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Automation: Weaving Success With global buyers placing greater emphasis on speed, traceability, and sustainability, automation has shifted from being a choice to a necessity. Divya Shetty analyses the readiness of companies in adopting automation. In the heart of India’s textile industry, machines are not just humming—they’re thinking, learning, and transforming production floors. Automation is rapidly redefining the contours of the textile and apparel industry, emerging as a cornerstone of competitiveness, sustainability, and workforce transformation. Companies are increasingly turning to automation not only to enhance productivity and precision but also to meet the rising global demand for cost-efficient, high-quality products. By integrating smart machinery and digital tools across textile manufacturing, garmenting, knitting, dyeing, and packaging, businesses are streamlining processes, reducing human error, and ensuring consistent quality standards aligned with international benchmarks. Equally significant is the sustainability advantage. Automated dyeing and finishing, for instance, minimise water and chemical use, lowering environmental impact while improving resource efficiency. Meanwhile, workforce transformation is unfolding as repetitive, labour-intensive tasks give way to technology-driven roles, necessitating upskilling and fostering new career opportunities in machine handling, data analysis, and process optimisation. In this evolving landscape, automation is not just a choice but a decisive factor shaping the industry’s future. Driving the shift to automation Automation in India’s textile industry is being driven by rising global demand for cost competitiveness, the need for consistent quality, and sustainability imperatives. Smart machinery, robotics, and digital solutions are increasingly adopted to reduce manual errors, improve efficiency, and conserve resources. Growing emphasis on waterless dyeing, energy-efficient operations, and compliance with international standards is further accelerating the industry’s shift towards automation-led transformation. According to Ajay Patodia, CFO, Dollar Industries, “The most notable automation advancements in his company has occurred in knitting, dyeing, cutting, and packaging. This transition was fuelled by the need for greater precision, faster turnaround times, and consistent product quality. Increasing consumer expectations and the demand for compliance with international standards also played a major role. To stay competitive in the fast-evolving hosiery and innerwear market, we recognised the need to modernise our manufacturing processes and build a more agile, future-ready infrastructure.” In India, the garment sector has quickly adopted automation, not only in quality control but also across several other segments. “Over the last few years, we’ve integrated automation in weaving, dyeing, and quality control processes. The shift was driven by two key needs—maintaining consistent product quality across large orders and meeting shorter delivery timelines for domestic and international clients. This also helps us handle complex designs with precision that manual processes could take far longer to achieve of,” adds, Vishal Pacheriwal, Director of Parnika India. Table 1: Key innovations and players Source: Texpertise Network (Messe Frankfurt) At Madame, we’ve seen the most significant automation in cutting, stitching assistance, fabric finishing, and inventory management. The shift was driven by the need for precision, speed, and consistency – particularly as fashion cycles shorten and customer expectations for quality and timely delivery rise. Automation has allowed us to reduce manual errors, optimise fabric utilisation, and streamline the overall production workflow,” adds Akhil Jain, CEO and MD, MADAME. Automation also enables better monitoring and control, helping us track and reduce waste, optimise resource utilisation, and move toward circular production models. Ajay Patodia, CFO, Dollar Industries Efficiency and market edge With the adoption of automation, the gains have been significant. By integrating automation into the production workflows, the companies have increased throughput and minimised manual errors, which previously impacted both quality and timelines. According to Kapil Pathare, Deputy Managing Director, VIP Clothing, “One of the key benefits has been the improved accuracy in production planning. With systems that are digitally connected, we now have better visibility into inventory, raw material usage, and production timelines. This enables proactive decision-making and tighter control over production costs. In a competitive and price-sensitive market like ours, such efficiency is vital; it allows us to retain cost leadership without compromising on the product.” In dyeing and finishing, automated systems have improved colour consistency and reduced wastage. “Similarly, automated cutting machines have streamlined fabric utilisation. These improvements have not only reduced per-unit production costs but have also enabled us to meet market demands more quickly, which is critical in a fast-moving consumer segment like ours,” opines Patodia. Some government initiatives for MSMEs and textile modernisation have been helpful, but the textile sector still needs more accessible financing for high-tech machinery. Subsidies or low-interest loans for automation adoption could accelerate India’s position as a global textile leader.. Vishal Pacheriwal, Director of Parnika India Automation has enabled to increase output without compromising craftsmanship. “For example, the time to produce certain intricate fabrics has been cut by almost 30 per cent, which means we can offer competitive pricing while still delivering premium quality. It also reduces wastage in raw materials, making every meter count,” informs Pacheriwal. Automation also supports flexible manufacturing, which helps the company switch between product variants quickly. This agility is crucial, especially in an environment where fashion trends change rapidly and customer demands are more dynamic than ever. The ability to scale up or down efficiently helps us stays ahead of the curve. Automation has been a game-changer in terms of efficiency and scalability. Real-time monitoring tools have minimised machine downtime, while automated warehousing and inventory processes have accelerated fulfillment. Together, these improvements have enhanced cost-effectiveness, enabling companies to stay competitive without compromising on quality. The human side of automation Automation in the garment and textile manufacturing industry is often perceived as a threat to jobs, but in reality, it is transforming the workforce by driving upskilling rather than minimising employment. With the introduction of advanced technologies such as automated cutting, stitching, dyeing, and quality control systems, the demand for traditional manual roles may be declining, but new opportunities are emerging for workers to operate, maintain, and optimise these machines. Workers are being trained in digital monitoring, data-driven decision-making, and advanced production management, which enhance their technical expertise and employability. Far from reducing workforce participation, automation is fostering a shift towards higher-value roles that require problem-solving, creativity, and technical knowledge. This evolution enables employees to contribute to greater efficiency, sustainability, and product innovation. By upskilling the workforce, the industry is not only safeguarding jobs but also ensuring long-term competitiveness in global markets, where technology and skilled manpower go hand in hand. One of the concerns is the adaptability of automation in diverse fabric types and processes, since fashion manufacturing involves frequent style changes and smaller batch runs compared to large-scale commodity textiles.. Akhil Jain, CEO and MD, MADAME Our company sees automation not as a replacement for our people, but as an enabler for higher productivity and innovation. We are conducting skill-gap analyses across departments to identify emerging competencies required in automated manufacturing, supply chain digitisation, and data-driven decision-making. Our in-house and external training programs focus on areas like machine interface operation, quality analytics, and digital maintenance. We maintain transparent communication with our teams, involve them in automation planning, and recognise early adopters. Cross-functional workshops and pilot projects ensure employees gain practical experience with new systems before full-scale rollout. By combining technology adoption with continuous human development, we are building a workforce that is future-ready while preserving our company’s core values and craftsmanship,” noted Patodia. Pacheriwal also sees automation not as a replacement but as an enabler for his workforce. His team undergoes continuous training—both in operating modern machinery and in advanced design and quality control techniques. This allows traditional artisans to adapt to technology while still contributing their unique skills to the final product. “We firmly believe that automation should empower people and not replace them. In our organisation, we are taking a proactive, people-first approach to this transition. Our existing workforce is one of our most valuable assets, and we are committed to helping them grow alongside the technology. We have implemented structured training programs to upskill our employees across functions. From operating and maintaining automated machines to interpreting data dashboards and quality metrics, we’re equipping our people with the knowledge and tools they need to thrive in a digital-first environment. Many workers who previously did manual stitching or inspection tasks are now taking on more supervisory or quality assurance roles. This shift not only enhances productivity but also improves employee morale and career prospects,” states Pathare. Jain firmly believes automation does not replace people – it transforms roles. His company is investing in training programs, digital literacy workshops, and skill-building modules to ensure our workforce adapts to advanced technologies. Roles are shifting from manual labour to machine supervision, data monitoring, and quality assurance, giving employees opportunities to work in safer, higher-value tasks while ensuring job security and growth. Challenges on the journey Although the advantages of automation are evident, implementing it at scale presents its own challenges. The biggest obstacle lies in the significant capital investment it demands, especially for mid-sized companies like ours. Procuring advanced machinery, smart software, and seamless system integration requires substantial funding, which must be carefully balanced against other operational priorities. Another obstacle is ensuring compatibility with long-standing legacy systems. With decades of operations behind us and many workers who have been part of the journey since the beginning, several processes were originally built around manual execution. Introducing automation into such established workflows demands significant customisation and thoughtful change management. “Innerwear manufacturing isn’t one-size-fits-all. Different fabric types, garment styles, and finishing details require highly tailored automation solutions—not off-the-shelf products. This calls for collaborative problem-solving with equipment providers and sometimes even co-developing new solutions” tells Pathare. A stronger ecosystem that fosters collaboration between Original Equipment Manufacturers, textile technology innovators, and garment manufacturers will help accelerate this transition. Kapil Pathare, Deputy Managing Director, VIP Clothing The availability of skilled technical talent—whether machine operators, maintenance specialists, or automation engineers—is a pressing issue. The industry needs a more robust talent pipeline to support this technological evolution. “The biggest challenges that we faced was adaption of new automation process by our workforce. While automation increases productivity, ensuring our workforce is equipped to operate, monitor, and maintain advanced systems is a continuous challenge, especially for employees transitioning from traditional processes,” informs Patodia. Companies that specialise in intricate designs such as handloom and embroidery often struggle to adopt automation, as it fails to capture the authenticity and finesse of traditional craftsmanship. Pacheriwala says, “The primary challenge is balancing scale with the authenticity of handcrafted ethnic wear. Certain processes, like embroidery or finishing touches, still require human artistry. Additionally, high-capital investment in advanced machinery means we have to plan expansion in phases to maintain financial stability.” Table 2: Government policies supporting automation in the Indian textile industry Funding the future With global buyers placing greater emphasis on speed, traceability, and sustainability, automation has shifted from being a choice to a necessity. Nations capable of delivering high-quality textiles at scale, with reliable lead times and reduced waste, are set to gain a competitive edge in the global market. According to Pacheriwal, “While India is known for its heritage and craftsmanship, the global market demands both speed and consistency. Automation, when integrated thoughtfully, will help Indian textile players like us compete not just on design but also on delivery timelines, quality assurance, and cost efficiency.” Patodia also thinks that automation will be a key driver of India’s competitiveness in the global textile value chain. It can help bridge quality gaps, ensure faster delivery, and meet global sustainability and compliance standards. Embracing automation is no longer a choice but a necessity to stay relevant in export markets and to support the vision of ‘Make in India’ with world-class manufacturing. Jain concludes by saying, “As global buyers increasingly demand faster lead times, transparent supply chains, and sustainable production, automation-enabled efficiency, traceability, and quality assurance will play a defining role. If India scales automation wisely, balancing cost with innovation, the country can strengthen its position as a value-driven global textile hub over the next decade.” Automation not only helps in achieving international quality standards but also supports ambitions for export growth. By reducing dependency on manual processes completely, we can streamline operations, shorten lead times, decrease product rejections rates, and increase consistency—making us more attractive partners for global retailers and consumers. The post Automation: Weaving Success appeared first on Indian Textile Journal.

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Future on the Hanger Today, the Indian garment industry hangs like a garment on a hanger-balanced between uncertainty and possibility. Divya Shetty explores how by identifying and seizing the right opportunities, India can not only stay ahead in the global race but also redefine its role as a leader in the world of apparel India’s garment industry is currently navigating a turbulent environment with notable resilience. Export performance is showing signs of steady recovery, supported by a 7 per cent increase in textile and apparel shipments between April and October of FY 2024–25. This growth is largely fuelled by strong contributions from ready-made garments (RMG) and man-made fabrics. India continues to be amongst the top five textile exporter and commanding around 4 per cent of global market share (see Table 1). However, the industry is grappling with a range of complex challenges, including global trade uncertainty reflected in fluctuating shipping costs, inconsistent import duties, and evolving tariff structures. Suketu Shah, CEO, Vishal Fabrics, says, “While US tariffs on competitors like Bangladesh and Vietnam may benefit India, they also introduce volatility in sourcing and pricing. Meanwhile, domestic policy changes such as cotton MSP hikes are raising raw material costs, compelling manufacturers to lobby for import duty relief to stay competitive. On the global front, the India–UK FTA promises duty-free access for Indian apparel and textiles, potentially boosting exports to the UK by 30–45 per cent but the gains depend on smooth implementation and regulatory hygiene .” Table 1: Trade Statistics April-May 2025 This volatility has shifted manufacturing pressures onto cost structures and working capital.  According to Naveen Sainani, Founder and Chairman, Fritz Gaitri Clothing Co, “The market is largely MSME-based and primarily dependent on the domestic sector, which focuses heavily on high-street retail and local brands. However, with the rapid expansion of organised retail — especially brands like Zudio and others across Tier 1, 2, and 3 cities — competition has intensified. This has resulted in reduced footfall for high-street shops. On the other hand, many manufacturers are shifting to FOB (Free on Board) and private label business models, but these also operate on very thin margins. So overall, it’s a tough time for Indian garment manufacturers, both in the domestic and private label segments.” In domestic market, factors like labour shortages and inability to innovate and adapt are also one of the main obstacle in growth. As compared to domestic market, international market is still performing better. However, geopolitical factors have made exporters more cautious.  Here are a few factors that have made the export situation more challenging. Global trade uncertainty, manifested through fluctuating shipping costs, variable import duties, and shifting tariff regimes, has shifted manufacturing pressures onto cost structures and working capital. Suketu Shah, CEO, Vishal Fabrics Logistics in limbo India’s garment export market is currently treading through a phase of uncertainty, with stakeholders adopting a wait-and-watch approach. While the industry has weathered many storms in the past, the current environment feels particularly unpredictable. It is imperative that India negotiates trade terms that offer a level playing field. Additionally, exporters must closely monitor policy developments and diversify product offerings to stay competitive amidst any tariff realignment. Dr Mukesh Kansal, Chairman, CTA Apparels Bangladesh border blues: The India–Bangladesh trade relationship is in turmoil following a series of reciprocal restrictions. Bangladesh has suspended key imports like cotton yarn via land ports, prompting India to ban Bangladeshi RMG and jute through the same routes. Exports are now funnelled only via specific seaports, disrupting supply chains and escalating tensions. Rahul Mehta, Chief Mentor, CMAI, further highlights this uncertainty by stating, “At present, there isn’t any significant disruption. However, some major Indian brands and retailers that were previously sourcing from Bangladesh are now shifting part of their orders to Indian suppliers. This shift is primarily due to two reasons; With the latest restrictions, importing from Bangladesh has become approximately 4–5 per cent more expensive.    The lead time has increased by 8–10 days, which affects delivery schedules. As a result, many buyers are choosing to divert some of their sourcing to domestic vendors. India has restricted apparel imports from Bangladesh to only pass through southern ports, whereas earlier, shipments arrived via Kolkata, which was logistically cheaper. This new routing adds to transportation costs. Additionally, Bangladesh’s domestic manufacturing costs are steadily rising due to increasing minimum wages and other operational costs. Although it still remains cheaper than India, the gap is narrowing. Many manufacturers are shifting to FOB (Free on Board) and private label business models, but these also operate on very thin margins. So overall, it’s a tough time for Indian garment manufacturers, both in the domestic and private label segments. Naveen Sainani, Founder and Chairman, Fritz Gaitri Clothing Co Bangladesh has also faced allegations of re-exporting Chinese fabrics to India at lower prices. Sainani quotes, “There has been strong opposition to the duty-free import of garments from Bangladesh, which are largely made using Chinese fabrics and accessories. Bangladesh, which does not produce its own yarn or fabric, imports these materials — mainly from China — and then re-exports them as finished garments. These finished products are entering India duty-free, putting Indian manufacturers at a disadvantage.” Tariff tremors from the US: India’s garment industry is facing a wave of turbulence in the wake of revised US tariff rates. Exporters are grappling with mounting uncertainty, prompting strategic reassessment across production, pricing, and market outreach. As strategies evolve, the sector braces itself for potential disruption and reorganizes to safeguard its hard-won export resilience. Dr Mukesh Kansal, Chairman, CTA Apparels, views the situation with a mix of optimism and concern, as he remarks “The revised US tariff structures pose both opportunities and challenges. On one hand, any reduction in duties for Indian products can be a major booster for our exports to the United States, which remains our largest apparel market. On the other hand, if preferential tariffs are extended to competing nations without reciprocal benefits for India, we risk losing market share. It is imperative that India negotiates trade terms that offer a level playing field. Additionally, exporters must closely monitor policy developments and diversify product offerings to stay competitive amidst any tariff realignment.” In real terms, this affects our pricing strategy, inventory planning, and cash flow cycles. To adapt, the companies are exploring diversified markets, negotiating longer-term contracts with customers, and engaging with the government to fast-track tariff relief. Ultimately, the current environment demands both agile execution and close policymaker engagement. Shah explains, “As the head of a textile firm, I see the US revising its tariff structure as both a challenge and a strategic pivot point. The current 26 per cent reciprocal tariff on Indian textile imports significantly raises our landed costs. That spells immediate pressure on margins, either we absorb some of the burden, or we pass it on, risking US order volumes. Yet, these higher tariffs also lean in our favour compared to rival exporters- while we face 26 per cent, competitors like Vietnam (46 per cent), Bangladesh (37 per cent), and China (34 per cent) are hit harder. Clients in the US are starting to shift orders from those destinations to India, and our textile stocks even saw an uptick immediately after the announcement. However, uncertainty remains high. The US has paused the implementation of higher duties, and a narrow “mini-deal” with India could be reached by the end of July that may reduce our trade friction to under 20 per cent.” Impact of India-UK FTA: The UK–India Free Trade Agreement (FTA) represents a significant milestone for India’s garment industry. With the removal of tariffs ranging from 12–16 per cent on apparel exports to the UK, nearly all Indian garments will gain duty-free access—on par with competitors like Bangladesh and Vietnam. This is expected to drive a 30–50 per cent surge in exports to the UK over the next five years. The agreement presents a major opportunity for India’s key textile hubs, which are heavily SME-driven and provide employment to millions. Reduced duties will enhance the price competitiveness of Indian products, allowing exporters to improve profit margins or offer more competitive pricing. However, the agreement must clear Parliament in both countries, implementation could be delayed by up to a year. Exporters must also meet rules-of-origin and quality standards, and ensure compliance with UK regulations reopening trade channels. “Longer term, the FTA supports India’s ambition to double its trade with the UK to US $100–120 billion by 2030. The garment industry stands to gain on employment, investment, and global integration, provided it modernises production, strengthens compliance infrastructure, and prepares itself for a ramp-up in volume and quality standards in a competitive UK market,” comments Shah. Duty-free or reduced-duty access, especially compared to competitors like Bangladesh, China, Vietnam, and Cambodia, would offer Indian exporters a huge advantage. Rahul Mehta, Chief Mentor, CMAI Sainani also feels that the India-UK Free Trade Agreement will be a very positive move and is expected to benefit the Indian garment industry significantly, particularly in enhancing regional trade and competitiveness. According to Kansal, “The European Union and the United Kingdom stand out as promising alternatives. These markets offer transparent trade regimes and are placing heightened emphasis on sustainability, ethical sourcing, and compliance. Their structured and predictable procurement models, coupled with a growing demand for high-value products, make them compelling destinations for both risk diversification and long-term growth.” Beyond the commercial upside, the FTA is expected to generate employment, foster domestic value addition, and promote the adoption of sustainable and ethically aligned manufacturing practices in line with international benchmarks While the UK is not as large a market as the US or EU for Indian garments, it’s still a significant importer. Previously, countries like Bangladesh had a competitive edge in the UK market. Now, with the FTA, Indian exporters can compete more effectively. As for UK garments entering India, those are typically high-end products and unlikely to pose serious competition to domestic players. Eyeing India-US FTA: While discussions of India-US FTA have intensified in 2025—with multiple rounds of talks completed and a roadmap outlined by both governments—a full-fledged FTA remains under negotiation. An interim trade deal was expected, but recent reports suggest delays due to disagreements on tariff structures, labour standards, and digital trade rules. Both sides remain engaged, aiming for a mutually beneficial agreement, though the timeline for a formal FTA remains uncertain. But the industry is truly looking forward for this FTA as it can drastically change the landscape of Indian garment industry. Mehta explains, “If implemented, an India-US FTA would be a true game changer. Currently, the US accounts for 30–35 per cent of India’s total apparel exports. Duty-free or reduced-duty access, especially compared to competitors like Bangladesh, China, Vietnam, and Cambodia, would offer Indian exporters a huge advantage. Even MSMEs would benefit, as many exporters source their goods from them. Moreover, MSMEs that meet compliance standards could directly export to the US as well.” Kansal, on the other hand, points out that these on-going discussions are affecting the logistics of garment movement. He says, “The on-going ambiguity surrounding the India–US Free Trade Agreement is beginning to cast a shadow over India’s apparel export landscape. In the absence of a clear and consistent policy framework, global buyers are growing increasingly cautious. This hesitancy is translating into deferred commitments, shorter procurement cycles, and tighter lead times, making it harder for Indian exporters to remain price-competitive, especially against peers in nations with established trade agreements with the United States.” The domestic drag Growth has slowed. While the sector is still expanding, the expected pace hasn’t materialised. Consumers are increasingly moving toward value-for-money products, and even premium brands are resorting to discounts and aggressive promotions to stay competitive. This trend has led to a dip in realisations and margins. Here are a few factors that are impacting the domestic market; * Rising input costs: Fluctuating prices of raw materials like cotton and man-made fibres are squeezing profit margins. * Labour shortages: Key garment hubs such as Tiruppur and Ludhiana are facing a lack of skilled workers due to migration and demand-supply gaps. * Infrastructure bottlenecks: Inadequate logistics, transportation delays, and limited warehousing capacity increase production costs and lead times. * Limited access to finance: Many SMEs, which dominate the industry, struggle with working capital and access to credit, despite supportive schemes. * Policy and compliance challenges: Frequent changes in GST, quality control orders, and regulatory norms create uncertainty and increase compliance burden. * Changing consumer preferences: The rise in demand for sustainable and fast fashion is forcing manufacturers to innovate quickly, often at higher costs. * Digital and tech adaptation: Although many players are embracing automation and digitalisation, smaller units find it difficult to invest in new technology. * Impact on competitiveness: These domestic hurdles limit the industry’s ability to compete globally and make the most of emerging export opportunities. Future-proofing the industry To boost garment exports in today’s global trade scenario, we need a clear, multi-pronged approach. “First, simplify incentives like RoDTEP and RoSCTL, ensure these schemes are transparent, easily accessible, and linked to quick real-world benefits for exporters rather than complex paperwork. Second, to accelerate Free Trade Agreements, both the UK‑India and approaching US negotiations must be turned into firm reorder advantages by eliminating tariffs at the earliest. Tariff-free access will directly translate into improved order flow and pricing power. Third, investing in cluster-based infrastructure improvements, upgraded common facility centres, logistics hubs, and cold chains near garment clusters will reduce lead times and shipping costs. That builds a factory-ready ecosystem. Fourth, support technology adoption among SMEs, offer rebates for automation, compliance tools, and digital platforms so smaller units can meet global standards in quality and delivery,” concludes Shah. Measures such as strengthening trade diplomacy, leveraging Indian Missions for real-time market intelligence, addressing sudden non-tariff barriers, and facilitating dispute resolution for exporters can significantly streamline export processes. Combined with enhanced export incentives, effective FTAs, improved infrastructure, SME support, and proactive international engagement, these steps can position India’s garment industry for sustained global growth. Sainani also suggests that the government needs to focus on developing micro-clusters rather than only large-scale projects. While initiatives like the PLI scheme for investments above Rs 1 billion are welcome, about 95 per cent of Indian garment manufacturers fall under the MSME category. A targeted approach with policies, subsidies, and compliance support for MSMEs will go a long way in enhancing their capabilities, especially in exports. Empowering the MSME sector is critical for the overall growth of the Indian garment industry. Mehta expresses confidence in the future of the Indian garment industry, stating that, “The long-term future remains bright. India has a growing, young population, rising urbanisation, and a robust GDP growth trajectory. However, businesses will need to evolve. Models must shift, and companies must adapt to changing market dynamics. Those who fail to keep up may struggle, but the industry as a whole is poised for sustained growth.” The Indian garment industry stands at a promising juncture, with several opportunities ready to be tapped. With its vast workforce, strong manufacturing base, and growing global reputation for quality, India has the potential to become a global apparel hub. Rising demand for sustainable fashion, shifting sourcing preferences from global buyers, and ongoing trade negotiations like FTAs present a golden window. By investing in innovation, upskilling labour, adopting green technologies, and improving ease of doing business, the industry can unlock higher growth. Enhanced collaboration between government and industry stakeholders will further pave the way for a resilient ecosystem.  Today, the industry hangs like a garment on a hanger—balanced between uncertainty and possibility. By identifying and seizing the right opportunities, India can not only stay ahead in the global race but also redefine its role as a leader in the world of apparel. The post Future on the Hanger appeared first on Indian Textile Journal.

