introduction, as his last name recalls the historic achievement of his father, Sir Edmund Hillary, who, along with Tenzing Norgay, first summited Mt. Everest on May 29, 1953.  An adventurer in his own right, Peter has undertaken over…

Autumn 2025: Stranded Tourists, Manaslu Summits and More With excellent weather and hordes of climbers with massive support, records are being broken across the Himalayas. First, there was a no O's ski descent from Everest's summit, then multiple speed and the youngest summits on Manaslu. Climbing continues across the 8000ers. So far, 457 climbers from 47 expedition teams—including 347 men and 110 women—have received permits. On Manaslu, at least 170 members were supported by 187 Sherpas, totalling 357 summits, with more to come.

Autumn 2025: Stranded Tourists, Manaslu Summits and More

With excellent weather and hordes of climbers with massive support, records are being broken across the Himalayas. First, there was a no O's ski descent from Everest's summit, then multiple speed and the youngest summits on Manaslu. Climbing…

Everest 2025 Podcast with Bianaca and Paul Adler Australians Bianca Alder, 17, and her dad, Paul Alder, 50, are back in Melbourne, Australia, after their recent Everest attempt. They were thwarted by strong winds and illness, but made a valuable attempt. Bianca's social posts have gone viral as she struggled to breathe upon returning to Camp 4 at the South Col after reaching 8163 meters on the 8848-meter peak. She climbed with Rinji Sherpa of the Makalu region. This podcast discusses Paul's Everest attempt and summit, Bianca's Ama Dablam attempt and summit and of course, Everest with the risks, decision-making, and emotions. I think you'll enjoy meeting this young lady, who, by the way, has become friends with Ryan Mitchell. The two give me a lot of hope for the sport I love, seeing two very mature young people embracing mountaineering. #everest2025

Everest 2025 Podcast with Bianaca and Paul Adler

Australians Bianca Alder, 17, and her dad, Paul Alder, 50, are back in Melbourne, Australia, after their recent Everest attempt. They were thwarted by strong winds and illness, but made a valuable attempt. Bianca's social posts have gone viral as…

Autumn 2025: Everest Ski Descent and Manaslu Records With excellent weather and hordes of climbers with massive support, records are being broken across the Himalayas. First, there was a no O's ski descent from Everest's summit, then multiple speed and the youngest summits on Manaslu. Climbing continues across the 8000ers. So far, 457 climbers from 47 expedition teams—including 347 men and 110 women—have received permits. On Manaslu, at least 170 members were supported by 187 Sherpas, totalling 357 summits, with more to come.

Autumn 2025: Everest Ski Descent and Manaslu Records

With excellent weather and hordes of climbers with massive support, records are being broken across the Himalayas. First, there was a no O's ski descent from Everest's summit, then multiple speed and the youngest summits on Manaslu. Climbing…

World Alzheimer’s Day, September 21, 2025:

• Alzheimer’s is not a normal part of aging and can also occur in people as young as their 40s or 50s (“early-onset Alzheimer’s”).

• There is currently no cure; treatment focuses on symptom management and improving quality of life.

Autumn 2025: Nepal Unrest as Climbing Begins The Autumn Himalayan season is well underway with minimal impact from the violence and protest that occurred in mid-September in Kathmandu.

Autumn 2025: Nepal Unrest as Climbing Begins

The Autumn Himalayan season is well underway with minimal impact from the violence and protest that occurred in mid-September in Kathmandu.

K2 Podcast with Ryan Mitchell–After K2

Ryan Mitchell, a Summit Coach client, is back from his recent K2 attempt. They were thwarted by a deadly rockfall that killed two other people on other teams. They climbed to Camp 1 to see the conditions firsthand and abandoned their expedition. However, they…

Everest just became more expensive and unattractive to some On September 1, 2025, several new rules were enacted for mountaineering in Nepal. The most significant change was increased permit fees for Nepal's most popular peaks. The rest of the rules seem like window dressing or distractions designed to mitigate any negative press around the price increase. The Nepal Ministry of Tourism has effectively used this strategy for years. One proposed rule being marketed by Nepal guides and promoted throughout the press, Nepal and worldwide, is that all Everest permit applicants must have climbed a 7000-meter peak in Nepal. This rule has NOT yet been approved. You can follow its current status at this link, which is listed as "Discussion in Committee" as of September 3, 2025.

Everest just became more expensive and unattractive to some

On September 1, 2025, several new rules were enacted for mountaineering in Nepal. The most significant change was increased permit fees for Nepal's most popular peaks. The rest of the rules seem like window dressing or distractions…

2025 Everest Trends with Steve House, Alan Arnette, Martin Zhor Aerobic training, not fasted training, in the primary driver of improving fat use as fuel during endurance training. We also discuss risks of fasted training and LCHF diets, stressing balanced fueling...

Had a great time with Steve House and Martin Zhor discussing the 2025 Everest season on the Uphill Athlete Podcast. We talked about drones, rescues, training, preparation and of course, xenon!

uphillathlete.com/podcast/2025...