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How sewing and handloom are driving conscious consumerism Let’s be honest, the weekly fashion drops, changing trends, and “colours of the season” tempt all of us to yearn for a wardrobe makeover. Fast fashion moves at breakneck speed, with racks refilling every week—clothes designed to be worn just a few times before ending up at the back of a closet, or worse, in a landfill. The price tags may be low, but the environmental costs are staggering. Globally, the fashion industry produces more than 80 billion garments annually, with consumers in countries like the US buying 60 per cent more clothing than in 2000, while keeping each piece for only half as long. This throwaway culture fuels an industry responsible for 10 per cent of global carbon emissions—more than the aviation and shipping industries combined. The environmental fallout doesn’t stop there. The industry heavily drains water sources and pollutes rivers. Even laundering clothes releases 500,000 tonne of microfibres into the ocean each year—the equivalent of 50 billion plastic bottles. Dyeing and finishing account for 36 per cent of the industry’s pollution, followed by yarn preparation (28 per cent) and fibre production (15 per cent). Cotton farming, particularly, hits freshwater supplies hardest, with fossil-fuel-heavy production processes exacerbating resource depletion. If nothing changes, textile manufacturing emissions are projected to rise by 60 per cent by 2030, according to the United Nations. Against this backdrop, a countermovement has been gaining momentum: slow fashion. Built on the philosophy of buying less, choosing well, and making garments last, slow fashion values quality craftsmanship and timeless design over disposable trends. It promotes fair wages, artisan dignity, and transparent, sustainable supply chains, while minimising waste through small-batch, intentional production Stitching a revolution For centuries, sewing was a survival skill. A tear meant repair, and fabric scraps became opportunities. Clothing wasn’t just worn; it was cherished, reimagined, and passed down through generations. Today, sewing is experiencing a renaissance—not only as a method of repair but also as a medium for creative self-expression.  From subtle alterations to full-blown redesigns, sewing empowers individuals to personalise and extend the life of their garments, keeping textiles out of landfills. Designers are also embracing upcycling in a big way. According to data, 31 percent of fashion brands now incorporate textile waste into new collections.[i] At the consumer level, upcycling merges creativity with sustainability and it’s a chance to experiment with personal style while cutting waste. It also makes fashion feel more personal as each piece carries its own story, shaped by the hands that reimagined it. Sewing is also emerging as a pathway to independence. Across communities, especially among women and rural artisans, home-based creators are turning their skills into viable businesses — offering custom clothing, teaching workshops, and building niche brands. Sewing doesn’t just foster income; it nurtures autonomy and strengthens local economies. While sewing puts creative power directly in the hands of individuals, handloom weaving sustains entire communities of traditional artisans. It’s slow fashion at a community scale, where every meter of fabric is made without the heavy machinery, synthetic fibres, or mass-production waste that define fast fashion. The process is human-paced, resource-light, and inherently sustainable. It is one of humanity’s oldest crafts, and in the slow fashion era, it showcases how heritage and sustainability can work hand in hand. Take Gujarat’s Kutch region: the cultivation of kala cotton, a native, organic, drought-resistant variety, has staged a remarkable comeback. Not only are weavers now generating impressive monthly revenues, but their wages have quadrupled. These crafts do more than just produce beautiful fabrics. They protect cultural identity, supports dignified livelihoods, and preserve traditional skills that industrialization continues to threaten. The shift in consumer preferences Slow fashion’s rise isn’t just an artisan movement—it’s a consumer revolution. Valued at $9.52 billion in 2024, the global slow fashion market is projected to reach $46.70 billion by 2032, growing at a striking 22 per cent annually. Part of this growth is driven by technology like blockchain, which provides supply chain transparency, and by the increasing popularity of upcycling. Gen Z, in particular, is leading the shift. Numerous surveys indicate that younger consumers prefer low-impact clothing, with many avoiding brands that lack sustainability credentials. They’re willing to pay more for eco-conscious products—but they’re also smart, turning to second-hand and vintage clothing to merge values with affordability. Once seen as niche, resale fashion has become a dominant force. In 2024, the global second-hand clothing market grew by 15 per cent to reach $227 billion—accounting for nearly 9 per cent of all global fashion sales. Among younger shoppers, it’s even more mainstream: 68 per cent of under-30s bought second-hand in the past year, drawn by the promise of unique, sustainable style. Platforms like Depop, Vinted, and ThredUp are turning resale into a social experience, where each purchase comes with a story. The appeal of slow fashion for younger consumers goes beyond aesthetics and is a reflection of values. For many in Gen Z, fashion is about identity and responsibility. Still, the shift isn’t without tension as only 32 percent of global consumers consistently prioritize sustainability over affordability.[ii] The sweet spot lies in solutions that marry ethical production with accessibility, something sewing, handloom, and resale, all offer in different ways. Weaving a future-proof industry The beauty of slow fashion lies in its attainability. It doesn’t demand perfection. It might begin with mending a hem, sewing on a lost button, or choosing handloom over mass-produced polyester. Each action supports skilled artisans, reduces environmental stress, and adds a layer of meaning to what we wear. These small, intentional choices create ripple effects. Fewer purchases of better-quality garments reduce overproduction pressure. Supporting local weavers sustains cultural heritage. Choosing second-hand lessens the demand for virgin textiles. It’s change at a human pace—woven, stitched, and passed along. Fast fashion’s problems are real, but not irreversible. Sewing and handloom offer an alternative rooted in skill, culture, and care—a model that feels more relevant than ever in a world anxious about waste and climate change. When you wear a hand-stitched jacket or a handwoven scarf, you’re not just making a fashion statement. You’re wearing a story. A tradition. A quiet rebellion against disposable culture. So the next time you feel the pull of a trendy new purchase, pause. Imagine instead the rhythm of a loom or the precise movement of a needle in skilled hands threading life into cloth. That’s where real style begins—and where it lasts. About the author: The post How sewing and handloom are driving conscious consumerism appeared first on Indian Textile Journal.

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Innovative Braided Sutures for Surgery This study shows that knot untying happens at lower loads in the case of braids without braided core as compared to double braid suture. Sutures have been made from a wide  variety  of materials    including    surgical    catgut,    silk,    and polyolefin    such    as    polypropylene,    polyamides, polyesters, polyglycolic acid, glycolide-lactide copolymers,  etc.  Sutures intended for  the  orthopaedic surgery  have  to meet  many  requirements.  They must be  substantially  non-toxic,  capable  of  being  readily sterilized  and  have  good  tensile  strength,  acceptable knot-tying, excellent flexibility, smoothness and knot-holding  characteristics.  Although  on  an  industrial scale, only  suture  diameter  and  breaking  strength  are tested,  several     other     characteristics     must     be determined   to   assess   suture   performance.   Many testing procedures have been described in literature. Debbabi et al. proposed new methods  to  determine knot    slippage    ratio,    percentage    of    deformation recovery, knot pull and straight pull curves. But there is   no   official   standard   available   today   for   this purpose. The European Pharmacopoeia  (EP)  and  the United   States   Pharmacopoeia   (USP)   are   the   only references    for    suture    material. United States pharmacopeia gives requirement related to knot pull strength depending on diameter. The   first   study   undertaken   on   the   mechanical properties of suture threads was carried out in 1981by Chu et  al. on  different  types  of  sutures marketed. They analysed the    tensile behaviour of seven commonly  used  sutures.  The results  showed  that  the geometry of the suture has no significant effect on the elastic limit (yield point). They also showed that there is a small difference between the Young’s modulus of braided polyamide suture and that of mono filament1. Several    studies    have    been    performed    on    the mechanical  properties  of  suture  materials,  including the behaviour of  the  force-elongation  curve,  Young’s modulus,  rate  of  slippage,  strain  at maximum  force (deformation   %),   knotted   and   unknotted   suture strength, knot safety, work at break, stress relaxation, strength knotting, coefficient of friction, and flexibility. However, most of these studies  have  been limited  to  the  mechanical  characterization  of  a  few common commercial yarns on the market. Synthetic  sutures  are  available  in  the  market  as monofilament  or  braid  structure.  Synthetic braided sutures  are  obtained  by  using  a  circular  braiding machine. They    have    good    flexibility,    knot security    and    handling    proprieties    compared    to monofilaments.  However,  the  currently  available tubular   braided   sutures   exhibit   some   deficiencies. They  have  a  rough  surface  and  a  greater  tendency  to break.  They  tend  sometimes  to  be  compacted  and wiry and exhibit a memory shape behaviour such that at  the  time  of  use,  it  is  usually  necessary  for  the surgeon  or  assistant  personnel  to  flex  and  stretch  the suture  to  make  it  more  flexible.  Furthermore,  tubular braided  sutures  can  be  easily  compacted and  show a non-uniform  diameter  and  a  rough  surface.  To  solve these problems, braided sutures with cabled core have been  used.  Nevertheless,  these  sutures  have  shown  a non-uniform  rough  surface  and  a  greater  tendency  to break. In   literature,   the   information   about   effect   of manufacturing    conditions    on    sutures    and    knot proprieties  is  scanty.  Although  braiding  was  used long time ago for producing sutures, a few attempts to improve  the  properties  of  braided  suture  have  been conducted.  Indeed,  many  sutures  exhibit  failure  after implantation. Available data is limited to few analyses on  effect  of  manufacturing  conditions.  In  his  work, Rawalet  al. developed  tensile  analytical  models  of braided sutures to predict their stress–strain behaviour based   on   braid   geometry,   braid   kinematics   and constituent  monofilament  properties. The  model  has accounted  for  the  changes  in  the  braid  geometry, including braid angle, diameter and Poisson’s ratio. However,  proposed  model  is  limited  to  the  tensile strength  properties  and  do  not  consider  the  effect  of manufacturing  conditions  and  the  effect of  adding  a core. Kaplan et al.26and Chesterfield et al. presented the    tensile    strength    and    knot-pull    strength    of manufactured  sutures  as  function  of  manufacturing conditions.  However,  they  did  not  investigate  the reason  of  the  effect  of  the  chosen  parameters  on sutures   performances.   Debbabiet   al.,   designed   a model, predicting the effect of braiding conditions on suture tensile strength properties. Tubular braids can appear as a hollow tube or filled with  an  in  lay  structure  that  can  be fed  through  the centre of a tubular braiding machine. The inlay can be either  in  the  form  of  one  homogeneous  score  or  as multiple  strands  of  yarn.  If  the  inlay  itself  is  braided as  well,  it  becomes a  double braid  construction.  The use  of  an  inlay  keeps  the  tubular  braid  in  a  round shape,  thus  distributing  applied  loads  over  the  inlay. Consequently,  adding  core  to  braids  promotes  suture strength  and  non-compressibility  for  a  given  suture diameter,   thus   reducing   the   volume   of   the   voids therein. In their patent, Foersteret al. presented only the characteristics  of  the  double  braided  structures. They   do not analyse the   effect   of   manufacturing conditions  of double  braided  suture  on all tensile  and knot  pull strength.  In  their  study,  Saraswat et al. presented  an  analytical  model  to  predict  the  tensile behaviour of   multilayer   braided   structures.   Only a comparison was made between theoretical and experimental values of braid angle, toughness, and stress-strain   characteristics   of   multilayer   braided structures.   However,   knot   performances   of   these sutures  were  not  studied  in  detail,  and  hence  need  to be investigated to predict sutures behaviour after use. Thus,  there  is  a  lack  of  information  regarding  the effect   of   braiding   process   on   straight   and   knot performances of double braid sutures. For    this    reason,    the    main    purpose    of    this investigation   is   to   study   the   effect   of   braiding parameters   on  suture mechanical   performances   of double  layer  braided  suture.  The impact  of  adding  a braided  core  on distinctive  characteristics of  suture, such   as   tensile   strength,   knot   pull   strength,   knot efficiency    and    slippage    ratios,    has    also    been investigated. Technical details            Polyethylene   terephthalate   (PET)   multifilament yarns were used for sutures manufacturing. PET yarns were  selected  because  of  their  high  biocompatibility and high tenacity to develop suture for orthopedic   interventions.   Indeed, PET   material with  high  tenacity  is  often  used  to  obtain  suture behaviour adapted   to   the   applied   stress   during healing1.  The  used  yarns  consist  of  non-texturized PET polyester yarns with varying counts(49, 98, 147, and   196),   each   composed   of   different   filament numbers(6, 32, 48 and64)respectively. The following aspects have been considered. * Suture manufacturing * Tensile and knot performance Figure 1: Device for tensile and knot performance testing Influence of sheet and core parameters The effect  of  sheet  and  core  parameters  on  tensile and knot performances of the suture has been studied. It is found that  the  number  of  sheath  yarns  has some   relations with   overall   suture   diameter.   The increase  in  the  number  of  sheath  yarns  generally increases the sutured diameter. As already reported by Chesterfield et al., the   preferred   suture   can   be optionally  constructed  around  a  filamentous  core. The filaments comprising the core need not to be as fine as those comprising the sheath yarns. The increase in the number   of   yarns   constituting   the   braided   core significantly  leads  to  greater  overall  suture  diameter. Thus, the diameter of overall suture increases by adding braid core. Mechanical properties of non-knotted suture The load-elongation curves of the braided sutures made with 8, 12 and 16 sheet yarns without  a  braided  core.  It  is  observed  that  the maximum force at break is almost proportional to the number of sheet yarns.  For example,  the  value  of the straight pull strength of the suture made with16-sheet  yarn  is  twice  higher  than  that  of  the  suture made with8-sheetyarn. However, the deformation at the  breaking  forced  on  to  show  this  proportionality. As  a  consequence  of  the  increasing  number  of  sheet yarns,   the   braiding   angle   and   the   cover   factor increase.    Besides,    the    deformation    of the    braid increases    with    increasing    braiding    angle. However, when cover  factor  increases,  the  friction between  the  filaments  opposes  the  displacements  of the   filaments   in   the   braid   and   the   deformation decreases  consequently.  The  increase  of  filaments friction  between  each  other  inhibits  the  elongation  of the braid. It is found  that  the  ultimate  tensile strength   (UTS)   is   not   affected   by   braided   sheet composition. Thus, by using the same yarn account, the suture  shows  approximately  the  same  UTS regardless sheet yarn number. However, the sheet yarn composition affects  the  suture  linear  rigidity.  Therefore,  Young’s modulus  shows  nonlinear behaviour as  a  function  of sheet  yarn  number.  Sutures  made  with  4  and  8  horn gears have more flexible and deformable structures than the  sutures  made  with  6  horn  gear  machines,  because this machine gives compressible plate braids. It is  observed  that  the presence of the braided core leads to an improvement in a straight pull strength. In fact, the maximum force at break increases with adding braided core for suture having   similar   diameters.   It   is   also   found   that manufactured   sutures   in   this   study   have   similar extension  as  commercial  suture1,  38.  The  addition  of braided  core  increases  the  deformation  at  break  of non-knotted  suture.  Thus  multifilament  yarns  have  a helical  shape  in  the  braided  structure.  The  tensile force  applied  on  suture  makes  yarns  parallel  to  the braid   axis   direction,   causing   a   jamming   of   the structure.  The braid  is  then  as  extensible  as  there  are inclined    yarns    in    the    structure.    These    results correspond  with  the  finding  as  reported  by  Hristovet   al.,   who   tested the   mechanical behaviour of circular  hybrid  braids  made  of  polypropylene  and PET.  So, braid  is  more  extensible,  as  there  are  yarns inclined in the structure. It  is  shown  that braided sutures  with  braided  core  exhibit  a  lower  Young’s modulus  than  sutures  without  braided  core.  This  can be  explained  by  the  fact  that  the braided  core,  added parallel to the axis of the braid leads to the increase in deformation  under  lower  applied  forces.  Obtained rigidity  becomes  lower  than that  of the  commercial suture  by  adding  braided  core.  By analysing the UTS,  the  addition  of  the  core  can  reduce  the  UTS. This can be explained by the fact that adding braided core increases suture diameter. So, during manufacturing,  the  optimum  braided  core  must  be determined to obtain the best mechanical properties. Mechanical properties of knotted suture Knot  performances have been determined. It  can  be seen    that    the    knot    pull    strength    meet    USP requirements.  It is  observed  that  suture break  occurs  quite  more  easily  for  knotted  sutures than  for  non-knotted  suture.  The  presence  of  a  knot lowers  the  knot  pull  strength  of  all  suture  types. In the case of the three manufactured sutures without  braided  core,  the  load-elongation curves of knotted sutures show an importing stick-slip points  corresponding  to  knot  untying  happening  in low loads (around 10 N) and can be explained by the knot  material  slippage.  The  failure  of  knotted  sutures occurs  at  the  knot  rather  along  the  suture  indicating that  the  knot  itself  is  an  area  of  high  stress.  Similar results are obtained by Hewardet al., who tested the mechanical performances of non-sterile monofilament sutures  made  of  polyamide,  polyinylidene  fluoride and  polyester.  Other  studies  reported  that  knot  is  the weakest part of any suture or ligature when subjected to tension. Several factors contribute to the fact that failure occurs at the knot rather than along the suture. Firstly, break a great the knot may be caused by forces being  oriented  at  the  knot  at  an  acute  angle  to  the suture   axis. Secondly,   the   suture   yarns   in the   knot region may be weakened during knot construction and loading.   Third,   tightening   the   knot   and   friction between  yarns  in  the  knot  may  contribute  to  the failure. These   results   are   in   good   agreement   with   the obtained  knot  efficiency  results.  Indeed, the knot efficiency is less than 100 per cent and does not exceed 50 per cent. In addition, suture manufactured  with 12 sheet yarns   shows   the   lowest   knot   efficiency   because obtained   suture  is   more  compressible   than  suture made  with  8  and16  sheet  yarns  as  can  be  seen  from the  evolution  of  deformation  of  unknotted  suture.  To avoid  compressibility  of  suture  and  to  have  better handling  properties  during  tying.  It  is  recommended to  add  a  core  in  the  suture.  Generally,  when  a cabled   core   is   added   to   the   suture, a rough suture surface is obtained. In previous studies researchers  showed  that  smoother  surface  is  obtained by using maximum possible  number of filaments  and sheet  yarns.  In  fact,  they  used  filaments  with  very small  diameters  that  allow  using  a  high  number  of sheet  yarns  leading  to  compact  and  smooth  suture surface. The  increase  in  the  number  of  yarns  in  braid  core shows  no  significant  differences  on  deformation  of knotted suture. It leads to slight increase in breaking  load  in  the  case  of  small  diameter.  The obtained   results   are   compatible   with   the   results obtained   for   knot   efficiency.   In   fact   no amelioration of knot efficiency is noted by adding the braided   core.   In   other   findings,  the   inclusion of braided core yarns prevent the occurrence of stick-slip points   in   the   load   elongation   curve.   As mentioned  earlier, this  phenomenon  can  be  attributed to the  increased  friction among  yarns within the  knot due  to the  utilization of a high number of core  yarns, thus  hindering knot  material slippage  when  subjected to applied load. The analysis of the evolution of slippage ratio as a function  of  the  applied  load  leads  to the conclusion  that  the  increase  of  the  number  of  sheet yarns  involves  a  reduction  of  the  slippage  ratio.  This can be explained by the fact that the increase of sheet yarn number increases the braid angle. Consequently, polyester yarns become  less  oriented  to  the  direction of braid axis, causing a high friction coefficient of the braid and a stable knot. Conclusion The effect of braid composition on performances of simple and double layer braided sutures has been—Knot  efficiency  of  manufactured  braided  sutures  (a) without braided core and (b)with braided core studied.  Obtained  results  show  that  the  adding  of braid core leads to good knot security. It is concluded that braid core reduces the compressibility of sutures. This study clearly shows that knot untying happens at lower loads in the case of braids without braided core as compared to double braid suture. The data presents a  great  interest  to  manufacturers  of  braided  suture whom model the architecture of the suture in function of  needed  knot  performances.  In fact,  obtained  results recommend    manufacturing    of    suture    with    high number  of  sheet  yarns,  low  yarn  count  and  low braided  core  diameter  to  have  uniform  surface  and secure    knot.    Further   study    will    focus   on    the development of  theoretical  model  permitting  to  help manufacturers  to   predict  suture   performance   as   a function of manufacturing conditions. References * Chu  C  C,  Greisler  H P  &Fraunhofer  J  A  V, Wound  Closure Biomaterials and Devices,1stedn(CRC-Press, United States of America), 1997, 416. * 2.. Rodeheaver  G  T,  Powell  T  A,  Thacker  J  G  &Edlkh  R  F, Am J Sur,154 (1987). * Heward A G, Laing R M, Carr D J & Niven B E, Text Res J, 74 (1) (2004) 83. * Hong  T,  King  M  W,  Michielse  S,  Cheung  L  W  K,  Mary  C, Guzman R &Guidoin R, ASAIOJ, 44 (6) (1998) 776 * Karaca E  & HockenbergerA  S, J  Biomed  Mater  Res  B  ApplBiomater, 87 (2) (2008) 580. * Tomia  N,  Tamai  S,  Morihara  T,  Ikeuchi  K  &Ikada  Y, J ApplBiomater, 4 (1993) 61. * ebbabi F, Abdessalem S B &Limem S, J Text Inst,102 (6) (2011) 548. * The United States Pharmacopeia USPXXII(U.S. PharmacopeiaConvention Inc, Rockville, MD, USA),1990. * Chu C C, Ann Surg, 193 (3) (1981) 365. * Thacker  J  G,  Rodeheaver  G,  Moore  J  W,  Kauzlarlch  JJ, KurtzL, Edgerton M & Edlich R F, AmJ Surgery, 130 (1975) 375. About the authors: * S Karthikeyan is from the Department of Petrochemical engineering, SSM College of Engineering, Komarapalayam, Tamil Nadu. * Dr C Kayalvizhi is from the Department of Textile Technology, RVS College of Engineering, Dindigal, Tamil Nadu. * P Ramya is from the Department of Chemistry, SSM College of Engineering, Komarapalayam, Tamil Nadu. * Dr N Gokarneshan is from the  Department of Textile Chemistry, SSM College of Engineering, Komarapalayam, Tamil Nadu. The post Innovative Braided Sutures for Surgery appeared first on Indian Textile Journal.

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Recyclr Driving Zero-Waste Apparel Aadi Sustainability Solutions is a forward-thinking company leading the charge in sustainable practices within the textile and apparel industry. With over two decades of experience in textile waste management and more than 13 years in denim garment manufacturing, Aadi has cultivated deep expertise across the value chain. Recognizing the environmental challenges posed by textile waste, the company launched Recyclr, its dedicated circularity initiative. Initially, Aadi operated its waste recycling and garment manufacturing businesses separately. However, the growing global demand for sustainable fashion prompted a strategic shift—bringing together both verticals to create a closed-loop production model. Through Recyclr, the company began integrating post-industrial denim waste from its own operations into the supply chain by converting it into recycled fibre. This fibre is then reintegrated into yarns and fabrics through collaborations with denim mills. Over the past few years, this model has evolved into a fully circular system, capable of handling both pre-consumer and post-consumer textile waste. Today, Recyclr is among a select group of companies globally—and possibly the only one in India—able to claim zero-waste garment production. The company’s unique strength lies in its ability to manage waste at the source, recycle it effectively, and reintegrate it into high-quality finished garments. Parvinder Singh, Director of Aadi Sustainability Solutions and Founder of the Global Alliance for Textile Sustainability (GATS) From its origins in textile waste management to its current position as a circular economy leader, Recyclr continues to redefine what’s possible in sustainable apparel manufacturing—delivering solutions that are not only environmentally responsible but also commercially scalable. Parvinder Singh, Director of Aadi Sustainability Solutions and Founder of the Global Alliance for Textile Sustainability (GATS), shares an overview of how his Recyclr initiative is transforming the textile recycling industry. Manufacturing and operations The company’s waste collection and management facilities are in Bangladesh, Bengaluru, Kolkata, and Tiruppur Recyclr is headquartered in Panipat, where its garment manufacturing operations are also located. In addition to its Panipat base, the company has established waste collection and management facilities in several key textile hubs, including Bangladesh, Bengaluru, Kolkata, and Tiruppur. These locations support activities such as waste collection, sorting, and processing, enabling the company to manage textile waste efficiently across multiple regions. “We work with several major brands, including both large Indian and global names. We have agreements with approximately 14 to 15 brands for managing our post-industrial waste, and is also running post-consumer or consumer take-back programs for two to three of those brands,” informs Singh. Catering to sustainable practices Recyclr and the Global Alliance for Textile Sustainability (GATS) form an integral part of the broader mission to advance circular production, sustainable manufacturing, and low-cost recycling through replicable models. At GATS, the company challenge the perception that sustainability is a cost burden by proving that cost efficiency and quality can coexist. Recyclr’s approach focuses on developing MSME-driven models that can be scaled and replicated across India. Recyclr’s dedicated denim initiative embodies this philosophy. The company partners with brands to ensure that any denim provided to them is transformed into zero-waste, fully circular denim—without adding any additional cost burden. This commitment reflects the core efforts: making sustainability accessible, scalable, and economically viable for the textile industry. “We don’t convert yarns. We are up to fibres because in denim, what we want—what our philosophy is—is that we don’t want to create friction between us and the brands. Firstly, we want to impact minimal changes in their supply chains, because lots of brands are not prone to supply chain changes. So, our priority is that we will supply recycled fibres to any of your nominated mills, and we will convert any of your existing fabric into a recycled version of that. And then, if you want to make garments from us, that is fine. If you don’t want to, if you have other facilities, we can do it there also,” says Singh. Focus on domestic brands When asked about the global expansion plan. Singh shared that first we will focus on Indian brands for the fact that our industry, our manufacturers, our brands, are not ambitious enough. What we have tried to follow is: make a cheaper product, make inferior products, integrate synthetic materials into everything, and then you can scale up. “I don’t see this as a feasible or wise option, because there is a limit in terms of technique and product quality. So one day, I see from the vision of fit, fashion, and fabric—these are the three essentials for any fashion brand. What we are trying to do is sensitize Indian brands and Indian manufacturers. And our primary focus is that India is a global manufacturing hub, whether we are producing for India or whether we are producing for global brands” explains Singh. Challenges The primary challenge for Recyclr lies in the proof-of-concept stage. When brands approach them, they often aim to start with a capsule or small collection to test the concept. While apparel can be produced in limited quantities, yarns and fabrics cannot be manufactured in such small runs. This technical constraint makes it challenging to create small batches of new products for initial trials. On this, Singh has come up with a solution. He says, “We are trying to create a common development facility where all the companies and brands can create their small collections—whether it is yarn, fibre, or fabric—anything that can be produced in small quantities to prove the concept. Secondly, certifications: we don’t have testing and quality certifications for recycled products. Right now, the whole industry is working on virgin standards, and we are comparing recycled products with virgin products. So these are two technical challenges we are facing. On the business side, and on the requirement side, there is a lack of awareness and lack of knowledge among fashion brands, because they have been told that recycling is not quality—meaning recycled product quality is not comparable to virgin products—and that it is a premium-paying thing. So all of this, we are trying to change with our GATS initiatives and Recyclr initiatives.” Additionally, Recyclr has developed a complete range of denim garments with a proven sustainability impact — all accessible through a simple barcode. By scanning the barcode, consumers can instantly view the entire journey of the garment on their mobile phones. This includes a clear comparison of the environmental impact between a virgin product and a recycled product — without any cost premium to the customer. Through this initiative, and with the integration of the Digital Product Passport (DPP), the company has incorporated all relevant quality parameters and testing benchmarks. This allows virgin and recycled products to be compared on the same standards, addressing every possible question a consumer may have — all through a single scan. Long term plan Recyclr’s overarching global vision is to transform the denim industry into one that is truly sustainable and circular. Denim, traditionally, was a single-product category made entirely from 100 per cent cotton and dyed using natural indigo. However, with the rise of fast fashion, synthetic fibres, texturised yarns, and filament yarns have been integrated into denim production to meet the demand for low-cost garments,” says Singh. The company aims to reverse this shift by replacing all synthetic components in denim with recycled cotton inputs, bringing the product back to its natural and sustainable roots. To amplify the company’s voice within the industry, Singh concludes, Right now, we are calling for brands to collaborate in the form of pilots. If any brand wants to create a sustainable or circular denim collection, we are speaking with many brands at our new facility. We will create denim capsule collections for them, free of cost, to establish a proof of concept and show how they can integrate circularity, sustainability, and recycling into their product portfolio. We are not charging anything—just requiring proof of intent that they are committed to converting their portfolio into a sustainable and circular one.” Rcyclr is committed to establish as the most recognised and respected name in circular denim manufacturing—both in India and globally—offering low-impact, environmentally conscious garments that set the benchmark for sustainability in the denim industry. The post Recyclr Driving Zero-Waste Apparel appeared first on Indian Textile Journal.

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Shreyans Kokra:  We expect to enter the technical textiles segment in the next 12 to 18 months The textile industry harms the environment with high water use, microplastic pollution, and 10 per cent of global carbon emissions. Meanwhile in India, burning 100 million tonne of agricultural waste worsens air pollution and smog. Canvaloop transforms agricultural waste of hemp, flax, oilseed crops, pineapple, banana, and nettle into high-performance, breathable, and durable textile fibres. The 3-step patented process creates anti-microbial, anti-UV, and sustainable textile bio-materials, reducing dependence on cotton and synthetics. By repurposing waste and offering a plug-and-play solution for textile mills, Canvaloop drives towards mainstream sustainability in textiles. Shreyans Kokra, Founder & CEO of Canvaloop, shares valuable insights about the company and explains why natural fibre is the fibre of the future in an exclusive chat with Divya Shetty. What inspired you to start Canvaloop, and how did the idea of converting agricultural waste into sustainable fibres come about? Canvaloop actually began as a college project. My background is in finance—I’m a CFA, CFP—and I previously worked at Barclays in investment banking before pursuing a master’s in entrepreneurship from Babson. That was my first real exposure to concepts like sustainability and circularity. Coming from Surat, a major synthetic textile hub, we never really questioned the highly linear nature of fashion supply chains. Once I understood the environmental impact, I wanted to build something truly sustainable, not greenwashed. Initially, we worked with hemp, given its incredible sustainability characteristics both during cultivation and post-processing. Over time, our focus shifted to agricultural waste, which is abundant and offers a highly sustainable source of cellulose for natural fibre production. We developed a low-energy, low-chemical process to convert this biomass into textile-grade fibres, and the market has embraced our solution. Can you elaborate more on the raw materials you use—where you source them from, and the overall sourcing mix? Until last year, we primarily relied on imported raw materials due to ease of operations. However, from this year, we’ve started establishing collection centres across India. Our goal is to transition more than 80 per cent of sourcing to domestic biomass by the next season. We focus mainly on South Gujarat to minimize the carbon footprint of logistics, along with Maharashtra, Madhya Pradesh, Rajasthan, and some sourcing from the Northeast, especially for pineapple waste. Until last year, nearly 100 per cent of our materials were imported. This year, it’s a 50:50 mix. By next season, we aim for 80 per cent domestic sourcing. Can you tell us more about your applications? Which industries and product categories do they currently cater to? Our primary market is apparel, especially men’s shirting, women’s topwear, ethnic wear, and denim. As our production scales up, we plan to expand into home textiles and technical textiles. Our fibres offer higher strength and durability compared to other natural fibres, making them suitable for technical textile applications. We expect to enter the technical textiles segment in the next 12 to 18 months, starting with the domestic market. Can you highlight some collaborations that has helped you in your journey? A major collaboration was with the Marico Innovation Foundation, which helped us establish a domestic supply chain by connecting us to Marico’s agri network. We also work with the Circular Apparel Innovation Factory (CAIF), which promotes sustainable practices across fashion brands. Recently, we were awarded by the H&M Foundation for our urban waste initiative, where we are collaborating holistically on shop-floor-level sustainability. Can you elaborate on your partnership with Marico Innovation Foundation and NAFPO? Our association with Marico over the past 12–18 months has been instrumental. They helped us connect with NAFPO, which enabled us to engage directly with farmers and FPOs. As an urban-based company, this connection to the rural ecosystem was critical. Marico has also supported us with ideation, strategy, and operational challenges by providing expert resources whenever required. Tell us about your manufacturing infrastructure and R&D process. We currently operate one facility in Surat, Gujarat, and we’re expanding our capacity tenfold. Our R&D is very hands-on and industry-first. Instead of lab-scale trials, we work on commercial-scale development to ensure our products are both sustainable and widely usable. Every R&D initiative starts with the question: can this product reach every wardrobe in 5–10 years? We don’t focus on niche products that lack scalability. You mentioned a venture into intimate wear. What developments can we expect in that category? Currently, most of our products are designed for outerwear. Intimate wear demands more consistent fibres, which we’re developing. We aim to launch products in this space within a year, though our core focus remains on everyday apparel, followed by home and technical textiles. Product-market fit always comes first for us. What are your expansion plans over the next 1–2 years in terms of product portfolio, production, or global markets? We aim to grow our portfolio with more regionally available crops around South Gujarat. We’ve also forward integrated into yarns and fabrics to serve mid-sized brands that need finished products. Our R&D will continue launching new products and improving sustainability. Scaling these offerings is our near-term priority. How do you plan to remain cost-competitive in a price-sensitive market like India? Fashion is complex, with a wide price spectrum. We position ourselves in the mass-premium segment—above regular cotton but below linen or technical fabrics. We work with mainstream and fast fashion brands like H&M and Zara in their higher-end collections. We’re not competing with cotton or polyester directly but offering a distinct value proposition. How did Canvaloop perform financially last year, and what are your projections? We’ve consistently targeted 3x growth annually. Last year, we achieved about 2.5x growth. It’s been a challenging but rewarding journey. The post Shreyans Kokra:  We expect to enter the technical textiles segment in the next 12 to 18 months appeared first on Indian Textile Journal.

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How slow fashion is the future of fashion If we want slow fashion to grow beyond a niche category and become a true movement in India, we need more than just demand – we need infrastructure, suggests Pragya Priyali and Piyush Kumar. Across the Indian fashion landscape, a shift is slowly but unmistakably underway. Once fuelled by a race to keep up with trends and lightning-speed production cycles, the industry is beginning to respond to a more thoughtful consumer – one who values transparency, craftsmanship, and longevity. Particularly post-pandemic, Indian consumers are asking harder questions about where their clothes come from, who made them, and what impact their wardrobe choices have on the world. And as sustainability takes centre stage in lifestyle decisions, slow fashion – an approach that celebrates mindful creation and consumption feels not just like a promising movement, but an inevitable future. But while the philosophy of slow fashion may sound idyllic, those of us working to build consciously from the ground up know the truth – creating ethical, seasonless fashion in India at scale and with integrity is riddled with roadblocks. The fabric reality for small brands Sourcing the right fabric is where most slow fashion brands begin, and where many start to stumble. The reality is that accessing sustainable textiles in small quantities is an uphill battle. Most mills and fabric suppliers operate with Minimum Order Quantities (MOQs) that cater to large players. If you’re a young or independent brand looking for 100 metres or so of chances are you’re either priced out or deprioritized. Often, suppliers will not entertain low-volume orders, or worse, will offer deadstock or sub-par material in the name of sustainability. Even when suitable fabrics are found, inconsistencies in dye lots, weave tightness, or GSM can derail entire production plans – a significant issue for small brands that rely on limited inventory cycles. Another major gap – there’s no centralized platform in India for ethically sourced, small-quantity textiles. Unlike fast fashion houses that have access to global vendor networks and structured supply chains, slow fashion entrepreneurs must piece together sourcing relationships through trial and error, WhatsApp groups, and personal networks. As a brand that prides itself on offering clothes that feel fresh even after several washes and wears, Unrush has had to be highly selective and painfully patient, while building its fabric library. Cost vs consciousness – Consumer expectations vs reality One of the most persistent challenges for slow fashion brands in India is the mismatch between consumer intention and expectation. While many urban consumers now resonate with the ethos of slow fashion, there is still a strong tendency to compare prices with mass-produced, trend-forward alternatives. As a result, slow fashion brands are often asked to justify their prices despite building with ethical materials, fair wages, and limited batch runs. The hard truth is that conscious fashion costs more to make. Sourcing small batches and refusing to mass-produce means slimmer margins. As a founder, you often walk a tightrope between wanting to honour the value chain and needing to stay accessible to a young, aspirational audience. We’ve learned that education has to be part of the brand’s offering – explaining the “why” behind a garment’s price, the story behind the fabric, or the human effort that went into each seam. Our consumers today are thoughtful but not always informed. Transparency and trust, we believe, will drive the next phase of this movement. Seasonless, not trendless – rethinking newness In today’s fashion culture, the expectation to drop something “new” every few weeks is very real. It’s a model fast fashion perfected, and now even smaller brands are expected to follow suit. For slow fashion, this presents a creative dilemma: how do you offer freshness without feeding into trend cycles or overproduction? At Unrush, our answer has been to create seasonless, modular designs—outfits that are relevant year-round, across cities and climates. Instead of thinking in terms of Spring/Summer or Fall/Winter, we think in terms of moods, occasions, and wearability. Styling becomes a storytelling tool. Through content, conversation, and community, we show how a single garment can be worn multiple ways. It’s about extending the life of a product not just physically, but emotionally. This approach not only aligns with slow fashion but also respects the cultural rhythms of Indian consumers—who, historically, have always re-worn, repurposed, and reimagined their clothing. The MOQ and vendor hierarchy problem While fabrics are the foundation, the rest of the supply chain – trims, buttons, linings, packaging presents its own bottlenecks for small brands. Most vendors prioritize high-volume orders. If you’re a brand placing an order for 50 pieces of biodegradable buttons or 30 metres of organic lining, you’re often met with silence or exorbitant prices. In many cases, you’re told to take what’s available in bulk or not at all. This creates a two-fold problem – it limits design flexibility and innovation for emerging brands and  pushes many to settle for unsustainable or inconsistent components to meet deadlines. A functional ecosystem for small-batch manufacturing and conscious accessories is urgently needed in India. Shared platforms, cooperative vendor networks, or government-facilitated sourcing clusters could help democratize access for new-generation designers and labels. The way forward If we want slow fashion to grow beyond a niche category and become a true movement in India, we need more than just demand – we need infrastructure. This includes: * Government support for decentralized, ethical textile hubs * Public-private partnerships to digitize artisan networks and provide traceability tools * Financial incentives for low MOQ production units using eco-friendly practices * Expos and trade platforms tailored to small brands, where fabric vendors, weavers, and sustainable material innovators can connect meaningfully Brands also need support in product development labs, testing facilities for small runs, and sustainability certifications that are accessible to micro-entrepreneurs. We envision a future where India becomes the global epicenter of mindful fashion, not just for export, but for its own growing conscious class. The raw material is here. The craft is here. The demand is rising. What’s missing is the bridge. Why slow fashion is the future Despite the hurdles, we believe slow fashion is not just the future, but the antidote to a fatigued, extractive industry. At its heart, slow fashion is about respect. Respect for the maker. Respect for the material. Respect for the earth. And most importantly, respect for the wearer – not treating them as a consumer, but as someone whose identity and values can be reflected in what they choose to wear. In a country as rich and diverse as India, where textile traditions have always been rooted in community, craft, and culture, slow fashion is not a Western import – it’s a homecoming. As young entrepreneurs building a brand like Unrush from scratch, we’ve come to see slow fashion not just as a product strategy, but a personal and professional philosophy. One that’s harder, yes. But one that also feels truer, more lasting, and ultimately, more human. The future of fashion is not fast. It is slow, steady, and stitched with intention. About the authors: Pragya Priyali is the visionary Founder and Creative Director of Unrush, a slow fashion brand born out of her deep commitment to craftsmanship. With over 16 years of experience in the fashion industry, her journey began as a design graduate from NIFT Delhi and evolved into leadership roles in content, social, and brand marketing at India’s top fashion e-commerce platforms, including Myntra. Piyush Kumar, a Co-founder & Supply Chain Lead of Unrush is a seasoned business strategy and operations leader with over 16 years of experience across industries, having worked with some of India’s most prominent companies, including Zomato, Flipkart, and Amazon. With a background in driving operational excellence and strategic growth, Piyush has now brought his expertise into the world of fashion as the co-founder of Unrush, a slow fashion brand that challenges fast fashion by promoting timeless, sustainable, and culturally conscious clothing. The post How slow fashion is the future of fashion appeared first on Indian Textile Journal.

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Swiss firm debuts water- and energy-saving tech at ITMA ASIA + CITME 2025 Technologies such as EcoDye and EcoFix enable the company to reduce water consumption by up to 71 per cent. The textile industry continues to come under pressure; sustainability is becoming a key competitive factor. The textile industry is one of the biggest consumers of water globally, requiring approximately 93 billion cubic meters annually. This is equivalent to around 4 per cent of the total freshwater consumed worldwide. The industry is facing increasing criticism as a result and is coming under pressure. Sustainability is therefore no longer just about image, but is a key competitive factor for textile manufacturers. Companies across the entire textile chain with a sole focus on conventional processes will have to address sales issues over the medium term and will be faced with ever greater regulatory pressure. At the trade fair in Singapore, the Swiss company Textilcolor AG is showcasing how textile treatment is still fit for the future. Technologies such as EcoDye and EcoFix enable the company to reduce water consumption by up to 71 per cent. These processes also allow the amount of fossil-fuel energy used to be reduced by up to half of the previous level across the entire production process. The results achieved speak for themselves. They allow a significant reduction in the carbon footprint and provide an advantage in terms of innovation for an industry currently in the midst of an ecological transformation. Textilcolor’s product range covers the entire textile process chain. ITMA Asia + CITME 2025 is regarded as one of the leading trade fairs in textile and clothing manufacture in the Asian region. “We have always stood for innovative, sustainable and high-quality solutions in textile chemistry,” explains Detlef Fischer, CEO of Textilcolor AG. “For us, the trade fair in Singapore is the right platform for effectively showcasing our technologies as part of a future-focussed industry”.The slogan for this year’s trade fair is ‘ECO Performance Technologies from Switzerland’. Sustainability is firmly established within the corporate philosophy – the company has always developed technologies which lower resource consumption and which continue to reduce the carbon footprint of textile production. One particular focus is on using raw materials from renewable sources. An example of this is the use of plant-based oils in order to conserve fossil resources as much as possible. In many parts of the world, freshwater is in increasingly short supply; companies have to be ever more focussed on using this element in a sustainable way. The company has also led the market here in the development of water-saving technologies. Future developments are increasingly focused on sustainable and resource-saving technologies Sustainable solutions for the textile dyeing industry have been developed and produced Sevelen, Switzerland, for over 40 years. Under the EcoDye label, a process has been developed which is specifically tailored to the requirements of PES dyeing processes. Textilcolor AG was the first company in the world to successfully launch this product onto the market. The optimisation and enhancement of EcoDye has continued ever since in order to guarantee a sustainable and efficient dyeing technology and to facilitate its ongoing development. It reduces water consumption by up to 71%, and at least 34% less energy is used in the polyester dyeing (PES) process. These resource savings mean it is regarded as one of the most efficient and environmentally-friendly dyeing systems in synthetic textile dyeing, with the smallest carbon footprint. With the EcoDye process, specific work steps can be removed (e.g. prewash), a shorter heating rate means the dyeing process can be accelerated and subsequent treatment processes can be reduced. Use of this method means that, for the customer, the duration of the process is significantly shorter. One specific advantage for users is that the EcoDye process can be used with pre-existing recipes. All EcoDye components are bluesign®-approved. When combined with other technologies from the Swiss company – such as EcoFix and EcoThren, two rapid dyeing processes for reactive and vat dyeing – the reduction in the rinse baths required enables a time-saving of up to 40%. Production output can also be significantly increased, marked reductions in manufacturing costs can then be achieved and product quality can be improved. For safeguarding the entire process and for ensuring optimal dyeing results, Textilcolor has the appropriate products in its range such as levelling and dispersing agents. Other speciality products preventing the agglomeration of oligomers or for reductive after-clearing complete the product range. These products ensure the stability and reliability of the entire dyeing process on an ongoing basis. At the trade fair, Textilcolor AG will also have other proven technologies available such as EcoPhob, a PFC-free hydrophobicity solution. EcoPhob EXT is also an environmentally friendly product with an excellent hydrophobic effect. It is suitable for use generally with all types of fibre and, for example, has excellent washing resistance. The product also consists of the maximum possible proportion of renewable raw materials. It can also be used for manufacturing textiles which meet the requirements for class 1 products under the Öko-Tex standard. Wide-ranging offer covering the entire textile process chain Textilcolor AG is not only known for manufacturing all products in accordance with strict ecological and sustainability standards. The continual development of new products and solutions is indicative of the company’s leading role in the market. These are frequently tailored to the wide range of processing requirements – often in close collaboration with customers. The broad product range has now become a further feature of the company. In contrast to other suppliers, which generally only offer products for individual processes, Textilcolor covers the entire textile process chain. The broad product range covers all steps from pre-treatment, printing and dyeing, finishing and coating, to pigmentation and optical brighteners. This also underlines Textilcolor AG’s commitment, as a solution provider, to environmentally-friendly, efficient and future-oriented textile production. We look forward to seeing you on our stand at the ITMA ASIA + CITME 2025 trade fair in Singapore from 28-31 October. Come and see for yourself how our technologies and individual solutions can meet your requirements. ITMA ASIA + CITME Singapore will be held from 28–31 October 2025 at Singapore Expo. TEXTILCOLOR AG was founded in 1978 in Buchs, Switzerland, and is now a company operating internationally. Over time, the company’s consistent growth meant further expansion of production facilities and laboratories and ongoing investment in environmental facilities. The formation of TEXTILCOLOR HOLDING AG in 1990 brought together a number of subsidiaries under one roof. Quality certification under ISO 9001 and 14001 then followed from the mid-1990s. The company was the first in Switzerland to implement a wastewater treatment plant based on the biomembrane process. Ongoing investment followed, from 2000 onwards, in production facilities, a sustainable energy supply as well as in company-wide infrastructure. By establishing international ventures in Germany, Turkey, India, Italy, Belgium and Brazil, the company was able to expand its global presence. The development of a proprietary app – the Textilcolor-App – allowed the company to underline its focus on innovation and customer proximity. 2017 marked the start of a new strategic orientation under the slogan of “We sure know textiles”. In 2023, Textilcolor celebrated its 45th anniversary. As a manufacturer of speciality chemicals, dyes and pigments, the company has a broad product range. The company places a particular emphasis on sustainable and environmentally friendly solutions – it has a global presence, a modern infrastructure and a clear focus on the future. The post Swiss firm debuts water- and energy-saving tech at ITMA ASIA + CITME 2025 appeared first on Indian Textile Journal.

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How End-to-End Digital Printing Solutions Are Redefining Speed, Quality, and Sustainability? Globally, this digital wave is making textiles smarter, quicker, and more sustainable, says Sanjay Desai. End-to-end digital printing solutions are capable of taking the speed, efficiency, and quality of textile printing to the next level.   The Indian Textile Industry is transforming. Driven by tech integration, the change in the textile sector is driven by digital printing. Digital tools are taking over the conventional systems and proving a game changer in elevating speed, quality, and precision of the entire industry. In fact, digital textile printing is changing not only the way we produce fabrics but also the way the textile sector is now turning into a greener industry. Digital printing: The evolution and coming of age Indian textiles have been known for their intricate designs and masterful craftsmanship. But many brilliant designers were held back by old-fashioned printing methods. These conventional mechanisms couldn’t handle details or were too expensive for an exclusive run. Thankfully, though now a new era is dawning for Indian textiles. It’s powered by digital printing and signifies the revolutionary leap. In the last couple of years, digital printing has rapidly become the go-to choice for modern manufacturers, offering a smarter, cleaner, and efficient alternative to the printing of the past. Breaking free limits: Traditional printing came with a long list of restrictions. Complex designs were difficult to carve, multicolour was a challenge, and production in small batches was next to impossible. The high environmental impact was also a grave concern. However, the advent of digital printing shattered these barriers. It gives creators the freedom to print fabric with ease and precision. Inclusive adoption: From thriving textile hubs to independent design studios, all kinds of companies are going along with the digital printing wave. Quick switch of designs wastes less time and produces fewer wastes, making digital printing the new backbone of the industry. This shift is essential to provide the consumer with a very customizable and green product. Fully digital: Digital printing is completely integrated from design, printing, and finishing. This automated flow reduces any manual operation or intervention, resulting in printing that is free of errors. This further provides efficiency to the textile industry to be on par with the global markets. Digital advantage: A game-changer for Indian textiles Unleashed creativity: Digitisation opens new frontiers for designers to try novel designs. It includes the possibility of combining complex patterns and colour gradients to create fabrics of such innumerable colours. Digital printing provides for the execution of one-off collections and special style jobs. This, in turn, allows companies to deliver custom-made fabrics on demand with very little batch production. Greener footprint: Sustainability becomes more and more important in the textile industry. The digital process uses much less water in the dyeing process and creates considerably less wastage of materials during production. It also fits well with more ecological inks that help further in environmental sustainability. Textile houses use digital printing to advertise their environmentally friendly attitude, creating positive vibes between themselves and target markets. Incredible speed: Digital printing offers a fast turnaround time. From initial samples to final products, firms can achieve rapid printing speeds with digital tools. What’s more, the lightning-fast printing doesn’t impact the print quality.  Digital printing allows high-definition prints that can be replicated with precision. Future of volume with value addition  The future of digital printing is here, and it’s all about high volume and high value. Textile printing in India is becoming incredibly fast and flexible. Importantly, it’s also getting smarter. Manufacturers can print exact positions and fabric areas. They can also add fluorescent inks or foil printing to add more value to final products. Unlike the past, today’s printers are advanced and can handle high-volume production. Even printing 50,000 meters a day is not a big deal to handle, which makes digital printers perfect for large-scale manufacturing. Conclusion Digital textile printing isn’t just another technique – it’s a total revolution for the industry. It enables firms to move away from the “one-size-fits-all’ model and embrace an era of mass-customisation. That’s what digital printing delivers: the era of mass customisation is here. Globally, this digital wave is making textiles smarter, quicker, and more sustainable. The best part? It effortlessly connects our deep, rich textile heritage with cutting-edge innovation. Simply put, digital printing is redefining the rules, creating a more vibrant and promising path forward for Indian textiles. About the author: Sanjay Desai, a passionate entrepreneur, is Managing Director at True Colors Private Limited. His journey began in 2013 when he envisioned a company that would revolutionise the digital print industry in India. Born and raised in Surat, the textile hub of India, Sanjay has always been fascinated by the textile industry. This interest, combined with his engineering background, led him to explore the potential of digital print technology in textiles. The post How End-to-End Digital Printing Solutions Are Redefining Speed, Quality, and Sustainability? appeared first on Indian Textile Journal.

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Kapil Pathare:  Automation has had a direct impact on our sustainability metrics Automation is transforming industries across the board, and the textile sector is no exception. From spinning and weaving to garment manufacturing, every segment is increasingly integrating automation into its processes. Kapil Pathare, Deputy Managing Director, VIP Clothing, in this interview with Divya Shetty, discusses how automation is benefiting his company and the strategies he is adopting to manage his workforce amid this technological evolution. Which areas of your manufacturing process have seen the most significant automation, and what drove this shift? At VIP Clothing, we’ve focused our automation efforts on areas that have the highest impact on quality and efficiency, particularly stitching lines and fabric cutting operations. These functions are the backbone of innerwear production, where precision is non-negotiable. In a category like ours, comfort and fit are everything. Even the slightest deviation in stitching or cutting can affect product performance and customer satisfaction. That’s why these processes were prime candidates for automation. The decision to automate was not just about speed—it was about elevating consistency, minimising human error, and enabling scale across a wide variety of product types. With multiple SKUs, designs, and fabric blends, the traditional manual approach posed challenges in maintaining standardisation. Automation allowed us to manage this complexity more effectively while ensuring high-quality output across the board. In addition, customer expectations today are evolving faster than ever. They want superior quality, fast turnarounds, and variety, pushing us to modernise our operations with technology at the core. How has automation improved your production efficiency and cost-effectiveness in a competitive market? The gains have been significant. By integrating automation into our production workflows, we’ve increased throughput and minimised manual errors, which previously impacted both quality and timelines. This has led to a marked reduction in fabric wastage and better resource optimisation.  One of the key benefits has been the improved accuracy in production planning. With systems that are digitally connected, we now have better visibility into inventory, raw material usage, and production timelines. This enables proactive decision-making and tighter control over production costs. In a competitive and price-sensitive market like ours, such efficiency is vital; it allows us to retain cost leadership without compromising on the product. Moreover, automation supports flexible manufacturing, which helps us switch between product variants quickly. This agility is crucial, especially in an environment where fashion trends change rapidly and customer demands are more dynamic than ever. The ability to scale up or down efficiently helps us stay ahead of the curve. With automation coming in, how are you addressing workforce upskilling and job role transformation? We firmly believe that automation should empower people and not replace them. At VIP Clothing we are taking a proactive, people-first approach to this transition. Our existing workforce is one of our most valuable assets, and we are committed to helping them grow alongside the technology. We’ve implemented structured training programs to upskill our employees across functions. From operating and maintaining automated machines to interpreting data dashboards and quality metrics, we’re equipping our people with the knowledge and tools they need to thrive in a digital-first environment. Many workers who previously did manual stitching or inspection tasks are now taking on more supervisory or quality assurance roles. This shift not only enhances productivity but also improves employee morale and career prospects. What are the biggest challenges you face in scaling automation across your operations? While the benefits of automation are clear, scaling it across the board is not without challenges. The most immediate hurdle is the capital investment required, particularly for mid-sized players like us. Advanced machines, smart software, and systems integration come at a cost, and this needs to be balanced with other operational priorities. Another challenge is compatibility with existing legacy systems. Our industry has deep roots and we have been running our factory for decades, most of our workers have been with us right from the start, and many processes were initially designed for manual execution. Integrating automation into such workflows requires customisation and careful change management. Also, innerwear manufacturing isn’t one-size-fits-all. Different fabric types, garment styles, and finishing details require highly tailored automation solutions—not off-the-shelf products. This calls for collaborative problem-solving with equipment providers, and sometimes even co-developing new solutions. Lastly, the availability of skilled technical talent—whether machine operators, maintenance specialists, or automation engineers—is a pressing issue. We need a more robust talent pipeline to support this technological evolution. Do you believe automation will determine India’s global competitiveness in textiles over the next decade? Absolutely. As global buyers increasingly demand faster delivery, traceability, and sustainable practices, automation is no longer optional—it’s essential. Countries that can produce high-quality textile products at scale, with predictable lead times and minimal wastage, will lead the global market. For Indian brands like VIP Clothing, automation not only helps in achieving international quality standards but also supports ambitions for export growth. By reducing dependency on manual processes completely, we can streamline operations, shorten lead times, decrease product rejections rates, and increase consistency—making us more attractive partners for global retailers and consumers. Have any government schemes or policies supported your automation journey—or what more is needed? Yes, initiatives such as the Amended Technology Upgradation Fund Scheme (ATUFS) and the Production Linked Incentive (PLI) scheme have provided meaningful support. They’ve laid the groundwork for modernisation by encouraging investment in new technologies. That said, we believe there’s room for more targeted interventions—particularly around digitisation, automation-led R&D, and affordable financing for mid-sized companies. A stronger ecosystem that fosters collaboration between Original Equipment Manufacturers, textile technology innovators, and garment manufacturers will help accelerate this transition. Policy frameworks that support long-term investment and talent development will also be critical. “As a company that proudly represents the ‘Made in India, for India First’ spirit, we believe such reforms can unlock both national and global potential for Indian manufacturers.” Has automation helped you move closer to your sustainability goals—such as reducing water, waste, or energy use? Definitely. Automation has had a direct impact on our sustainability metrics. For instance, digital fabric cutting significantly reduces offcuts and waste, while automated stitching ensures minimal rework. Smart energy monitoring systems and Passive Infrared sensor lights allow us to track and optimise electricity usage across our units, while data-backed insights help us reduce inefficiencies in production. Additionally, our 350 KW windmill generates clean, carbon-free energy, which is fed into the electrical grid—helping offset conventional power consumption and reducing wastage of electricity. In the long term, we see automation as a key enabler in building a more responsible and environmentally conscious manufacturing model. As consumer consciousness grows, aligning sustainability with operational efficiency will continue to be a major focus—and automation helps us achieve both. The post Kapil Pathare:  Automation has had a direct impact on our sustainability metrics appeared first on Indian Textile Journal.

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From tariffs to turning points in the textile trade Tariffs can close doors, but they can also push us to open new ones, asserts Kanishk Maheshwari. Not so long ago, India and the United States looked poised to reshape the global trade map with a bold vision of reaching $500 billion in bilateral trade by 2030. There was talk of aligning supply chains, transferring technology, and deepening a strategic partnership. The optimism was high, and India was to be America’s next big bet. Today, however, that partnership is being tested sharply. From Tiruppur’s cotton corridors to Surat’s synthetic yarn hubs, the US accounted for nearly 40 per cent of India’s total textile exports, a relationship worth billions each year. With tariffs now jumping from 9 per cent to a punishing 50 per cent, the US has turned into a premium zone where Indian products are among the costliest. In 2023–24, India exported around $16 billion worth of textiles and apparel to the US, led by ready-made garments, home textiles, and certain man-made fibre fabrics. Ready-made garments alone, like shirts, t-shirts, trousers, made up over 70 per cent of apparel exports. With the new duty, these products are instantly 15–30 per cent more expensive than those from Bangladesh, Vietnam, or Cambodia, which enjoy trade agreements or GSP advantages. Bangladesh’s $10 billion apparel exports to the US now have a clear edge, while Vietnam’s $18 billion share becomes even harder to displace. For a buyer in New York, the math is simple: the same shirt from Dhaka or Ho Chi Minh lands with a double-digit cost advantage over Surat. Industry sources suggest large US retailers like Amazon, Walmart, and Target has already asked sourcing teams to halt or review Indian orders. The impact is visible — exporters in Tamil Nadu’s Tiruppur, Noida’s garment belt, and Surat’s fabric units report slowed inquiries, delayed payments, and even cancellations. The hit is sharpest in mass-market apparel, where competition is ruthless and substitution easy. Home textiles, with niche positioning, have some cushion. Technical textiles — medical fabrics, automotive upholstery, and industrial applications — remain under-penetrated but promising. If the tariff holds, the sector could see a $5–7 billion drop in export value in the next year. Yet this is not the end of the road. Tariffs are both walls, as well as mirrors — they may block the way but they also reflect back the weaknesses in our strategy. The 50 per cent duty exposes India’s over-reliance on one large market, a narrow product focus, and a race-to-the-bottom cost competition. The question now is not just how to fight the tariff diplomatically, but how to adapt. Adaptation in any export industry comes down to mainly two things: price superiority and technical superiority. On price, targeted policy support can help. The RoDTEP (Remission of Duties and Taxes on Exported Products) scheme refunds embedded domestic taxes, but many high-impact textile categories are insufficiently covered or excluded. Including vulnerable HS codes could recover part of the tariff loss. A freight support mechanism, especially for MSME exporters, could claw back more points by offsetting India’s high logistics costs. Liquidity is the other immediate priority. Working capital cycles are long, payment delays are common, and higher tariffs may push buyers to demand steeper discounts or longer credit terms. Expanding interest subvention, enabling invoice discounting platforms, and extending credit guarantees to smaller exporters could keep supply chains moving despite tighter margins. The longer-term pivot is to sophistication over substitution. Competing with Bangladesh or Vietnam on cost is a losing race. Building in-house design teams, investing in R&D for technical textiles, and embedding Six Sigma-level quality control can change the game entirely. Technical textiles make up just 15 per cent of India’s textile output, compared to over 50 per cent in advanced economies, but they open access to high-value, less price-sensitive markets. The EU, for example, is importing more performance fabrics, medical textiles, and sustainable blends which are areas where India has capacity but needs scale, branding, and market penetration. Beyond Europe, Australia, Africa, and the Middle East hold potential in home and institutional textiles. Individually these markets may not match US volumes, but collectively they can reduce dependence on any single buyer. Product diversification into geotextiles, filter fabrics, and composites can also tap demand less vulnerable to tariff shocks. Some of this will take years. New markets need relationship-building, new products require R&D investment, and buyer perception shifts with consistent delivery. But if the 50 per cent tariff has made one thing clear, it’s that trade relationships are never permanent. Buyers will go where the value makes sense; our job is to ensure India remains that place. The government’s planned Rs 200 billion Export Promotion Mission could be pivotal if designed right. Beyond disbursal, it should function as a think-and-do tank — offering technology support, market intelligence, skill mapping, and branding assistance. Used well, it could fuel both short-term survival and long-term transformation. For too long, India’s textile story has been about scale and cost. The next chapter must be about skill, creativity, and resilience. Tariffs can close doors, but they can also push us to open new ones. If we make the shift now, this 50 per cent duty might be remembered not as a blow, but as the moment India’s textile industry stopped competing just to survive — and started building to lead. About the author: Kanishk Maheshwari, Co-Founder & MD, Primus Partners, has over 15 years of work experience in the areas of industrial promotion, ease of doing business, MSME development, investment realisation, process re-engineering, Developing strategic quality frameworks, and Policy Advocacy in leading large-scale, multi-sectoral government engagements across India. He has also worked with multilateral organisations such as DFID, The World Bank, to various economic and development related projects in India. The post From tariffs to turning points in the textile trade appeared first on Indian Textile Journal.

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Future on the Hanger Today, the Indian garment industry hangs like a garment on a hanger-balanced between uncertainty and possibility. Divya Shetty explores how by identifying and seizing the right opportunities, India can not only stay ahead in the global race but also redefine its role as a leader in the world of apparel. India’s garment industry is currently navigating a turbulent environment with notable resilience. Export performance is showing signs of steady recovery, supported by a 7 per cent increase in textile and apparel shipments between April and October of FY 2024–25. This growth is largely fuelled by strong contributions from ready-made garments (RMG) and man-made fabrics. India continues to be amongst the top five textile exporter and commanding around 4 per cent of global market share (see Table 1). However, the industry is grappling with a range of complex challenges, including global trade uncertainty reflected in fluctuating shipping costs, inconsistent import duties, and evolving tariff structures. Suketu Shah, CEO, Vishal Fabrics, says, “While US tariffs on competitors like Bangladesh and Vietnam may benefit India, they also introduce volatility in sourcing and pricing. Meanwhile, domestic policy changes such as cotton MSP hikes are raising raw material costs, compelling manufacturers to lobby for import duty relief to stay competitive. On the global front, the India–UK FTA promises duty-free access for Indian apparel and textiles, potentially boosting exports to the UK by 30–45 per cent but the gains depend on smooth implementation and regulatory hygiene .” Table 1: Trade Statistics April-May 2025 This volatility has shifted manufacturing pressures onto cost structures and working capital.  According to Naveen Sainani, Founder and Chairman, Fritz Gaitri Clothing Co, “The market is largely MSME-based and primarily dependent on the domestic sector, which focuses heavily on high-street retail and local brands. However, with the rapid expansion of organised retail — especially brands like Zudio and others across Tier 1, 2, and 3 cities — competition has intensified. This has resulted in reduced footfall for high-street shops. On the other hand, many manufacturers are shifting to FOB (Free on Board) and private label business models, but these also operate on very thin margins. So overall, it’s a tough time for Indian garment manufacturers, both in the domestic and private label segments.” In domestic market, factors like labour shortages and inability to innovate and adapt are also one of the main obstacle in growth. As compared to domestic market, international market is still performing better. However, geopolitical factors have made exporters more cautious.  Here are a few factors that have made the export situation more challenging. Global trade uncertainty, manifested through fluctuating shipping costs, variable import duties, and shifting tariff regimes, has shifted manufacturing pressures onto cost structures and working capital. Suketu Shah, CEO, Vishal Fabrics Logistics in limbo India’s garment export market is currently treading through a phase of uncertainty, with stakeholders adopting a wait-and-watch approach. While the industry has weathered many storms in the past, the current environment feels particularly unpredictable. It is imperative that India negotiates trade terms that offer a level playing field. Additionally, exporters must closely monitor policy developments and diversify product offerings to stay competitive amidst any tariff realignment. Dr Mukesh Kansal, Chairman, CTA Apparels Bangladesh border blues: The India–Bangladesh trade relationship is in turmoil following a series of reciprocal restrictions. Bangladesh has suspended key imports like cotton yarn via land ports, prompting India to ban Bangladeshi RMG and jute through the same routes. Exports are now funnelled only via specific seaports, disrupting supply chains and escalating tensions. Rahul Mehta, Chief Mentor, CMAI, further highlights this uncertainty by stating, “At present, there isn’t any significant disruption. However, some major Indian brands and retailers that were previously sourcing from Bangladesh are now shifting part of their orders to Indian suppliers. This shift is primarily due to two reasons; With the latest restrictions, importing from Bangladesh has become approximately 4–5 per cent more expensive.                The lead time has increased by 8–10 days, which affects delivery schedules. As a result, many buyers are choosing to divert some of their sourcing to domestic vendors. India has restricted apparel imports from Bangladesh to only pass through southern ports, whereas earlier, shipments arrived via Kolkata, which was logistically cheaper. This new routing adds to transportation costs. Additionally, Bangladesh’s domestic manufacturing costs are steadily rising due to increasing minimum wages and other operational costs. Although it still remains cheaper than India, the gap is narrowing. Many manufacturers are shifting to FOB (Free on Board) and private label business models, but these also operate on very thin margins. So overall, it’s a tough time for Indian garment manufacturers, both in the domestic and private label segments. Naveen Sainani, Founder and Chairman, Fritz Gaitri Clothing Co Bangladesh has also faced allegations of re-exporting Chinese fabrics to India at lower prices. Sainani quotes, “There has been strong opposition to the duty-free import of garments from Bangladesh, which are largely made using Chinese fabrics and accessories. Bangladesh, which does not produce its own yarn or fabric, imports these materials — mainly from China — and then re-exports them as finished garments. These finished products are entering India duty-free, putting Indian manufacturers at a disadvantage.” Tariff tremors from the US: India’s garment industry is facing a wave of turbulence in the wake of revised US tariff rates. Exporters are grappling with mounting uncertainty, prompting strategic reassessment across production, pricing, and market outreach. As strategies evolve, the sector braces itself for potential disruption and reorganizes to safeguard its hard-won export resilience. Dr Mukesh Kansal, Chairman, CTA Apparels, views the situation with a mix of optimism and concern, as he remarks “The revised US tariff structures pose both opportunities and challenges. On one hand, any reduction in duties for Indian products can be a major booster for our exports to the United States, which remains our largest apparel market. On the other hand, if preferential tariffs are extended to competing nations without reciprocal benefits for India, we risk losing market share. It is imperative that India negotiates trade terms that offer a level playing field. Additionally, exporters must closely monitor policy developments and diversify product offerings to stay competitive amidst any tariff realignment.” In real terms, this affects our pricing strategy, inventory planning, and cash flow cycles. To adapt, the companies are exploring diversified markets, negotiating longer-term contracts with customers, and engaging with the government to fast-track tariff relief. Ultimately, the current environment demands both agile execution and close policymaker engagement. Shah explains, “As the head of a textile firm, I see the US revising its tariff structure as both a challenge and a strategic pivot point. The current 26 per cent reciprocal tariff on Indian textile imports significantly raises our landed costs. That spells immediate pressure on margins, either we absorb some of the burden, or we pass it on, risking US order volumes. Yet, these higher tariffs also lean in our favour compared to rival exporters- while we face 26 per cent, competitors like Vietnam (46 per cent), Bangladesh (37 per cent), and China (34 per cent) are hit harder. Clients in the US are starting to shift orders from those destinations to India, and our textile stocks even saw an uptick immediately after the announcement. However, uncertainty remains high. The US has paused the implementation of higher duties, and a narrow “mini-deal” with India could be reached by the end of July that may reduce our trade friction to under 20 per cent.” Impact of India-UK FTA: The UK–India Free Trade Agreement (FTA) represents a significant milestone for India’s garment industry. With the removal of tariffs ranging from 12–16 per cent on apparel exports to the UK, nearly all Indian garments will gain duty-free access—on par with competitors like Bangladesh and Vietnam. This is expected to drive a 30–50 per cent surge in exports to the UK over the next five years. The agreement presents a major opportunity for India’s key textile hubs, which are heavily SME-driven and provide employment to millions. Reduced duties will enhance the price competitiveness of Indian products, allowing exporters to improve profit margins or offer more competitive pricing. However, the agreement must clear Parliament in both countries, implementation could be delayed by up to a year. Exporters must also meet rules-of-origin and quality standards, and ensure compliance with UK regulations reopening trade channels. “Longer term, the FTA supports India’s ambition to double its trade with the UK to US $100–120 billion by 2030. The garment industry stands to gain on employment, investment, and global integration, provided it modernises production, strengthens compliance infrastructure, and prepares itself for a ramp-up in volume and quality standards in a competitive UK market,” comments Shah. Duty-free or reduced-duty access, especially compared to competitors like Bangladesh, China, Vietnam, and Cambodia, would offer Indian exporters a huge advantage. Rahul Mehta, Chief Mentor, CMAI Sainani also feels that the India-UK Free Trade Agreement will be a very positive move and is expected to benefit the Indian garment industry significantly, particularly in enhancing regional trade and competitiveness. According to Kansal, “The European Union and the United Kingdom stand out as promising alternatives. These markets offer transparent trade regimes and are placing heightened emphasis on sustainability, ethical sourcing, and compliance. Their structured and predictable procurement models, coupled with a growing demand for high-value products, make them compelling destinations for both risk diversification and long-term growth.” Beyond the commercial upside, the FTA is expected to generate employment, foster domestic value addition, and promote the adoption of sustainable and ethically aligned manufacturing practices in line with international benchmarks While the UK is not as large a market as the US or EU for Indian garments, it’s still a significant importer. Previously, countries like Bangladesh had a competitive edge in the UK market. Now, with the FTA, Indian exporters can compete more effectively. As for UK garments entering India, those are typically high-end products and unlikely to pose serious competition to domestic players. Eyeing India-US FTA: While discussions of India-US FTA have intensified in 2025—with multiple rounds of talks completed and a roadmap outlined by both governments—a full-fledged FTA remains under negotiation. An interim trade deal was expected, but recent reports suggest delays due to disagreements on tariff structures, labour standards, and digital trade rules. Both sides remain engaged, aiming for a mutually beneficial agreement, though the timeline for a formal FTA remains uncertain. But the industry is truly looking forward for this FTA as it can drastically change the landscape of Indian garment industry. Mehta explains, “If implemented, an India-US FTA would be a true game changer. Currently, the US accounts for 30–35 per cent of India’s total apparel exports. Duty-free or reduced-duty access, especially compared to competitors like Bangladesh, China, Vietnam, and Cambodia, would offer Indian exporters a huge advantage. Even MSMEs would benefit, as many exporters source their goods from them. Moreover, MSMEs that meet compliance standards could directly export to the US as well.” Kansal, on the other hand, points out that these on-going discussions are affecting the logistics of garment movement. He says, “The on-going ambiguity surrounding the India–US Free Trade Agreement is beginning to cast a shadow over India’s apparel export landscape. In the absence of a clear and consistent policy framework, global buyers are growing increasingly cautious. This hesitancy is translating into deferred commitments, shorter procurement cycles, and tighter lead times, making it harder for Indian exporters to remain price-competitive, especially against peers in nations with established trade agreements with the United States.” The domestic drag Growth has slowed. While the sector is still expanding, the expected pace hasn’t materialised. Consumers are increasingly moving toward value-for-money products, and even premium brands are resorting to discounts and aggressive promotions to stay competitive. This trend has led to a dip in realisations and margins. Here are a few factors that are impacting the domestic market; * Rising input costs: Fluctuating prices of raw materials like cotton and man-made fibres are squeezing profit margins. * Labour shortages: Key garment hubs such as Tiruppur and Ludhiana are facing a lack of skilled workers due to migration and demand-supply gaps. * Infrastructure bottlenecks: Inadequate logistics, transportation delays, and limited warehousing capacity increase production costs and lead times. * Limited access to finance: Many SMEs, which dominate the industry, struggle with working capital and access to credit, despite supportive schemes. * Policy and compliance challenges: Frequent changes in GST, quality control orders, and regulatory norms create uncertainty and increase compliance burden. * Changing consumer preferences: The rise in demand for sustainable and fast fashion is forcing manufacturers to innovate quickly, often at higher costs. * Digital and tech adaptation: Although many players are embracing automation and digitalisation, smaller units find it difficult to invest in new technology. * Impact on competitiveness: These domestic hurdles limit the industry’s ability to compete globally and make the most of emerging export opportunities. Future-proofing the industry To boost garment exports in today’s global trade scenario, we need a clear, multi-pronged approach. “First, simplify incentives like RoDTEP and RoSCTL, ensure these schemes are transparent, easily accessible, and linked to quick real-world benefits for exporters rather than complex paperwork. Second, to accelerate Free Trade Agreements, both the UK‑India and approaching US negotiations must be turned into firm reorder advantages by eliminating tariffs at the earliest. Tariff-free access will directly translate into improved order flow and pricing power. Third, investing in cluster-based infrastructure improvements, upgraded common facility centres, logistics hubs, and cold chains near garment clusters will reduce lead times and shipping costs. That builds a factory-ready ecosystem. Fourth, support technology adoption among SMEs, offer rebates for automation, compliance tools, and digital platforms so smaller units can meet global standards in quality and delivery,” concludes Shah. Measures such as strengthening trade diplomacy, leveraging Indian Missions for real-time market intelligence, addressing sudden non-tariff barriers, and facilitating dispute resolution for exporters can significantly streamline export processes. Combined with enhanced export incentives, effective FTAs, improved infrastructure, SME support, and proactive international engagement, these steps can position India’s garment industry for sustained global growth. Sainani also suggests that the government needs to focus on developing micro-clusters rather than only large-scale projects. While initiatives like the PLI scheme for investments above Rs 1 billion are welcome, about 95 per cent of Indian garment manufacturers fall under the MSME category. A targeted approach with policies, subsidies, and compliance support for MSMEs will go a long way in enhancing their capabilities, especially in exports. Empowering the MSME sector is critical for the overall growth of the Indian garment industry. Mehta expresses confidence in the future of the Indian garment industry, stating that, “The long-term future remains bright. India has a growing, young population, rising urbanisation, and a robust GDP growth trajectory. However, businesses will need to evolve. Models must shift, and companies must adapt to changing market dynamics. Those who fail to keep up may struggle, but the industry as a whole is poised for sustained growth.” The Indian garment industry stands at a promising juncture, with several opportunities ready to be tapped. With its vast workforce, strong manufacturing base, and growing global reputation for quality, India has the potential to become a global apparel hub. Rising demand for sustainable fashion, shifting sourcing preferences from global buyers, and ongoing trade negotiations like FTAs present a golden window. By investing in innovation, upskilling labour, adopting green technologies, and improving ease of doing business, the industry can unlock higher growth. Enhanced collaboration between government and industry stakeholders will further pave the way for a resilient ecosystem.  Today, the industry hangs like a garment on a hanger—balanced between uncertainty and possibility. By identifying and seizing the right opportunities, India can not only stay ahead in the global race but also redefine its role as a leader in the world of apparel. The post Future on the Hanger appeared first on Indian Textile Journal.

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Gunnar Meyer:  German engineering firms are at the forefront of Industry 4.0 For more than a century, the Monforts commitment to customers is to be helpful – accurate – fast – reliable and has shaped the image as a leading global supplier of textile machines and systems for the finishing and coating of woven and knitted goods as well as special applications almost one hundred agents represent Monforts in all textile centres around the world. Gunnar Meyer, Managing Director, Monforts, in this interview with Divya Shetty, highlights the strengths of the German textile machinery industry and discusses how his company is playing a role in its growth. What, in your view, makes the German textile sector globally significant and trusted? Over many decades the ‘Made in Germany’ label has become synonymous with reliability, advanced technology and durability. Engineering excellence and machinery innovation is a cornerstone of the country’s industrial strength. We are proud to have been a part of this sector since 1884 and successive waves of development. We continue looking ahead to find the best solutions for machine engineering that lead to fabric quality with added value and other customer benefits. Our key strengths include automation, digitalisation and sustainable manufacturing. German engineering firms are at the forefront of Industry 4.0 and integrating cyber-physical systems, IoT and AI into production processes. The sector’s strong export orientation has also made it a crucial contributor to Germany’s economic stability and global competitiveness. How is Monforts contributing to the growth and innovation of the German textile machinery industry, both domestically and internationally? Despite a challenging time, Monforts will continue investing in research and development and by adapting to market demands and focusing on sustainable practices we aim to remain a reliable partner for the textile industry. With a strong emphasis on responsiveness, technological advancements and environmental responsibility, we are well-positioned to navigate the uncertainties of 2025 and beyond. How do you see the German-Indian collaboration evolving, and what role has Monforts played in fostering this relationship? We have been active on the Indian market since the 1960s and have built up many successful partnerships over the years with many of India’s leading textile manufacturers. Our machinery portfolio range has been continuously expanded based on accumulated know-how, resulting in our dominant position in fabric finishing technologies. We have progressed since we first entered the Indian market through mechanical technologies to the first mass production lines, then to electronic drives and special machine construction and highly modular concepts. We are now truly in the digital age and committed to investing in the digitalisation of our technology, with concepts for further assuring precise quality control and energy monitoring. Could you share some of the recent technological advancements or innovations introduced by Monforts that reflect the strengths of German engineering in textiles? Our core strength is in the process knowledge we have acquired and can pass on to customers for improving quality results and efficiency. The Advanced Technology Center (ATC) at our headquarters in Germany is now pivotal to our operations. Over an area of 1,200 square metres, it houses two full MONTEX finishing lines, engineered to accommodate an extremely diverse range of processes, in addition to a THERMEX range for the continuous dyeing of denim and other woven fabrics, a full colour kitchen and a number of lab-scale systems for smaller batch trials. The ATC allows our customers – many of them from India – to test their own technical fabrics under fully confidential, industrial production conditions. Using the results from these trials, we are also able to make recommendations for improving many fabric finishes. What are Monforts’ strategic priorities and future plans for the Indian market, given its growing importance in textile manufacturing? Our core business continues to be in MONTEX stenters and THERMEX dyeing and curing lines. MONTEX stenters are the industry standard for the fabric finishing industry, particularly in the sectors of denim, home textiles and technical textiles, providing a number of advantages in terms of production throughput and especially in energy efficiency and savings. These machines remain unmatched in terms of their robustness and long service life, as well as resource-efficient productivity. We are seeing an increased interest from Indian companies in coating and the latest applications equipment, especially within the growing technical textile market. With an eye on the technical textiles market, we have recently introduced the MontexCoat, a multifunctional coating line which offers versatility with knife coating, magnet roller coating, rotary screen printing and other applications. As a fully automatic machine, it fully caters to customers who require such flexibility. For clients only using knife coating, Monforts has also launched the more cost-effective coaTTex coating line. Looking ahead, how is Monforts preparing to address the future needs of the global textile industry, particularly in terms of sustainability, digitisation, and automation? We are constantly updating and improving our machines and with the latest MONTEX stenters, for example, overall energy savings of up to 40 per cent can now be achieved compared to a conventional stenter with no heat recovery or energy optimisation measures. Another example is with the on-going development of the THERMEX universal hotflue line for continuous dyeing, curing and thermosolation. The THERMEX provides exceptional cost-effectiveness when dyeing both large and small batches of woven fabrics due to a quick and economical one-pass pad-dry and wash off process. For our existing customers, we are also prioritising modernisation and upgrades that can make a significant impact in terms of efficiency. The retrofitting of specific modules with new control and drive technology can have a significant impact on the performance of an existing line. The Monforts universal Energy Tower, for example, is a flexible, free-standing air/air heat exchanger for recovering the heat from the exhaust air flow of thermal processes. It can result in a reduction of up to 30 per cent in the energy consumed by a line, depending on the exhaust air volume and operating temperature. The Monforts Eco Booster, which can be completely integrated into the chamber design of a MONTEX stenter, is another retrofitting option. As a single state-of-the-art heat recovery system with automatic cleaning, it can be added to existing ranges. For ranges of up to eight chambers, only one module is necessary to achieve very significant energy savings. The Eco Booster consumes only minimal amounts of water during the cleaning cycle and the entire process is controlled and monitored automatically. There are also considerable benefits to be gained from bringing a machine’s HMI – human machine interface – up to date, as well as with new frequency converter options. Monforts is now working with business partners and textile producers across all industries to use AI to increase operational efficiency and transform the customer experience. Please contact us to discover the ways AI, accelerated computing and simulation can be integrated into products, services and operations. The post Gunnar Meyer:  German engineering firms are at the forefront of Industry 4.0 appeared first on Indian Textile Journal.

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Martin Bentz: We don’t just claim performance – we prove it Outlast Technologies is the leading specialist in temperature regulation within the textile sector. With unmatched experience and the most comprehensive product portfolio on the market, Outlast deliver comfort, performance, and efficiency across a wide range of applications. The company is making it easier and easier for its customers to integrate their technologies. For example, with their product fresh2SKIN®, a simple dip bath is all it takes to apply the technology. Recently, Outlast has expanded into the field of insulation, developing innovative solutions that incorporate fabrics and fibers with an exceptionally high aerogel content – achieving a new level of efficiency in lightweight thermal insulation. Their mission is clear: To create meaningful value through intelligent, science-based materials that are thoroughly tested and trusted by partners and end users alike. Outlast stands for proven innovation in both temperature management and advanced textile insulation. Martin Bentz, CEO, Outlast Technologies GmbH, in this interview with Divya Shetty, discusses the various solutions offered by the company and its contributions to the technical textiles industry. Outlast is well-known for its temperature-regulating technology. Could you elaborate on the range of products and fibre technologies the company currently offers across different industries? Outlast offers a remarkably broad range of products, reflecting the versatility of our temperature-regulating solutions. Our core business lies in the bedding, apparel, and footwear industries, where comfort and thermal balance are essential. Beyond these segments, we also serve more specialised applications. For instance, our technology is used in base layers for professional motorsport drivers, where thermal management plays a critical role in performance. We also support orthopedic applications – such as prosthetics – where temperature control can greatly enhance wearer comfort and skin health. Even in protective gear, like bulletproof vests, Outlast technologies help improve comfort by reducing perspiration. This not only makes the gear more wearable over long periods but also contributes to maintaining the wearer’s focus and endurance in high-stress environments. In short, our temperature-regulating solutions are as diverse as the challenges they help solve – spanning from everyday comfort to mission-critical performance. What is your assessment of the current state of the global technical textiles industry, especially in sectors like performance wear, home textiles, and automotive? While many observers speak of a weakening textile industry, we at Outlast see a different picture – especially in the technical textiles segment. In fact, with global temperatures on the rise, the demand for temperature-regulating materials and solutions has significantly increased, and we’re benefiting from that trend. People are actively looking for ways to better manage temperature fluctuations in their daily lives – for example, moving from an air-conditioned office into a sun-heated car without breaking into a sweat. That’s exactly where our technologies come in. Outlast provides effective solutions to these real-world comfort challenges, and both our customers and end consumers truly value that. Is Outlast currently offering its solutions or technologies to the Indian market? If yes, which sectors or product categories are showing the strongest demand? Yes, we are active in the Indian market – primarily in the bedding industry, which makes perfect sense given the country’s consistently high temperatures. Climate has a direct impact on sleep quality, and that’s where our technology brings real value. When the environment is too warm, people tend to sleep restlessly, tossing and turning throughout the night, with shorter deep-sleep phases. Our temperature-regulating materials help counteract this by absorbing excess body heat and releasing it when needed, creating a more stable microclimate around the sleeper. Leading bedding brands in India have recognised this and are successfully integrating our technology into their products. The demand is strong, and we see great potential for continued growth in this sector. With the rising focus on sustainability and performance, which fibre technologies or innovations are trending in the technical textiles space globally? How is Outlast aligning with these trends? The technical textiles industry is clearly moving toward solutions that combine high performance with verified sustainability. From our perspective, the era of vague marketing claims is over – brands today want real solutions backed by real evidence. At Outlast, scientific validation has always been a core part of our identity, ever since our origins with NASA technology. We don’t just claim performance – we prove it. To ensure consistency and reliability, every Outlast product is tested according to EN and ASTM standards before it reaches the market. This guarantees that our solutions meet strict performance and quality benchmarks – not just in theory, but in real-world use. Apart from temperature control, our technology also offers valuable side benefits. Even a simple dip-coating process can significantly enhance a fabric’s effusivity value, meaning it feels noticeably cooler to the touch. We’ve also taken concrete steps to reduce our environmental footprint. We’ve transitioned the core of our technology from paraffin-based materials to natural waxes, and we’re actively developing high-performance insulation fibers made from renewable raw materials like wood and sand. Can you share some insight into this research and innovation efforts at Outlast? Yes, sure. One of our most groundbreaking developments is Aersulate® – a fibretechnology that integrates 50% aerogel by volume directly into the fibrestructure. Originally developed for NASA, aerogel is an ultra-light, highly effective insulating material with an air content of up to 99%, making it one of the best thermal insulators available. By embedding it within fibers, we’ve created insulation that is up to 35% lighter than conventional materials – without sacrificing warmth. Unlike traditional insulation, Aersulate® maintains its performance even under pressure, making it especially well-suited for high-stress areas such as the knees or elbows in apparel and workwear, and equally valuable for use in the bedding industry. Sustainability is also a core focus: our fibers are made from wood-based viscose, and the aerogel is derived from quartz sand, offering a renewable and animal-friendly alternative to down. In addition, we have developed fabrics with an exceptionally high and previously unseen aerogel content, unlocking new possibilities for insulation in space-constrained applications – enabling thermal protection in areas where it was previously not feasible. What are Outlast’s future plans for global expansion, and are there specific geographies or industries you’re targeting for growth? With our Aersulate® fibers and fabrics, we’re opening the door to entirely new markets and application areas – that’s where our current focus lies. These innovations allow us to bring high-performance insulation to sectors and use cases where it simply wasn’t possible before, due to space, weight, or compression constraints. Looking ahead, our global expansion efforts will center around industries where lightweight, sustainable insulation is in high demand – including performance apparel, workwear, automotive, and bedding. Geographically, we see strong potential not only in Europe and North America, but also in emerging markets like India and Southeast Asia, where climate and comfort needs are driving demand for smart textile solutions. India is emerging as a key hub for technical textiles. Are there any plans to strengthen Outlast’s footprint in the Indian market through partnerships, manufacturing, or localisation of solutions? Indeed, the Indian market is vast and holds significant untapped potential for us. We’re well aware of the growing importance of India as a hub for technical textiles, and we see strong momentum – particularly in sectors like bedding, performance wear, and functional fabrics. The post Martin Bentz: We don’t just claim performance – we prove it appeared first on Indian Textile Journal.

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The shifting global appetite for Indian Textiles: Trends and Opportunities Rajeev Gupta suggests, this is India’s window to claim a larger role. But ambition must be matched with action. The world is in the midst of a quiet but significant shift in the way it views and sources textiles. This change is not sudden. It is a gradual evolution driven by new trade realities, changing consumer consciousness and the growing importance of sustainability. For India, this transformation brings both promise and responsibility. Responsibility to uphold the centuries-old legacy of craftsmanship while meeting modern demands of scale, quality and environmental care. India has long been a recognised player in the global textile and apparel space. The country holds a 4.2 per cent share in the global textile and apparel trade, with apparel alone accounting for 3 per cent. In the financial year 2023–24, India exported textiles worth 34.4 billion dollars. Its top export destinations are the United States, the European Union, the United Arab Emirates, Bangladesh and even China itself. Yet despite this standing, India has never fully capitalised on its potential to be a leader in this field. Today, as global demand patterns shift and buyers look for more than just cost advantages, India’s opportunity to reposition itself has never been clearer. The global appetite is no longer going to get satisfied by low-cost mass production alone, it demands stories of artisanship, ecological mindfulness and fair practices woven into every thread. A world redefining its textile priorities The global textiles and apparel market is projected to touch 1.53 trillion dollars by 2033, growing at a rate of nearly 5.8 per cent every year. Behind this growth lies a fundamental change in priorities. Price competitiveness is still important, but it no longer reigns supreme. Buyers in key markets such as the United States and the European Union, which together account for a significant share of global textile imports, are now driven by other concerns. They want supply chains that are reliable, sustainable and transparent. They want production processes that meet rigorous environmental and labour standards. They want traceability, certifications and proof of responsible sourcing. China remains the largest supplier, holding 30 per cent of the global apparel trade. But the ground under China’s feet is slowly shifting. Rising labour costs, supply chain disruptions and geopolitical frictions are forcing global retailers and fashion brands to rethink their dependence on one country. This has opened the door for other nations. India is among the few that can walk through this door with scale and ambition. India’s inherent strengths are hard to overlook. It has a rich supply of cotton and jute. It has a vast domestic market. Its manufacturing ecosystem spans the entire value chain from fibre to garment. But what matters now is whether India can convert these strengths into globally competitive capabilities that meet the new demands of buyers. Sustainability as a global imperative Sustainability is no longer an option. It has become a non-negotiable requirement for those who want to stay relevant in the global textile trade. Brands and retailers are under intense scrutiny from regulators, investors and customers who want to see real action on climate and social responsibility. The demand is clear: use recycled fibres, produce eco-certified yarns, reduce water and energy consumption. This will ensure fair labour practices and provide full traceability of materials. For Indian textile manufacturers, this shift brings both a challenge and an opportunity. The challenge is that most of India’s apparel units are small or medium-sized businesses. In fact, more than 80 percent of them fall into this category. Many of these units do not have enough money or resources to invest in green technologies or get important global certifications like GOTS or OEKO-TEX. The opportunity, however, lies in the growing appetite for sustainable products. Global buyers are eager for partners who can provide organic cotton, recycled polyester and innovative eco-friendly blends. India is among the largest producers of organic cotton. Its traditional strengths in natural fibres can be turned into a competitive advantage if supported by modern processing and certification systems. Sustainability also brings the promise of higher value realisation. Products made from recycled or certified materials fetch premium prices and offer long-term supplier relationships with top global brands. This is the new playing field where India must compete. Policy support and export readiness Recognising this shift, the Indian government has taken measures to build an ecosystem that supports global competitiveness. The Production Linked Incentive (PLI) scheme is one such initiative aimed at boosting the production of man-made fibres and technical textiles. This is important because while India has excelled in cotton, global demand is moving towards synthetic and value-added fabrics, especially for industrial and technical applications. The PM MITRA scheme is another significant step. It envisions seven integrated textile parks that offer state-of-the-art infrastructure, common processing facilities and better logistics connectivity. This could reduce production and transport costs and will improve turnaround time, which can eventually help India become a preferred sourcing destination. Efficient logistics matter in a world where buyers expect just-in-time deliveries and quick replenishment cycles. Skill development is also on the agenda. The SAMARTH scheme is designed to train workers in modern textile production techniques. A skilled workforce is essential because the future of textiles will be shaped by automation, smart machinery and green processes that require new expertise. However, these policy efforts must overcome structural challenges. One of the biggest is the high cost of capital. Interest rates in India hover around 9 percent, significantly higher than China or Vietnam, where rates range between 3 and 4.5 percent. This makes it expensive for Indian manufacturers to invest in new technologies, expand capacities or improve sustainability credentials. Unless this gap is addressed, whether through interest subsidies, lower borrowing costs or foreign direct investment, India’s textile industry may struggle to scale up to global expectations. The rise of value added and technical textiles One of the most promising developments in global textile demand is the growing importance of value-added and technical textiles. Buyers are moving away from generic, mass-produced fabrics towards differentiated products that offer functionality, innovation and performance. These include medical textiles, geotextiles for construction and protective fabrics for industrial use. The market for such textiles is expanding rapidly and India is beginning to recognise its potential. The domestic market for technical textiles is already worth 22 billion dollars and is set to grow further. The government has identified this as a sunrise sector and is encouraging research and investment. Companies that can develop high-performance fabrics with specialised properties stand to gain not only in the domestic market but also in exports, where demand is surging. Similarly, the global fashion industry’s shift towards sustainable fashion is creating new openings for India. Major brands are sourcing garments made from organic fibres, biodegradable materials and low-impact dyes. India’s strength in organic cotton, coupled with its tradition of natural dyeing and handloom techniques, can be turned into premium products for niche global markets. But to truly benefit from these opportunities, India must invest in technology, innovation and global marketing. It must move beyond the perception of being a low-cost supplier and establish itself as a partner that offers quality, creativity and responsibility. Challenges that cannot be ignored The road to becoming a preferred global supplier is not without obstacles. India’s textile industry remains fragmented because of thousands of small units operating without standardisation or modernisation. This results in uneven quality, inconsistent delivery times and low productivity compared to competitors like Bangladesh or Vietnam, which have built large-scale, export-oriented apparel clusters. Infrastructure gaps also persist. Port congestion, high logistics costs and bureaucratic customs procedures make it harder for Indian exporters to meet the quick turnaround expectations of global buyers. The promise of PM MITRA parks can help, but broader reforms in transport and trade facilitation are necessary. Most importantly, the lack of affordable capital continues to limit investment in sustainability and modern technology. Without financial support mechanisms such as green financing, interest subvention, or technology upgrade funds, small and medium exporters will struggle to meet the new demands of global markets. Buyer perception is another challenge. India is still largely seen as a reliable but basic supplier. This image needs to change. The country must present itself as a source of innovation, certified sustainability and technical excellence. This requires active branding, participation in international trade fairs and partnerships with global retailers to showcase India’s evolving capabilities. A defining moment for India’s textile future The elements of this transformation are already visible. India has the raw material base, the skilled workforce, the policy support, and the growing expertise in sustainability and technical textiles. What it needs now is focused execution. The MSME sector must be brought into the fold of modern practices. Infrastructure and logistics must improve. The cost of capital must fall to competitive levels. And the world must see India not as a backup supplier but as a partner of first choice. The journey will not be simple. The challenges are real and the global competition is fierce. But if India stays committed to this path, the rewards will be lasting. The country can secure a larger share of the global textile and apparel market, meet the rising demands of sustainability and innovation, and ensure that its textile industry plays a defining role in the future of global trade. A perspective from the industry The global market is no longer asking who can supply the cheapest T-shirt or the fastest-made bedsheet. The questions today are deeper. They are about how responsibly the cotton was grown, whether the factory met water conservation norms, and if every link in the chain can be traced and verified. For Indian exporters, this represents a turning point. India is no longer competing with just price; it is competing with conscience, technology and credibility. Buyers are ready to shift orders from old strongholds like China, but only if they find reliable and forward-looking partners elsewhere. This is India’s window to claim a larger role. But ambition must be matched with action. The industry knows that unless India builds scale, invests in green technology and creates integrated world-class facilities, this opportunity may slip away. The government’s schemes are timely, but their impact will depend on how quickly and effectively they reach the small and medium players. The decision rests now with Indian manufacturers, policymakers and investors. If they align their efforts, India’s textile sector could well define the next chapter of global trade. This is not merely the future of fabric. It is the fabric of India’s future. About the author: Rajeev Gupta is the Joint Managing Director of RSWM. RSWM, the flagship company of LNJ Bhilwara Group, is one of the leading manufacturers and exporters of synthetic, cotton and blended spun yarns in India. Under the leadership of Riju Jhunjhunwala, Chairman and Managing Director of RSWM, the textile company exports a wide range of fabric and yarns to over 70 countries across the globe. The post The shifting global appetite for Indian Textiles: Trends and Opportunities appeared first on Indian Textile Journal.

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Men’s Formalwear Market in India: Challenges and Opportunities We have witnessed a significant shift in consumer preferences toward more relaxed, functional, and versatile clothing, informs Ketan Pishe The men’s formalwear market is about evolving lifestyles, cultural shifts and economic transformation. To understand where the men’s formalwear business stands today, it is essential to look at the underlying trends that have been there and changing the market space over the last few decades. Before the 70s, most men relied heavily on local tailors for their clothing needs. The 1970s marked the beginning of the ready-to-wear revolution in India, making it an important decade to understand the evolution of the formalwear market. Earlier, people would choose the fabric, then visit a tailor and even wait for months for their garments to be stitched. This was a very time consuming yet deeply personalised process but then ready-made garments were very rare and limited in availability, also people did not prefer that. The ready-to-wear business really took off in India in the 70s, where ready-to-wear shirts and trousers started becoming common. As urbanisation grew and lifestyles became faster-paced, the concept of ready-to-wear clothing started gaining popularity. For men, this shift was most visible in the rise of formal shirts and trousers that were readily available in retail outlets. These garments offered convenience and consistency, making them a practical alternative to bespoke tailoring. Interestingly, the early days of ready-to-wear in India were almost entirely focused on formalwear. Formalwear wasn’t just style; it was a requirement for office-going men. In many ways, this era laid the foundation for the formalwear market in India. It introduced the idea that formal dressing could be standardised, scaled, and sold in stores, sparking a transformation that would continue for decades. What began as a convenience-driven shift eventually gave rise to some of India’s most respected menswear brands and cemented the role of formalwear in professional identity. Subsequently, we have seen a plethora of brands being born in the Indian market: casual brands, formal brands and others taking up space within the market. Formalwear expanded hugely, especially in the branded space. At P N RAO for example, we were at one point a multi-brand store stocking many of these brands that were making waves in the market alongside tailoring which was always present. Men’s formalwear really hit a peak, especially with formal shirts, formal trousers and suits being used in offices across the world. This was a very important part of dressing and showcasing. There was a whole point about “power dressing” in the 90s which really set the stage. During the 90s and early 2000s, power dressing became significant. Even in IT offices or new kinds of firms, formal dress codes and ties were made compulsory. After 2010, a big change was seen worldwide more on the side of casualisation. It was almost a rebellion, with casualisation becoming a big thing. Now we have a wide range of casualwear, streetwear, smart casual, street casual. This has been a social trend that has led to reduced use of formalwear and increased adoption of casualwear. There’s been a lot of innovation in fabrics and design across the board, which has supported this casualisation trend. People want to dress more comfortably and more easily and this has led to a reduction in the formal business wear clothing segment, especially in the men’s market in India and globally. This poses a challenge for men’s formalwear in India and abroad. But it doesn’t mean it has died; rather, it’s reinventing itself in various forms as it has done over the years. Specifically, if we talk about the suit — the suit is over 160 years old as a product. A suit means the same fabric is used to make both the jacket and the trousers. The suit has undergone several changes in the past 160+ years from, tailcoats to frock coats to the suits we see today – longer jackets, shorter jackets, slim fit, baggy fit, heavier fabrics, lighter fabrics, three-piece or five-piece suits. We’ve seen all these variations. The suit exemplifies formal dressing. Today, suits have evolved beautifully. Even if you have trousers with a drawstring and a jacket with pockets like a bomber, both in the same material, it still showcases itself as a suit in a modern form. That reinvention is very interesting. The classical suit is still very much alive and used, especially when it’s important for business meetings, board meetings and it’s still relevant. It’s interesting to see that even someone from the IT sector like Mark Zuckerberg, who is famous for his hoodie, wore a suit when it mattered. When he interviewed Prime Minister Modi, he wore a suit. When representing his company in the U.S. Senate he wore a suit. At weddings, too. When he was in India at the Ambani wedding, he was wearing a formalwear. People eventually realise that dressing for the occasion is still very important. Even those who think dressing doesn’t matter eventually realise that it does. Dressing appropriately shows preparedness and seriousness about the occasion be it a board meeting, a wedding, a family function, or a graduation. Yes, there are challenges, and people in the formalwear business should not ignore them. It’s important for brands to understand these challenges, the changes in society and what people now prefer to wear.  One major shift influencing these choices is the weather, which is changing drastically. Overall, it’s getting warmer globally. Winters may get sharper in some areas and the rainy season is changing. This also plays a huge role in what people wear. For example, suits have become much lighter than they were 20 years ago. People don’t want to be weighed down by heavy garments. Earlier, particularly in Western countries, it was very common for men to wear heavier fabrics and suits even indoors because the climate was generally milder. This cultural norm was even seen in professional and social spaces where dressing in heavy, structured garments was seen as a sign of sophistication. However, this condition has drastically changed, especially in the Indian context. Today, with rising global temperatures and unpredictable weather patterns, climate is one of the most influential factors in how people dress. In India, apart from the northern regions that experience a defined winter, most states endure long, harsh summers with high humidity and soaring temperatures. This makes traditional, heavy formalwear impractical to wear on a daily basis. While air-conditioning is more widely available in offices and some homes, it is not a consistent or sustainable solution. As a result, there is a growing demand seen for lighter and breathable clothing that offers the aesthetic of formalwear without the discomfort. Understanding such underlying lifestyle and climate trends is essential to staying relevant for brands and manufacturers in today’s fashion landscape. The future of formalwear lies in innovation through fabric technologies, smart tailoring, and modern silhouettes that align with both climate realities and evolving consumer expectations. This is important to not only meet current needs but also lead the industry into its next chapter of growth. In today’s world, men are increasingly open to style guidance, grooming advice, and curated fashion experiences. The modern male consumer is far more aware of trends and personal presentation than ever before. Social media has played a pivotal role in this shift. They follow social media and the influencers. They try to copy their style and are increasingly conscious about how they appear on social media and in public. In such environment, market players that offer value beyond the product are likely to build long-term loyalty with the customers and the ones who provide in-store styling consultations, personalised recommendations, or digital lookbooks help customers make confident style choices. These added services don’t just enhance the shopping experience but also create trust and encourage repeat engagement. Men today are not just looking for clothing—they are looking for reassurance that they look their best. They are not just buying suits rather they are buying confidence. Brands that recognise and support this mindset will lead the way forward. Men’s formalwear also plays a big dominant role in the Indian wedding economy. Indian weddings are grand multi-day celebrations which are full of tradition and social gathering and every piece of wedding carries deep symbolic and aesthetic value. For men, especially grooms and immediate family members, dressing well for each function has become an important part of the celebration. Functions such as engagement ceremonies, sangeets, cocktail nights, receptions and even pre-wedding shoots demand distinctive looks, often leading to the purchase of multiple outfits. While ethnic wear like sherwanis and kurta sets remain popular, tailored suits, bandhgalas, tuxedos, and Indo-western ensembles have emerged as equally important components of the wedding wardrobe. Today’s grooms are investing in formalwear that makes a statement. They want the attire that reflects their personality and looks modern and stylish. Many are choosing suits that offer impeccable fit, custom design elements and luxury fabrics that stand out. Both, bespoke suits and made to measure formalwear are on the rise with weddings becoming more style conscious and globally influenced. For brands, this presents a significant opportunity to offer curated collections, personalised styling services to their customers and to build trust. We have witnessed a significant shift in consumer preferences toward more relaxed, functional, and versatile clothing, while the core values that have long defined formalwear sophistication, polish, confidence, and preparedness remain as relevant as ever. The men’s formalwear market is in transition and at a unique crossroads. So yes, there are both challenges and opportunities. The real opportunity lies in reinvention. About the author: Ketan Pishe’s accomplishments and expertise have been instrumental in shaping the success of P N RAO. His educational background and experience in sourcing and merchandising, marketing, and tech savvy skills have equipped him to perform his role as a partner with distinction, contributing significantly to the brand’s identity, business expansion, and product diversification. His unwavering dedication and commitment to excellence have been invaluable to the company, and he remains a force to be reckoned with in the fashion industry. The post Men’s Formalwear Market in India: Challenges and Opportunities appeared first on Indian Textile Journal.

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Innovations in eco textile colouration Artificial intelligence (AI) and machine learning (ML) are changing dye formulation and colour management in the textile industry, informs Chaitanya Deshpande and Prof Ashok Athalye. The global textile industry is undergoing a significant change toward sustainable, smart, and flexible dyeing technologies. Traditional dyeing methods, known for high water use, energy consumption, and chemical waste, are being reviewed in favour of low-impact synthetic dyes, bioengineered colourants, and improved application techniques. The development of salt-free reactive dyes and low-temperature disperse dyes has already started to lower waste levels and boost process efficiency. New technologies like supercritical CO₂ dyeing, which was initially used for polyester, are now being adapted for cotton and polyester-cotton blends through new dye chemistries. This change greatly reduces water and chemical use. At the same time, thermochromic, photochromic, and pH-sensitive dyes are allowing textiles to react to environmental changes. They find uses in camouflage, sportswear, and medical monitoring. In biotechnology, genetically modified microbes and enzyme-based dye production are taking the place of petrochemical dye methods. This shift offers biodegradable, circular options that lessen environmental damage. Meanwhile, AI and machine learning tools are improving colour formulation, boosting first-shot match accuracy, and speeding up production processes. This helps create a more data-driven and sustainable dyeing environment. These innovations are not only changing how textiles are dyed but also preparing the industry for a stronger, environmentally aware, and technology-driven future. Sustainable and eco-friendly dyes Bioengineered dyes are changing the textile industry by using biotechnology to create sustainable options instead of synthetic dyes. In addition to these developments, EarthColors technology represents another important movement toward sustainability in textiles. This technology takes non-edible agricultural waste, like nutshells, leaves, and other plant materials, to create natural dyes. Together, these advancements are shaping a more sustainable and responsible textile industry. Digital textile printing moves toward sustainability Digital textile printing (DTP) is changing the textile industry by providing a sustainable option to traditional wet processing. New pigment-based inks now enable water-free printing on different fabrics, eliminating the need for steaming or washing. This greatly cuts down on water, energy, and chemical use, making it perfect for eco-friendly brands and small-batch production. The technology also supports mass customisation and quicker design turnaround, meeting the needs of today’s fashion and interior markets. With ongoing advances in printhead technology and ink chemistry, DTP is poised to become a key part of greener textile manufacturing. Advancing SCO₂ dyeing for versatile textile applications Supercritical CO₂ dyeing has long been known as a sustainable method for colouring polyester with disperse dyes. It is now making progress in more complex fibre systems. Recent developments show its successful use with natural fibres and polyester-cotton blends. This success comes from hybrid dye chemistries, like reactive-disperse mixtures, and process changes designed for fibre compatibility. By focusing on molecular dye design, substrate pretreatment, and controlled supercritical conditions, researchers have achieved good dye penetration and fixation without water or typical additives. These innovations mark an important move toward closed-loop, water-free dyeing for both synthetic and cellulosic textiles. They position supercritical CO₂ technology as a scalable and environmentally friendly option compared to traditional water-based dyeing methods. Smart Chromic dyes for functional textiles * Thermochromic and pH-sensitive dyes are a type of colourant that reacts to different stimuli. They are increasingly used in camouflage systems, sportswear, and medical textiles. Thermochromic dyes change colour with temperature changes. This property makes them great for dynamic camouflage and wearable sensors. * Photochromic dyes respond to UV light, allowing them to change colour reversibly. This makes them useful for outdoor clothing and controlling visibility. pH-sensitive dyes react to shifts in acidity or alkalinity. They are used in medical textiles to track wound conditions or skin health. These smart dyes let textiles do more than just look good. They provide interactive, adaptable, and diagnostic features that align with the future of smart materials. Biotechnology-driven colorants Biotechnology is changing textile colouration by developing bio-based and enzyme-synthesised dyes. Scientists use genetically engineered microorganisms like bacteria and algae to produce pigments in a scalable, non-toxic, and resource-efficient way. This new method greatly reduces the use of harmful chemicals and lowers water and energy consumption compared to traditional dyeing methods. At the same time, enzyme-catalysed dye synthesis is becoming a sustainable option to regular petrochemical processes. This method allows for precise and controlled reactions under mild conditions. Together, these advancements show a shift towards biodegradable, circular, and environmentally friendly dyeing systems driven by biotechnology. AI and Machine Learning in textile dyeing and colour management Artificial intelligence (AI) and machine learning (ML) are changing dye formulation and colour management in the textile industry. New tools now allow for precise colour prediction, better formulation, and smart recipe correction. This reduces resource use and speeds up production. One notable innovation is Datacolor Match Textile. This software quickly and accurately matches colours using special algorithms and colour libraries. It improves the accuracy of first shot matches and creates the most cost-effective dye recipes for both exhaust and continuous dyeing. By cutting down on trial-and-error, reducing waste, and boosting efficiency, AI-powered tools like Match Textile help make textile coloration more sustainable and based on data. References: * Colorifix. (2024). Colorifix. Colorifix.com. https://www.colorifix.com/ * huue. (n.d.). Huue. https://www.huue.bio/ * Wang, H., & Memon, H. (2023). Digital Textile Printing. Elsevier. About the authors: Chaitanya Deshpande is a research scholar pursuing PhD in Textile Chemistry at the Institute of Chemical Technology, Mumbai, having industrial experience in the textile colourant organisation. Prof Ashok Athalye is a faculty and Head of the Department of fibres and textile processing technology at the Institute of Chemical Technology, Mumbai The post Innovations in eco textile colouration appeared first on Indian Textile Journal.

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Dollar Industries: Catalysing Change in Indian Hosiery With a legacy spanning over five decades in the hosiery industry, Dollar Industries continues to strengthen its presence in India while steadily expanding across global markets. In this feature, Divya Shetty delves into how the company is not only growing its footprint but also diversifying its product range—from innerwear to outerwear. Founded in 1972, by the Chairman Din Dayal Gupta, Dollar Industries is making waves in the hosiery market with a 15 per cent market share. The company spans across 29 states. And their reach doesn’t stop there. As the go-to Indian innerwear brand in the UAE and the Middle East, Dollar is making a mark in spots like Oman, Jordan, Qatar, and beyond. Ajay Patodia, CFO, Dollar Industries, walks us through the company’s expansion plans, and how is Dollar strengthening the hosiery sector in India. Operations at a glance The overall hosiery market is valued at approximately Rs 170 billion for men’s innerwear and around Rs 560 billion for the women’s segment. Over the last four years, the sector has registered a CAGR of nearly 7 per cent. Within the Rs 170 billion men’s market, about half is organised. Dollar’s revenue in the organised sector was Rs 17.10 billion in FY25. Their presence spans both innerwear and outerwear, with innerwear contributing 80 per cent of their sales and outerwear making up the remaining 20 per cent. The athleisure segment, in particular, is growing rapidly with a year-on-year rise of 30 to 40 per cent. Patodia mentions, “We operate manufacturing units in four major locations: Kolkata, and three facilities in Tamil Nadu—Tiruppur, Erode, and Dindigul. Our Ludhiana plant focuses on the thermal garment range, while Delhi handles socks and women’s wear. We also manage 20 depots across India. Last year, we produced 30 crore units and registered sales volume of 250.47 million pieces.” In 2020, during the pandemic, Dollar restructured its brand architecture through a digital relaunch. Earlier, the company had 15 to 16 sub-brands, which created confusion among customers. Now, the company operates under a streamlined six-category structure. “Looking ahead, we plan to open 50 exclusive brand outlets (EBOs), especially in South India. This is strategic, as unlike some competitors who thrive in organised retail, we follow a distributor-led model. Each distributor connects with over 100 retailers, which means we work on tighter margins compared to brands that sell directly at MRP,” informs Patodia. Sustainability in focus The textile industry continues to grapple with massive amounts of textile waste ending up in landfills. However, Dollar has introduced a solution to address this challenge. Patodia adds, “We have implemented Project Lakshya, which has mapped about 2.9 lakh retailers across India, of which 74,000 are active users. This model is unique—it allows retailers to place micro-orders, even for as few as four pieces, and receive delivery. This lean distribution model has proven highly successful and has been running for four years now.” In addition to this, Dollar has made significant investments in renewable energy. The company operates an 8 MW solar plant in Tiruppur and four windmills located in coastal regions of Tamil Nadu, generating approximately 170 lakh units annually. The company is also considering expanding its solar capacity by 1 to 2 MW to enhance cost efficiency. Dollar’s market impact According to the Wazir report, the Indian hosiery sector is growing at a CAGR of 7 per cent. Innerwear, often referred to as a second skin, is a necessity, so demand will remain consistent. Patodia says, “From our perspective, the market outlook is positive. Raw material prices are expected to stabilise over the next two years, which will support healthy growth. Dollar is actively contributing to industry expansion through Project Lakshya. Wherever we have implemented this model—be it Rajasthan, Karnataka, or Haryana—we’ve witnessed stronger performance and better margins compared to our competitors.” Last year, the company expanded its spinning capacity from 22,000 spindles to 42,000 spindles. Additionally, they scaled up their warehousing capabilities to prepare for increased demand. The current infrastructure allows Dollar to ramp up its production by 20 to 25 per cent should the market require it. Performance and projections Dollar Industries achieved an overall growth of 10 per cent last year, which is well above the industry average of 7 per cent. This positions Dollar Industries as the fastest-growing company in the Indian hosiery segment, with an 11 per cent CAGR. For the current year, the company is targeting a volume growth of 12 to 13 per cent. A key focus area for them is to reduce their working capital cycle. “While our peers operate with 180 to 231 working capital days, we have brought ours down to 160 days, and we aim to further reduce this to 140 days,” adds Patodia. Leading product ranges “About 80 per cent of our revenue is generated from the men’s segment, followed by 15 per cent from women’s wear and 5 per cent from kidswear. The women’s segment is particularly important as it delivers higher EBITDA margins,” informs Patodia. Dollar Industries recently introduced athleisure products for women, which is already showing promise. The company is targeting a 20 to 25 per cent growth in this category. On the men’s side, Dollar is also expanding its athleisure range to cater to growing demand. Global expansion strategy Dollar Industries’ export performance has been modest, but they are seeing strong demand from Nigeria, South Africa, and Myanmar. These regions offer promising growth potential, and Dollar’s goal is to achieve double-digit growth from these markets. “We are also focusing on the Gulf countries—Oman and Kuwait are currently key export destinations. However, we don’t cater extensively to the US and UK markets. This is primarily because our core product range is 100 per cent cotton, which is not suited to the colder climates in those regions. These markets prefer cotton blended with nylon, which we currently do not offer,” concludes Patodia. The post Dollar Industries: Catalysing Change in Indian Hosiery appeared first on Indian Textile Journal.

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Export growth…Mission India! Step out of the comfort zone and venture into the growth zone, says We at Suvin are on the verge of completing 15 years of consulting services, witnessing the swing ride of our textile industry as it jumps high, falls back, and again rises to the very top. I thought it was time to share the wisdom I have gained with my dearest textile industrialists about the extraordinary businesses that are growing today by taking the leap and trying out-of-the-box strategies. The geopolitical dynamics, UK FTA, upcoming US tariff, in pipeline EU trade policy, sustainable solutions, and the pragmatic Chinese impact, etc. are all the phenomena that are expected to change the tides for favourable manufacturing in India. New opportunities are opening up. In case of textile industry, shifting of manufacturing units to India has not yet materialised into a scalable opportunity, or are we lagging in grabbing the opportunity. Today we have the best of the technologies at our disposal, there is no longer a dry patch as far as innovation is concerned. Accelerating production, cutting-edge technology, Innovative product portfolio, circular economy, 360 degrees of sustainability, traceability and Customer focus are the few most looked at terms for textiles today. So, what’s holding us back? I feel as textile entrepreneurs there is always a risk associated with trying new and being pioneers that is where our big foot falls short. We are simply the best at following innovation and finding practical multiple uses for these innovations. However, the monopoly fear of being the First to fall is always what keeps the foot small. And the strategy has played in our favour for decades. But now the era is different today be the change and invest in appropriate strategy and decide your product portfolio.   The Indian government is introspecting the risk factor and has taken right steps to go a long way and bring in favourable FTAs. These FTAs are going to be our shield in trying out something new with a calculated risk factor. The government has come up with a solution for safeguarding the interests of the textile Industry. India’s first FTA with a European bloc (Iceland, Liechtenstein, Norway, and Switzerland) – India-EFTA TEPAis thefirst to include commitments on trade and sustainability, investment, and employment generation.  India has also recently signed an FTA with the UK, this agreement aims to double bilateral trade to $120 billion by 2030 and includes tariff reductions on 90 per cent of British products, with 85% becoming tariff-free within a decade. The agreement is expected to boost Indian exports in sectors like textiles, toys, jewellery, and auto parts. Apart from this Indian government is also currently negotiating FTAs with several other regions and nations, including New Zealand, the US, the EU, Oman, Peru, Qatar, and Sri Lanka. All these FTAs will be our express ticket toward the growth and increase our exports substantially. As an entrepreneur, one should always be on the watch to venture into a product with attractive & consistent demands that reap high profit margins at minimum project cost. Many times, instead of looking around and exploring what the market demands, we tend to oversee things that are trending in the market and follow the trend that is already flourishing. Just take the example of sustainability; for many years there have been talks about adopting sustainable practices, but it is today that everyone is on their foot to get things done to be a sustainable producer. Taking forward this attitude of doing at the bare necessity, we might stay in the race but never be the front runner to grab the golden opportunity. Let us talk about trends of today with great potential. Today bio-based fibres, revolutionising Meditech innovation, traceability, and global standardisation are the concepts that are creating a space for themselves. It is still a niche area as far as the production scale is concerned. But today’s niche space is tomorrow’s biggest market. Recycled fibres Global brands are encouraging their customers to wear/use recycled products through a buy-back mechanism. Recycled fibres are being promoted by brands in their high-range product portfolio as their policy for commitment to Mother Earth. It also reduces operating cost for manufacturing same product as in most of the cases recycled fibres are cheaper than the virgin fibres Currently, there is a lot of taboo for using pet bottle fibres, but the dynamics of circularity have strong questions on its recyclable tag since it is not initially part of the value chain and also the endless dump of textiles remains untouched with it. So, the true textile recycled fibres will have scope not only for readymade garments but also in home furnishings and many upcoming technical textile applications. Many innovative & cost-effective products also can be generated by using recycled fibres. The way there is currently a big demand for recycled fibres in the clothing industry there will be a great demand for recycled fibres even in the technical textile industry in future. Standardisation and QCO mandates Though the pandemic has seen many emerging players in Meditech there were no clear-cut specifications maintained by many players which resulted in poor quality of usability of the product be it a PPE kit or a simple mask shield. This is why harmonised standards for hygiene products are being developed by the EDANA. It has designed a program that lists the requirements the industry must meet. The government of India has also led many QCOs for technical textile products in recent times. Also, the Ministry of Textile under Govt of India has prepared a Quality Control Order in respect of the 12 textile goods for compulsory use of Standard Marking. There is no going around way for it and best practices often create exceptional products giving you the open market access for high-quality products. Hence it is important to look around, think, and introspect to grab and adopt the technology, and innovation that will be the driving force for the future. Traceability Traceability and accountability are the complete package today. They are to be followed for export markets and adoption is the best way forward. Disposable home textiles The use of nonwoven technology in home textiles will give a different dimension to this segment by reducing extensive use of dyes and chemicals and we can use mechanical patterns produced by nonwoven technologies like needle punching etc. Disposable textiles using no dyes & chemicals can be used especially in hospitals, hotels and offices thus contributing a small share for saving the environment.  Similarly, spunlace curtains can take care of the aesthetic look of the fabric having the inherent capability of creating various structures & patterns that can be embossed on the fabric.  Thereby the manufacturing cost of the curtains can be minimised drastically by using spunlace technology.  So, the curtains which were once being used for years can now be replaced after identified occasions or events due to the price benefits and even additional set of curtains can be kept to replace them alternatively the raw material required for producing curtains using spunlace technology can also be the by-products of textile industry like spinning waste. So, the cost incurred on raw materials using spunlace technology is much lower as compared to woven curtains. Similarly, the entire spinning weaving & then fabric processing i.e. bleaching & dyeing technologies will be eliminated as the fibres will be directly converted to fabric by using the spunlace technologies. Smart textiles They have been in the niche market for a long run but some promising technologies being developed year on year are driving its growth. Noble Biomaterials’ Circuitex range of yarns, fabrics, tapes, foam, and wallpaper provides lightweight, flexible conductivity and EMI shielding.  This enables additional protection to military personnel allowing them to remain virtually undetectable to enemy advanced sensors. Many such innovations are happening all around us. Some might be the best fit with our existing product portfolio; some might not be. Some might be a replacement for our product. So, to look, observe, and introspect should be our continuous mantra before going forward. Global branding Today there is a lot more to branding than the conventional ways of obtaining celebrity footfall and mere advertisements. Today the branding dynamics are far superior and complex. It is about talking, making your presence heard in every situation world around. Positive Branding can take you a long way and similarly, one single negative narrative can tear you down hence it is the game of being committed to your loyal customer base, community, society, and Mother Earth. Also, branding can take mere products to iconic style statements. Take the example of the recent fashion showstopper “Indian Jhoola bags”. A high-end American department store, Nordstrom, is now selling what it calls the “Indian Souvenir Bag” for a staggering $48 (approximately Rs 4,100). Produced by Japanese brand Puebco, the product is advertised as a creative, repurposed piece with a global flair. This is the classic example of creating brand talk for everyday products and taking the utmost opportunity from it. India has to understand things happening now are different from the way things happened in the past. All brands are eyeing getting the final product. All technical textile products are the demands of not just the global market but of our domestic market as well. However, just producing a part of the final product and letting the Western world grab the higher margins on the finished products will not take us anywhere. We need to identify products with our experience and keep an eye on the complete development of the textile value chain. We need to take care of not just the technology, but also all aspects from production, quality, and social compliance to competitive marketing with certifications. Also, look at the scale of operation and select the appropriate technology, where we can be competent. * Now I think the time has come to introspect ourselves and think on * What am I doing differently? Am I producing products for the future? * Which are the opportunities right now in front of me? * How I can do something different not from the mere point of view of earnings and more profits but also a long-term recognition in a niche area and with sustainability. * Which market I am currently catering and which market do I wish to capture?  * Have I done market research properly? What is my SWOT analysis? Let us take an example if at all I am a regular spinner, * Have I over the years introduced something new to my product portfolio? * Whether I am trying something different? What my customers are using my yarn for? * What is my customer demanding additionally? * Is it use of recycled fibres? If so, do I have the technical capability to produce them * Finishes for technical performance capability- can I straightway introduce it? Is there any possibility of introducing the innovative practice, product, or process to my regular ways? This is essential because if there is another way and some competitor is already doing it then doing extremely hard work to control operating costs and just compete will be the only option available with a simple yarn manufacturer. Simply following the four generations’ products and being in the market or scaling up the production capacity is not enough. When many spinners are producing the same yarn as I am doing then it is difficult for me to survive in the long run. Simple and small innovations if not looked out for can soon lead one to be out of the race very soon.  So, the mindset needs to be developed wherein small changes matter, the next generation should especially look out for the right small change that will make a huge difference in the not-so-far future. The conventional textile players should also eye the big avenues i.e. technical textiles which are available right in front of us. How, when, in what, and how much investment are the key questions for which answers must be sorted out. Especially look out for investments that are to be made only for introducing new product lines, innovations, or new processes that will altogether change the efficiency scale. Time is “now” or never… Conclusion A few of the things that are easily available for bringing into practice are the adoption of techniques for recycling fibres introducing new product variants, and adopting renewable energy resources this will make a huge difference in margins as it brings down the cost of production, thorough retrospection of what one is doing. Change is the answer for all of us. All of the textile entrepreneurs are well aware of the above needs, however, out-of-the-box thinking needs to be practiced, great minds are also on the lookout however what is missing is the “Implementation” Two more steps are where it all falls short. Of course, this is because the existing knowledge base has many other job roles to look out for, the usuals have them all packed up, and also as the world knows there are limitations to the knowledge. But to be the front runner complete out-of-box thinking is needed further than this. It is a must to have a market study that backs the thinking approach.  A detailed study that answers * Detailed SWOT Analysis * The demand and supply needs of domestic and global markets * The techno-commercial analysis of the existing setup * Adopting “Atmanirbhar Bharat” as a golden mantra * New innovative market segment adaptation * Introduction to social compliance, green culture * Profitability projections for future * New production portfolio * Road map for success These are the areas that we need to look into for better prosperity and long-lasting business philosophy. We are ready to hand hold you for all your requirements to grow your exports in this changing global scenario. Our specialised advisory services will certainly help you in achieving your dreams in the global horizon. Please do not hesitate to contact us. About the author: Avinash Mayekar is the Managing Director of SUVIN Expo LLP. He has over 35 years of experience working in consulting firms and various reputed textile companies of India. His main specialisation lies in strategy building, business process re-engineering and technical textiles. Working with a reputed global consulting firm, Mayekar has worked on large spinning projects in India and gained huge overseas experience. The post Export growth…Mission India! appeared first on Indian Textile Journal.

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Siddharth Gupta:  German engineering firms are at the forefront of Industry 4.0 For more than a century, the Monforts commitment to customers is to be helpful – accurate – fast – reliable and has shaped the image as a leading global supplier of textile machines and systems for the finishing and coating of woven and knitted goods as well as special applications almost one hundred agents represent Monforts in all textile centres around the world. Gunnar Meyer, Managing Director, Monforts, in this interview with Divya Shetty, highlights the strengths of the German textile machinery industry and discusses how his company is playing a role in its growth. What, in your view, makes the German textile sector globally significant and trusted? Over many decades the ‘Made in Germany’ label has become synonymous with reliability, advanced technology and durability. Engineering excellence and machinery innovation is a cornerstone of the country’s industrial strength. We are proud to have been a part of this sector since 1884 and successive waves of development. We continue looking ahead to find the best solutions for machine engineering that lead to fabric quality with added value and other customer benefits. Our key strengths include automation, digitalisation and sustainable manufacturing. German engineering firms are at the forefront of Industry 4.0 and integrating cyber-physical systems, IoT and AI into production processes. The sector’s strong export orientation has also made it a crucial contributor to Germany’s economic stability and global competitiveness. How is Monforts contributing to the growth and innovation of the German textile machinery industry, both domestically and internationally? Despite a challenging time, Monforts will continue investing in research and development and by adapting to market demands and focusing on sustainable practices we aim to remain a reliable partner for the textile industry. With a strong emphasis on responsiveness, technological advancements and environmental responsibility, we are well-positioned to navigate the uncertainties of 2025 and beyond. How do you see the German-Indian collaboration evolving, and what role has Monforts played in fostering this relationship? We have been active on the Indian market since the 1960s and have built up many successful partnerships over the years with many of India’s leading textile manufacturers. Our machinery portfolio range has been continuously expanded based on accumulated know-how, resulting in our dominant position in fabric finishing technologies. We have progressed since we first entered the Indian market through mechanical technologies to the first mass production lines, then to electronic drives and special machine construction and highly modular concepts. We are now truly in the digital age and committed to investing in the digitalisation of our technology, with concepts for further assuring precise quality control and energy monitoring. Could you share some of the recent technological advancements or innovations introduced by Monforts that reflect the strengths of German engineering in textiles? Our core strength is in the process knowledge we have acquired and can pass on to customers for improving quality results and efficiency. The Advanced Technology Center (ATC) at our headquarters in Germany is now pivotal to our operations. Over an area of 1,200 square metres, it houses two full MONTEX finishing lines, engineered to accommodate an extremely diverse range of processes, in addition to a THERMEX range for the continuous dyeing of denim and other woven fabrics, a full colour kitchen and a number of lab-scale systems for smaller batch trials. The ATC allows our customers – many of them from India – to test their own technical fabrics under fully confidential, industrial production conditions. Using the results from these trials, we are also able to make recommendations for improving many fabric finishes. What are Monforts’ strategic priorities and future plans for the Indian market, given its growing importance in textile manufacturing? Our core business continues to be in MONTEX stenters and THERMEX dyeing and curing lines. MONTEX stenters are the industry standard for the fabric finishing industry, particularly in the sectors of denim, home textiles and technical textiles, providing a number of advantages in terms of production throughput and especially in energy efficiency and savings. These machines remain unmatched in terms of their robustness and long service life, as well as resource-efficient productivity. We are seeing an increased interest from Indian companies in coating and the latest applications equipment, especially within the growing technical textile market. With an eye on the technical textiles market, we have recently introduced the MontexCoat, a multifunctional coating line which offers versatility with knife coating, magnet roller coating, rotary screen printing and other applications. As a fully automatic machine, it fully caters to customers who require such flexibility. For clients only using knife coating, Monforts has also launched the more cost-effective coaTTex coating line. Looking ahead, how is Monforts preparing to address the future needs of the global textile industry, particularly in terms of sustainability, digitisation, and automation? We are constantly updating and improving our machines and with the latest MONTEX stenters, for example, overall energy savings of up to 40 per cent can now be achieved compared to a conventional stenter with no heat recovery or energy optimisation measures. Another example is with the on-going development of the THERMEX universal hotflue line for continuous dyeing, curing and thermosolation. The THERMEX provides exceptional cost-effectiveness when dyeing both large and small batches of woven fabrics due to a quick and economical one-pass pad-dry and wash off process. For our existing customers, we are also prioritising modernisation and upgrades that can make a significant impact in terms of efficiency. The retrofitting of specific modules with new control and drive technology can have a significant impact on the performance of an existing line. The Monforts universal Energy Tower, for example, is a flexible, free-standing air/air heat exchanger for recovering the heat from the exhaust air flow of thermal processes. It can result in a reduction of up to 30 per cent in the energy consumed by a line, depending on the exhaust air volume and operating temperature. The Monforts Eco Booster, which can be completely integrated into the chamber design of a MONTEX stenter, is another retrofitting option. As a single state-of-the-art heat recovery system with automatic cleaning, it can be added to existing ranges. For ranges of up to eight chambers, only one module is necessary to achieve very significant energy savings. The Eco Booster consumes only minimal amounts of water during the cleaning cycle and the entire process is controlled and monitored automatically. There are also considerable benefits to be gained from bringing a machine’s HMI – human machine interface – up to date, as well as with new frequency converter options. Monforts is now working with business partners and textile producers across all industries to use AI to increase operational efficiency and transform the customer experience. Please contact us to discover the ways AI, accelerated computing and simulation can be integrated into products, services and operations. The post Siddharth Gupta:  German engineering firms are at the forefront of Industry 4.0 appeared first on Indian Textile Journal.

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Why working with the right manufacturer can make or break your textile business In today’s textile industry, picking the right manufacturer goes far beyond placing orders; it’s a decision that shapes your entire business, says Vishal Pacheriwal. In the textile business, building a brand is like crafting many different garments, where every stitch must be precise, and the fabric must be strong and durable. At the heart of this is the relationship that lies between a company and its manufacturing partner. It’s not merely about creativity or innovation, but consistent operational execution and trust. Whether producing garments, technical textiles, or furnishings, your manufacturer’s quality, efficiency, and reliability shape the growth of your enterprise. A well-aligned partnership supports scalability and reputation, while a misstep can unravel progress. In an industry driven by detail, your manufacturer defines the rhythm of your success. Having the right manufacturer in your firm will be crucial for the success of your textile business, as it directly impacts the product quality, cost, and brand reputation. A good manufacturer ensures the consistent quality, reliability, and timely delivery of the product. In contrast, a poor choice can lead to defective products, production delays, and ultimate damage to your firm.  Why does choosing the right manufacturer matter? Choosing a manufacturer known for high product quality and brand reputation is essential, as neglecting this may result in Business challenges: Quality control: A good manufacturer who has the right information and knowledge about textiles will understand the product requirements and continue to deliver high-quality fabrics and garments. They have the expertise to handle the specific needs of the consumers, whether it’s a fabric type, production technique, or design. They must maintain the product’s quality throughout the production process, fulfill their demand and needs, and ensure customer satisfaction.  Cost efficiency: Manufacturing is often the largest cost centre of the textile business. Selecting the right partner not only covers the current production cost but also the long-term scalability.  A manufacturer that offers competitive pricing without compromising is essential for profitability. They can help you optimise costs by streamlining production and minimising waste. However, choosing them solely on pricing without looking at their quality can lead to long-term problems.  Brand reputation: The quality of your product reflects your brand reputation in the market. Partnering with a reputable manufacturer who constantly delivers high-quality goods enhances your brand image and fosters customers’ trust in the brand. Conversely, unreliable manufacturers can damage your reputation through the sale of defective products, delayed shipments, or unethical business practices.  Production efficiency and timely delivery: A reliable manufacturer guarantees a smooth production process while maintaining product quality, reducing delays and disruptions. They can meet the production deadline and allow you to fulfill the orders on time and maintain customer satisfaction. However, a delay in production may lead to a damaged relationship with retailers, loss of sales, and ultimate decline of your business.   Communication and collaboration: Effective communication is essential for a successful partnership with a textile manufacturer. It is important to convey your requirements, while the manufacturer must understand and respond to your needs. Open communication helps ensure that both parties are aligned and can quickly address any issues that may arise during the production process. Sustainability and ethical practices: Consumers today are increasingly aware of the environmental and social impacts of their purchases. Partnering with a manufacturer that prioritises sustainability and ethical practices can enhance your brand’s image and attract environmentally conscious customers. This partnership includes responsibly sourcing materials, minimising waste, and ensuring fair labor practices. Scalability and growth: A reliable manufacturer can support your business’s growth by providing scalability and flexibility in production. As your business expands, you need a manufacturer that can handle increased production volumes without compromising the quality or efficiency of the product. A good manufacturer will be able to adapt to your changing needs and support your long-term growth.  How to find the right manufacturing partner? Finding a reliable manufacturing partner requires thorough research and due diligence. Here’s a streamlined process to help you select and identify the right one: Define your needs: Before starting your research for manufacturers, clearly define your production needs. Begin by identifying the clothing category, i.e., casual, formal, or specialised clothes. Then, determine the intended production volume, which could range from small-scale custom runs to large-scale industrial output. Establish a realistic budget aligned with your business goals and ensure it’s communicated upfront with potential partners. Finally, assess the manufacturer’s quality control processes, certifications, and past work to confirm their standards meet your expectations. This strategic approach helps streamline the selection process, improves vendor alignment, and minimises risk, laying the groundwork for a successful and sustainable manufacturing collaboration. Research potential manufacturer: To find a reliable manufacturer, explore platforms like Maker’s Row or Alibaba. Focus on customer reviews, client testimonials, and detailed portfolios to assess their credibility and capabilities. Also, you can verify past work and industry experience to ensure they meet your product and quality standards. Check communication responsiveness and production timelines, and prioritise vendors with strong reputations and clear documentation. Thorough research upfront helps avoid costly setbacks later in the manufacturing process. Evaluate the shortlisted manufacturer: Once you’ve selected a potential manufacturing partner, request product samples to evaluate their quality and narrow down your choices. Follow up by checking their certifications to confirm compliance with ethical sourcing and quality benchmarks. Conduct virtual meetings for initial impressions and plan on-site inspections to verify their facilities, operations, and standards firsthand. This process helps ensure you’re aligning with a reputable and reliable manufacturer that meets your business values and expectations.  Negotiate terms: After shortlisting your partner, make sure that you discuss the pricing, MOQs, team leads, and payment terms upfront. Compare the prices among the best wholesale fabric suppliers. But also avoid quality for a lower price. No doubt, people look for cheap products, but they don’t want poor quality. Ask them for the quotations and ensure that both parties agree on quality control measures to avoid misunderstanding between them. Also, evaluate the cost-to-quality ratio to ensure that you get the best value for your money.  Build a strong relationship: If you have found a good manufacturer, it’s great, but don’t treat it as just a transaction. Invest more in building relationships with your business partners, because this is how a business works and grows.  Also, always remain in touch, give them feedback, and build trust, which will help to run the business smoothly in the long term. In the textile industry, trends and demands change rapidly, so ensure that your manufacturer knows how to communicate effectively and address your concerns.  Common mistakes while choosing an apparel manufacturer: Selecting the right apparel manufacturing partner is one of the most important decisions that you make as a fashion entrepreneur or brand manager. A reliable manufacturer not only helps to bring up the designs but also supports your growth by ensuring consistent quality, timely deliveries, and ethical practices. Carefully evaluating potential partners, based on their expertise, capacity, quality standards, and alignment with your brand, will help to develop a partnership that drives long-term success for your business.  Focusing only on a manufacturer’s price without assessing product quality can result in poor outcomes that damage your brand. Overlooking certifications and ethical standards might expose your business to legal or reputational risks. Communication gaps often lead to misalignment, delays, and unmet expectations. Ignoring the manufacturer’s ability to scale with your future growth may restrict expansion and strain supply chains later on. These missteps collectively reflect a lack of due diligence and strategic foresight, making it essential to evaluate potential partners holistically, balancing cost, quality, ethics, communication, and long-term capability for sustainable collaboration. So remember, your apparel manufacturer company is more than just a vendor; they are an extension of your team and the main pillar of your business. So, make sure that you choose them wisely.  The role of fabric in apparel production Selecting the right fabric is a critical decision in apparel production, as it directly affects the garment’s appearance, durability, comfort, and market performance. A poor choice can lead to unsellable inventory and financial setbacks. For established fashion businesses and emerging designers alike, fabric selection plays a pivotal role in shaping the success of a clothing line. Ensuring that materials align with design objectives, quality standards, and consumer expectations is fundamental to building a reputable and competitive brand in the apparel industry. The fabric forms the foundation of every garment. It breathes life into clothing and defines how it looks, feels, and performs. The selection process isn’t just technical; it’s a blend of precision and creativity. A good fabric can elevate a design, while the wrong one might compromise wearability and longevity. Key elements such as texture, weight, drape, and fibre composition determine how the final outfit comes together. These attributes must align with both design vision and functional requirements. For designers and manufacturers alike, mastering fabric selection is essential to producing pieces that resonate with the market.  The fabric decides the transition of a design in the actual product. For example, summer dresses made of fluid fabric like chiffon will look great. Whereas the same design, made of stiff fabric, will turn out to be horrible. Also, did you notice that some clothes last decades while some start tearing in a couple of washes? It’s because of the material that is being used in the manufacturing of that dress. However, the quality of the cloth also affects it immensely.  How to choose the right fabric for apparel production? Before evaluating the reason behind the manufacturing of the garments. Is it for cultural events, business-based, or physical activity-based clothing? This will decide the need for a certain type of fabric characteristic. Never assume that fabric will not shrink; there are chances that colour may fade or the fabric might be strong enough for the production process, but may not survive a wash. A manufacturer needs to understand the end users actively. You need to know what consumers search for, like comfort, durability, luxury, service, and assurance of the product. Then their expectation will guide your selection of the fabric. Sometimes you need to select the fabric, Budget-wise. For example, cotton fabric comes in many different cost ranges, and one has to select those that meet the best quality standards within the production cost limit.  Benefits of partnering with the right manufacturer Choosing the right manufacturer offers numerous advantages to go beyond cost savings. A skilled manufacturer ensures that every garment meets your satisfaction, reduces returns and complaints. Efficient production processes minimise delays, allowing you to launch the collection on time. It is obvious that cheaper options seem appealing initially, but investing in a reliable manufacturer reduces errors and wastage over time. Basically high quality products are produced ethically, which will strengthen your brand image, attract loyal customers who value your transparency and sustainability.  In today’s textile industry, picking the right manufacturer goes far beyond placing orders; it’s a decision that shapes your entire business. A dependable partner brings consistent quality, strong ethical standards, and a mindset for innovation, all of which are key for long-term success. On the other hand, working with the wrong manufacturer can slow down growth and throw off your brand’s direction. To build a textile business that’s stable, future-focused, and admired by customers and competitors alike, choose a manufacturing partner who aligns with your business goals, shares your values, and fits your long-term vision, not just your immediate production needs. About the author: Vishal Pacheriwal serves as the Managing Director of Parnika India, a distinguished leader in the manufacturing and global export of exquisite women’s ethnic wear. Based in Surat, Gujarat, Parnika India specialises in a wide range of traditional Indian garments, including meticulously crafted designer lehengas, sarees, kurtis, and fabrics, blending tradition with modern fashion. Under his leadership, the company has achieved remarkable growth, increasing its annual revenue from Rs 500 million to Rs 700 million, with a target of Rs 1 billion for FY 24-25. Parnika India now exports to over 68 countries and caters to more than 150,000 customers worldwide. The post Why working with the right manufacturer can make or break your textile business appeared first on Indian Textile Journal.

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Siddharth Gupta:  German engineering firms are at the forefront of Industry 4.0 Kusters Calico manufactures and supplies the most affordable and excellent machines to the textile wet processing and converting industry. The company is built up on an area of 20000 sq m and was established in 1996 as a Joint Venture of Eduard Kusters Maschinenfabrik GmbH & Co. KG of Germany and Calico Industrial Engineers (Calico) of India. At present, it is a 100 per cent subsidiary of JAGENBERG AG, Germany. Sushil Verma, Managing Director, Kusters Calico Machinery, discusses recent developments within his company in this interview and shares his insights on the current state of the textile wet finishing and processing industry. How do you assess the current state of the wet finishing and textile processing industry in India and globally? Currently, the textile industry is going through a tough phase due to various geopolitical uncertainties in the world especially tariff-related, affecting many textile-producing countries. Customers are reluctant to invest unless clarity emerges on the tariff structure. Since wet finishing & textile processing are important processes in textile so it’s also affected. Our order intake has also reduced as customers are in wait and wait-and-watch policy today. What are the latest technological innovations Kusters Calico has introduced in the wet finishing segment? Kusters Calico has developed new continuous bleaching range for the knits segment and going all out in the knits sector now. we can offer continuous pad batch, continuous washing and continuous bleaching range for the knits market. Next, we are working to develop a new continuous mercerising range. Kusters Calico henceforth can offer machines for both woven and knits. How is your company addressing the growing demand for sustainability and resource efficiency in textile processing? Firstly, our company is concerned with reducing the carbon footprint in our production facility; hence, Kusters Calico has recently installed 500 kW solar panels on factory sheds to produce and meet 80 per cent power requirement through green energy. Secondly, better Kusters technology and efficient washing compartments require lower water, steam, and power consumption. We are also manufacturing efficient in-house heat exchangers to reduce heat loss in the process. What trends are shaping customer preferences in wet finishing machinery today, particularly from export-driven or high-performance textile manufacturers? Today, there is a shift in customer requirements as they now demand high-quality machines to produce good quality fabrics, less utility consumption, fully controlled by PLC-driven programs to reduce manpower requirements and maintain consistency in product quality. All our machines are electronically controlled, hence less dependent on workers’ skill and hundreds of recipes can be stored in the PLC, which can be easily recalled to maintain the same quality    How do your machines cater to emerging segments like technical textiles and high-value fabric processing? Today, we have seen customers demanding a single machine that can run both woven and knits to have more flexibility in production. Also, more shift is seen towards man-made cellulosic fibres i.e., rayon modal, lyocell, tencel, etc., 100 per cent cotton, cotton lycra and other blends with synthetic fibres, which requires a high degree of accuracy in machine and roller manufacturing, bigger size and driven rollers, etc to avoid crease formation & elongation control. We have worked out the solutions for all these types of fabric requirements.    What kind of R&D efforts or collaborations is Kusters Calico focusing on to stay ahead in the market? We have formed a cross-functional team of experienced managers to suggest changes in the existing product ranges to increase product efficiency, better productivity, improve the design and standardization for ease of manufacturing and reduce design and manufacturing time. A team of dedicated design engineers is also working to standardise the modules, many already been done, and work is going on with other modules.      Can you share your strategic vision and future growth plans for both domestic and international markets? We have plans to go to the markets that are emerging today as a textile hub in the changing situation. There is a clear shift in business from one market to another and we have to be proactive to be present in these markets. We also need to increase our product portfolio so that we can cater to more customers and mitigate the risk of market meltdown in the future, as business is very dynamic these days and longevity is not assured. The post Siddharth Gupta:  German engineering firms are at the forefront of Industry 4.0 appeared first on Indian Textile Journal.

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Labels: The most important component of a garment Nonwoven labels offer several advantages, especially for large-scale production, where they prove to be highly cost-effective, inform Ravishankar Gopal M. All of us, as consumers of ready-made garments, have likely encountered discomfort from scratchy labels sewn into shirts and T-shirts. More than once, I have found myself reaching for scissors to remove an irritating label in pursuit of comfort. Curiosity led me to inspect not only my own clothes but also my spouse’s, and I was surprised to discover that even among renowned brands, the main labels used in both men’s and women’s garments were much the same in terms of feel and construction. What was more telling, however, was that while attention is lavished on the graphic appeal of brand name labels and their visual prominence, there seems to be scant regard for the tactile experience of the wearer. Wash care labels and brand logos often prioritise durability and legibility—ensuring the label outlasts the garment itself—while comfort fades into the background as a secondary concern. This imbalance suggests that for most manufacturers, the lifespan and appearance of labels overshadow the importance of wearer satisfaction. In earlier times, most labels were made from viscose-based materials with a satin-like appearance and texture. The printing on these labels tended to fade after just a few washes—generally around thirty wears—since they were usually created from viscose filament yarn and featured either printed or woven designs. While these older labels were soft to the touch, their fragility meant they would wear out relatively quickly, though this did not seem to concern either sellers or buyers at the time. Over the years, however, labels have evolved into powerful marketing tools—serving as prominent brand identifiers and designed to endure as long as the garment itself. This article aims to explore the various options available to garment manufacturers when choosing the right type of label in terms of cost, appearance, durability, and wearer comfort. It is my hope that this discussion will encourage industry designers to select appropriate labels for men’s, women’s, and children’s clothing, as well as home textiles. Looking ahead, the eco-friendly aspects of label production will undoubtedly come to the forefront, compelling manufacturers to meet ever-increasing sustainability requirements. Garment label types Below are few different types of garment labels; Woven labels: Nonwoven labels are durable, soft, and feature a premium textured finish. Though moderately priced to high, they are ideal for fashion and luxury brands seeking quality and comfort. Printed labels: These labels offer moderate durability, with potential fading over time. They have a simple appearance and come in various colours. Extremely soft and comfortable, they are cost-effective—ranging from low to moderate—and are ideal for care instructions, fast fashion garments, and innerwear. Heat transfer (tagless) labels: These labels offer moderate durability and are either invisible or printed directly onto the fabric, maintaining a sleek appearance. They provide outstanding comfort with no irritation to the skin, making them ideal for innerwear, sportswear, and baby clothing. The cost remains moderate, balancing affordability with user comfort. Satin labels: These labels offer moderate durability and feature a glossy, elegant appearance. They are very soft to the touch, ensuring comfort for delicate skin. With a moderate cost, they are particularly well-suited for lingerie and premium children’s wear. Damask woven labels: These labels are exceptionally durable and feature a detailed, high-end appearance. They offer a soft feel, combining comfort with luxury. Though relatively high in cost, they are ideal for designer and premium garments that demand superior quality and aesthetics. Taffeta labels: These labels offer good durability and have a crisp texture that lends a structured appearance. While comfort is moderate and they may feel slightly scratchy, their low to moderate cost makes them suitable for outerwear and uniforms where resilience and clarity are prioritised. Leather/faux leather labels: With superior durability and a rugged look, these labels suit denim, jackets, and outerwear, though not meant for direct skin contact. PVC/rubber labels: These labels offer very high durability and a bold, modern appearance with a 3D effect. Though low in comfort as they are used on exterior surfaces, they are ideal for sportswear and outdoor gear, with a moderate to high cost. Nonwoven labels: These labels provide fair durability and a simple, printable appearance. They are soft to the touch, highly cost-effective, and best suited for disposable, sustainable, or budget-friendly garments. We will examine in detail the nonwoven based labels which of great importance in the current context. Nonwoven-based labels in garments: Performance and cost effectiveness\ Nonwoven labels can be cut into virtually any shape or size with minimal waste, offering additional savings. What are nonwoven labels? In the ever-evolving landscape of garment manufacturing, the quest for greater comfort, sustainability, and affordability has led designers to explore a diverse array of labelling materials. Among these, nonwoven-based labels have emerged as a noteworthy solution, offering a blend of softness, printability, and cost-effectiveness that challenges traditional woven and printed alternatives. As the apparel industry strives to reconcile consumer comfort with production efficiency and environmental responsibility, nonwoven labels find themselves at the intersection of these crucial priorities. Unlike their woven or knitted counterparts, nonwoven labels are crafted by bonding fibres together through mechanical, thermal, ultrasonic or chemical processes. The result is a versatile substrate that can be tailored for different applications. Common materials used in the production of nonwoven labels include spunbond polypropylene, spunbond polyester, spunlace- cotton, viscose/polyester, needlepunch polyester, and increasingly, biodegradable options such as polylactic acid (PLA). Each of these materials delivers unique performance characteristics, making nonwoven labels suitable for a range of garment types, from fast fashion to premium loungewear.  This is equally applicable to Kid’s wear and Home Textiles. Performance characteristics * Durability: Nonwoven labels provide fair to good durability, especially suited for short- to medium-use garments. While they may not rival the longevity of traditional woven labels in heavy-duty wear, they easily meet the demands of most casual clothing. * Printability: The smooth, even surface of nonwoven materials makes them excellent canvases for high-quality printing. Whether through digital, flexographic, or screen-printing techniques, nonwoven labels deliver sharp graphics and clear text, which is essential for brand identity and wash care instructions. * Comfort and feel: Perhaps the most compelling advantage of nonwoven labels is their soft and flexible texture. Many options can be skin-friendly, reducing the irritation often associated with stiffer, woven tags. This is particularly important in garments for children, intimate apparel, and activewear, where wearer comfort is paramount in dry and wet conditions. Cost effectiveness In addition to their performance benefits, nonwoven labels are often more economical to produce. The manufacturing processes required for nonwoven fabrics are generally less resource-intensive and faster than weaving or knitting, resulting in lower material and labour costs. Furthermore, nonwoven labels can be cut into virtually any shape or size with minimal waste, offering additional savings. For brands focused on high-volume production or rapid fashion cycles, the affordability and scalability of nonwoven solutions are significant advantages. Sustainability and the future As environmental consciousness permeates the textile industry, nonwoven labels are also adapting to greener standards. Biodegradable fibres such as PLA and recycled content are becoming more prevalent, allowing manufacturers to offer labels that not only feel good but also minimize environmental impact. This eco-friendly shift is expected to accelerate as both consumers and regulators demand greater transparency and responsibility from garment producers.  Increasingly cotton based wet laid nonwovens with high strength and performance have been developed by some European wet laid nonwoven makers. Nonwoven-based labels represent a smart convergence of comfort, printability, and cost efficiency in modern garment design. While they may not yet completely replace traditional woven labels in all applications, their advantages are undeniable—particularly in fashion segments where softness, clarity, and affordability are non-negotiable. As the industry continues to innovate, nonwoven labels are poised to play an increasingly central role, setting new standards for both performance and sustainability in apparel labelling. Performance characteristics and cost effectiveness of nonwoven labels * Durability: These labels offer fair durability, making them a good choice for garments intended for short- to medium-term use. * Printability: Nonwoven labels support a variety of printing techniques and consistently deliver excellent results. * Feel (Hand): They are soft and flexible to the touch, and can be suitable for contact with the skin. * Moisture Resistance: Their resistance to moisture ranges from moderate to good, depending on the specific type of nonwoven used. * Sustainability: Labels made with biodegradable or recycled fibres offer strong sustainability benefits. Cost effectiveness * Nonwoven labels are highly economical, particularly when produced in large quantities. * They generally have lower manufacturing costs compared to woven or satin labels. * Cutting and shaping these labels produces very little waste. * They are especially well-suited for single-use garments or low-cost apparel. It may be relevant here to get into some detail the well-known Nonwoven processes and successful manufacturers. These nonwoven processes allow for a wide range of label properties, from softness and pliability to strength and sustainability, depending on the fibres and bonding methods used. Manufacturers can tailor nonwoven labels to meet the requirements of specific applications, such as care and size tags for low-cost garments, innerwear, disposable apparel, medical clothing, or fast fashion items. They are also gaining traction in sustainable and private label sectors due to the availability of biodegradable options like PLA. Cotton and fibre based wetlaid nonwoven is a new alternative. Current use and manufacturers Companies offering or capable of producing nonwoven labels include: * Avery Dennison (Global) * Finotex (Global) * CCL Industries (Global) * ITL Group (UK/Global) * SATO (Japan/Global) * Local Nonwoven Suppliers (India, China, Vietnam,Turkey) Their adaptability makes them suitable for a spectrum of uses, from single-use garments to fast-moving consumer fashion, where cost and function outweigh the need for long-term durability. It is relevant to list some limitation which can be overcome proper design of nonwovens by experts using different raw material and processes. Limitations Performance characteristics Nonwoven materials possess a unique set of qualities that make them attractive for labeling and apparel applications. Their durability is generally fair—well-suited for short- to medium-use garments, though less ideal where long-term strength is required. They excel in printability, readily accommodating a wide range of printing techniques to deliver vibrant, precise graphics. In terms of tactile experience, nonwovens are soft and flexible, often providing a hand feel that is gentle and skin-friendly. Moisture resistance ranges from moderate to good depending on the selection of fibres and bonding method, which can be tailored for specific requirements. Importantly, nonwovens stand out in sustainability, especially when fabricated from biodegradable or recycled fibres—offering a compelling solution for resource-conscious brands and consumers. Best use cases What are Nonwoven processes – some details Nonwoven labels are made from fibres bonded together mechanically, thermally, or chemically, rather than being woven or knitted. They can be produced from materials like: * Polypropylene and polyester * Polyester, Polypropylene, Blends * viscose/polyester, bico polyester, bico PP, cotton, blends * polyester, viscose, cotton, PLA, bico polyester and PP * – polyester, cotton, viscose, PLA, Recycled fibres * –  Polyester, cotton, viscose, PLA, Flax,Hemp, Recycled fibres * – short cut polyester, PP, Pulp, bico fibres PP and PET and bio binders Some more details technology used in nonwoven labels. This can be interest to the discerning reader. Nonwoven technologies used in label making Label making utilises various nonwoven technologies, each with unique materials, properties, and applications. Spunbond nonwovens, typically made from polypropylene (PP) or polyester (PET), are known for being lightweight, durable, breathable, and printable. These are widely used for garment labels and hygiene product labels. Meltblown nonwovens, composed mainly of polypropylene, feature fine fibres and good softness, though they are generally less durable. While not commonly used for labels alone, they are sometimes layered with spunbond materials—such as in SMS (Spunbond-Meltblown-Spunbond) structures—for use in label applications. Spunlace (hydroentangled) nonwovens, made from polyester and viscose blends, offer high softness and a textile-like feel. These are printable and strong, making them ideal for high-quality garment labels where comfort and aesthetics are essential. Needlepunched nonwovens, using polyester, viscose, or PP, are thicker and stronger but less flexible than other types. These are suitable for industrial labeling, such as for carpets and upholstery. Wetlaid nonwovens, comprising cellulose, PET, or glass fibres, have a paper-like texture, are printable, and provide good dimensional stability. They are commonly used for paper-like tags and labels, especially in packaging and luxury goods. Thermal bonded nonwovens, made from blends of PP or PET with low-melt binder fibres, are stiff, durable, and cost-effective. These are often used for mass-produced tags and labels. Airlaid nonwovens, primarily cellulose-based, are soft and highly absorbent. However, their use in label making is limited to niche applications. Stitchbond nonwovens, produced from materials such as polyester, polypropylene, recycled fibres, and cotton, have a soft and thick feel. These are typically used in active garments and winter clothing labels. Advantages of nonwoven labels Nonwoven labels offer several advantages, especially for large-scale production, where they prove to be highly cost-effective. They can be customised in terms of texture, thickness, and print compatibility to suit various product requirements. Many eco-friendly options are available, including labels made from recycled PET, biodegradable viscose, and cotton, aligning with sustainable manufacturing practices. Nonwoven labels are also compatible with multiple printing technologies such as thermal transfer, digital, and flexographic printing. Additionally, their soft and skin-friendly nature makes them ideal for use in clothing and hygiene products. Leading global nonwoven label makers Some of the global companies making nonwoven-based labels or label substrates are listed below. Avery Dennison (USA) is a global leader in pressure-sensitive labels and RFID tags, and it offers nonwoven label stocks for textile and medical applications. UPM Raflatac (Finland) provides sustainable nonwoven and film label materials, and is well known for its bio-based and recyclable solutions. Sihl Group (Germany) supplies inkjet-printable nonwoven and paper label substrates with a focus on garment care labels and durable tags. Kimberly-Clark Professional (USA) manufactures spunlace and airlaid nonwovens used in both labels and wipes, and it supplies substrates for hygiene and medical labeling. Freudenberg Performance Materials (Germany) offers spunlace and wetlaid nonwovens, particularly suited for garment care labels, known for their textile-like comfort and durability. Suominen (Finland) produces spunlace nonwovens that are used in a variety of high-end label applications. In Asia, Unitika (Japan) manufactures polyester-based spunbond nonwovens for technical and garment applications, while Toray Industries (Japan) offers PET nonwoven films and laminates that are widely used in labeling and garment tags. Emerging suppliers in Asia include; * JJF (China): Spunbond and spunlace producers offering label-grade rolls. * Welcron (Korea): High-performance spunlace for hygiene and wearable labels. * Welspun Living and Ginni Filaments (India): Manufacturer of spunlace suitable for garment labels. Applications in garments Nonwoven materials are commonly used in a variety of label applications such as care labels, brand tags, and wash-resistant printed labels. They are also ideal for sewn-in soft labels, particularly in sensitive garments like babywear or undergarments, where comfort against the skin is essential. Conclusion There is considerable scope for development of new type of labels in the Garment and Home Textiles.  The first approach to various possibilities is described in this article with particular emphasis on the Nonwoven which is a cost effective and eco-friendly alternative available.  Use of bio based material and recyclable focused labels will be the next development in this interesting field. About the Author:   Ravishankar Gopal is a Chief Consultant at KS Technical and Management Consultants – Vadodara. He is a textile technologist and consultant in the field of technical textiles and nonwovens.  He has set up many projects in India and abroad for all Nonwoven technologies and specialised Technical Textiles.  Gopal has also developed many new products in this very unique textile domain. He has over 30 years of experience in setting up new green field projects in this sector. His on-going research and industry collaboration continue to drive innovation within the textile sector, supporting sustainable practices and the adoption of advanced material solutions. Through his extensive experience, he contributes valuable insights to the development of eco-friendly labelling options and the broader application of nonwoven technologies across the global textile industry. The post Labels: The most important component of a garment appeared first on Indian Textile Journal.

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Siddharth Lulla:  CAIF’s mission is to build a circular future Launched in 2018, the ‘Circular Apparel Innovation Factory (CAIF)’ is a pioneering initiative by Intellecap with the objective of driving the clothing & textile sector to become circular. The initiative aims to increase the use of sustainable inputs and materials, maximize the usage of textile & clothing, bring in business model innovations, increase recycling and boost production through the use of renewable inputs. Siddharth Lulla, Partner, Circular Economy, speaks with Divya Shetty about CAIF’s mission, its ongoing efforts to drive sustainability in the textile industry, and how its initiatives aim to enhance the livelihoods of textile and waste sector workers. What are your expansion plans over the next two to three years? Over the past six years at Intellecap, I have led several programs under the Circular Economy practice, especially focusing on textiles and apparel. We operate through the Circular Apparel Innovation Factory (CAIF), an industry-led initiative aimed at building a circular and climate-resilient apparel sector in the Global South. Our vision is to move from a linear “take-make-waste” model to a circular one that regenerates resources, reduces emissions, and promotes dignified livelihoods. Over the years, we have built strong multi-stakeholder programs across India, Africa, and Southeast Asia in areas like decarbonisation, waste-to-value, and sustainable materials. Our expansion goal now is to scale these programs across geographies and integrate financing mechanisms with solution adoption. We are working towards developing scalable platforms that combine innovation, capital, and partnerships to accelerate the textile industry’s transition toward sustainability. What is your presence in India and your key focus areas going forward? India has been the starting point of our journey. We focus on building ecosystem-led initiatives driven by multi-stakeholder collaborations and high-impact agendas. In addition to India, we now operate in Bangladesh and are expanding into Africa. In India, we work on: * Decarbonisation: Supporting suppliers to adopt low-carbon technologies by showcasing and piloting viable solutions tailored to their needs. * Waste-to-value: Creating models that involve waste workers, material recovery facilities, and recyclers to repurpose textile waste and reintroduce it into the supply chain. * Green skilling and livelihoods: Training textile and waste sector workers for better income opportunities and promoting micro-entrepreneurship. * Enterprise and innovation support: Supporting early-stage and commercially viable enterprises with pilots, boot camps, financing access, and innovation showcases. * Access to finance: Developing blended finance tools to support SMEs in adopting green practices. Our approach is contextual across geographies, and all initiatives are adapted to the specific needs and potential of each region we work in. How is CAIF working with stakeholders across Asia and Africa to promote sustainability and reduce environmental impacts? We are building a South-South collaboration platform tailored to regional contexts in India, Bangladesh, and Africa. Each geography presents unique challenges and opportunities, and we tailor our interventions accordingly. In India, we focus on decarbonisation by working with brands and suppliers to adopt energy, water, and chemical management solutions. Outcomes of our efforts include 20 to 40 per cent reduction in energy consumption, 60 to 80 per cent reduction in effluent waste, adoption of 100 per cent bio-based materials and cost savings of upto 20 per cent. Our waste programs aim to eliminate 20 million kilograms of textile waste while creating 5,000 jobs. In Bangladesh, we support women garment workers facing job displacement due to automation by upskilling them for roles in recycling, light manufacturing, and green jobs. Achievements include skill development of 1500 women of whom atleast 65 per cent have been placed in jobs. We also work on recycling blended textile waste and promoting indigenous recycling capacities. Here we are developing an indigenous ecosystem to recycle blended textile waste. In Africa, we are piloting models such as circular cities, regenerative agriculture, and circular food systems. The goal is to transfer relevant learnings from India and Bangladesh to these new programs, adapted to local contexts. Is the current India-Bangladesh trade uncertainty affecting your work? Not directly. Our focus is on helping textile ecosystems in each geography transition toward sustainability. While trade disruptions may affect certain suppliers, our work remains relevant due to growing global sustainability mandates. Both India and Bangladesh export to markets like the EU, where environmental regulations are tightening. Our programs are helping these regions meet those requirements. Therefore, although there may be economic impacts in the short term, the core of our work—enabling sustainable transformation—is unaffected. Could you share some on-going or recently completed projects in India led by CAIF? We’re leading several ambitious initiatives in India. Some key ones include: * Project Accelerating Circular Economy (ACE): Supported by DOEN Foundation, this program identifies and pilots innovative solutions across energy, water, chemicals, and recycling with brands like H&M, Target, and Marks & Spencer. * EU-Switch Asia initiative: A cluster-based initiative working with 250–400 SMEs across India to build capacity in carbon reduction, raise awareness about global sustainability policies, and provide access to green finance. * Waste management programs: With support from IKEA Foundation and Alwaleed Philanthropies, we are building an end-to-end waste ecosystem—from collection and sorting to recycling and integration back into supply chains. * Entrepreneur and innovation support: We are actively supporting early-stage and growth-stage solutions through enterprise boot camps, pilot testing, and access to finance. We are proud to have a large network of c. 500 commerically viable solutions. We recently facilitated a $30 million investment in Dalmia Polypro to scale its recycling infrastructure. We are also in the process of launching our own circular economy-focused fund to support the widespread adoption of sustainable practices in the textile sector. How do you view the current state of India’s apparel industry and its outlook for the next five years? We are optimistic about the future of the Indian apparel industry. With government initiatives like PLI and rising global interest due to China+1 strategies, India is well-positioned for growth. There’s a strong domestic consumption base and increasing exports, supported by infrastructure developments such as garment-focused SEZs. Importantly, the industry is now at a turning point where sustainability is no longer optional. Global buyers are demanding compliance with environmental standards. Indian suppliers who adopt green practices will be better placed to grow, improve competitiveness, and capture more value in the coming years. This is the time for the sector to transform itself meaningfully and sustainably. The post Siddharth Lulla:  CAIF’s mission is to build a circular future appeared first on Indian Textile Journal.

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Siddharth Gupta:  Hemp is quickly emerging as a preferred alternative to other fibres The journey of Indian Hempstore began in the Himalayan town of Kasol in 2017, when Siddharth Gupta, Founder, Indian Hempstores, first encountered hemp products being sold in local markets by small artisans. This encounter sparked a deep curiosity about hemp—not just as a raw material, but as a catalyst for sustainable industrial innovation. Intrigued by its versatility, he travelled to Kathmandu, Nepal, where he discovered a more evolved ecosystem around hemp—ranging from textiles to wellness. Inspired by this vision, Gupta became one of the first to import and sell hemp bags on Amazon India, introducing Indian consumers to the idea of wearable sustainability. However, he soon realised the lack of an organised supply chain, domestic awareness, and institutional support around hemp in India. That gap became the genesis of Indian Hempstore. Founded in 2022, Indian Hempstore is India’s first hybrid hemp marketplace, bringing together B2B and B2C ecosystems under one umbrella. The company’s mission is clear: to position hemp as a mainstream industrial crop that can revolutionise textiles, agriculture, health, and the environment. In its early stages, Indian Hempstore was incubated at Runway, the startup incubator of UPES, my alma mater, which provided a strong foundation through mentorship, infrastructure, and entrepreneurial guidance. This early institutional support helped refine its business strategy and accelerate its transition from idea to impact. With deep roots in sustainability, we are not just building a business—we’re cultivating a movement to reimagine India’s textile landscape through indigenous, regenerative, and eco-forward innovation. Hemp, a plant long misunderstood and underutilised, is now being reimagined as a sustainable textile superhero. Grown wildly across India—from the cold altitudes of Himachal to the hot plains of Rajasthan—India is among the top six countries where hemp grows naturally, making it an ideal candidate for scalable, eco-conscious textile production. Hemp yarns and fabrics come with a robust suite of natural advantages. The fibre is naturally pest-resistant, eliminating the need for harmful pesticides, unlike cotton, which consumes large quantities of water and chemicals. In fact, hemp requires 50 per cent less water than cotton, while enriching the soil it grows in through deep roots and regenerative properties. Even more impressive, hemp sequesters twice the amount of CO2 from the atmosphere compared to other crops—making it a powerful tool in the climate fight. Technologically, hemp fabrics are UV-resistant, antibacterial, and thermally insulating, making them suitable for India’s diverse climates. The fibre’s inherent tensile strength ensures longevity, and its unique softening characteristic with every wash enhances comfort over time. In a world where fashion and function must now align with climate responsibility, Gupta in this interview with Divya Shetty says how hemp textiles offer India a once-in-a-generation opportunity to lead the global transition to planet-friendly fabrics. How does Indian Hempstore’s business model ensure both sustainability and scalability in India’s growing hemp market? At Indian Hempstore, our business model is built on a unique hybrid marketplace approach—integrating both online and offline verticals—to drive scalable impact while staying rooted in sustainability. We connect farmers, manufacturers, government bodies, education institutions designers, exporters, and conscious consumers through a single unified digital and offline platform. This allows us to streamline procurement, production, and distribution of hemp-based textiles and products across India and beyond. On the sustainability front, we work directly with local farmers in Uttarakhand, Himachal Pradesh, and Nepal region, helping them transition to certified hemp cultivation with zero-pesticide practices and minimum water usage. Our core mission is not just to sell the product but also to educate people to make India a global leader in this segment, we collaborated with academic institutions like IIT Ropar, IIM Kashipur, Miranda House Delhi University, Lady Shri College for Women Delhi University and UPES Dehradun for R&D in regenerative agriculture and textile innovation, ensuring our product development remains eco-forward and technologically sound. With hemp there are various rules, regulations and compliances which can only be informed or coordinated through government bodies, while working since 2017 we noticed there is a huge policy challenge, hence we strategically established our venture in the hemp capital of India, Dehradun Uttarakhand, where the first hemp policy for India was introduced by Government of Uttarakhand in 2017. We started working with the industrial department, startup Uttarakhand and gradually as industrial advisor with Himachal Government.  From a scalability perspective, our focus is on building India’s first organized hemp supply chain, backed by state support and institutional funding. We’ve signed a ₹1 billion MoU with the Government of Uttarakhand to develop a hemp industry cluster, and we’ve already fulfilled over 2,000 B2C and B2B orders, 2 B2G orders, partnered with 40+ hemp companies, and engaged over 50,000 students and professionals through awareness programs. Our tech-enabled platform, coupled with physical outreach, allows us to serve both traditional textile buyers and modern eco-conscious consumers, creating a strong foundation to scale nationally and tap into global demand. In short, Indian Hempstore is not just creating products—it’s building the future infrastructure of the Indian hemp ecosystem. Could you walk us through your sourcing process—where do you source your hemp from, and how do you ensure ethical and eco-friendly practices? At Indian Hempstore, we believe that true sustainability starts at the root—literally. Our sourcing model is fully traceable, ethical, and eco-conscious, ensuring that every fibre of hemp we use upholds the values of regenerative agriculture and rural empowerment. Working on a beta version of blockchain hemp technology, making sourcing traceable. Our mission is to simplify the trackability both for government and people to make sure ethical practices established for strong industrial culture in India. We primarily source hemp from licensed cultivators, manufacturers and wild-growing regions across Uttarakhand & Himachal Pradesh—states that have historically seen natural cannabis growth across diverse climates. These regions offer ideal agro-ecological conditions for hemp cultivation without requiring chemical inputs. To ensure ethical practices, we work directly with farmers and self-help groups, providing training in sustainable farming techniques, proper retting, fibre extraction, and compliance with government regulations. Our engagement isn’t just transactional—we co-create value by ensuring fair pricing, zero middlemen exploitation, and community development. On the eco-friendly front, all hemp sourced by Indian Hempstore is grown using minimal water, without synthetic fertilizers or pesticides. We closely monitor soil regeneration, biodiversity impact, and carbon absorption, as hemp naturally enriches the soil and captures large amounts of CO₂. This makes our supply chain not only low-impact but climate-positive. We also collaborate with R&D partners and agricultural experts from institutions like IIT Ropar I-Hub to continuously improve post-harvest processes like decortication and fibre softening—making hemp yarns ready for industrial spinning while preserving sustainability standards. In essence, our sourcing isn’t just about raw material—it’s about building a responsible textile ecosystem, where every thread carries a story of nature, ethics, and innovation. How do you see the hemp apparel and accessories segment evolving in India, and what role is Indian Hempstore aiming to play in that future? The hemp apparel and accessories segment in India is on the cusp of a major transformation. As global and domestic consumers grow more conscious about environmental impact, there is a rising demand for natural, durable, and ethically-made fashion. Hemp, with its rich fibre strength, antibacterial properties, and environmental benefits, is quickly emerging as a preferred alternative to cotton, polyester, and even linen. We believe that India, with its natural cannabis biodiversity and textile heritage, is uniquely positioned to lead this revolution. In the coming years, we expect to see hemp enter mainstream fashion, workwear, activewear, luxury eco-fashion, and even smart textiles—powered by innovation in yarn blending, dyeing techniques, and fabric finishing. At Indian Hempstore, our vision is to be at the forefront of this hemp evolution. We’re working to develop high-quality hemp-based fabrics and blends that are not just sustainable but also commercially viable for designers, export houses, and large retailers. Our collaborations with textile engineers and fashion institutions are focused on refining yarn textures, improving colour retention, and scaling production while maintaining sustainability standards. On the accessories front, we’re promoting a zero-waste design ecosystem—creating everything from hemp footwear and bags to wallets and home goods—made by artisans, backed by technology. We’re also enabling young fashion entrepreneurs to access eco-materials and co-create with us through our platform. As India moves toward becoming a global textile sustainability hub, Indian Hempstore aims to serve as a central force—bridging tradition with technology, grassroots supply with global demand, and fashion with climate action What challenges have you encountered in promoting hemp-based fashion in India, and how are you addressing consumer awareness and regulatory hurdles? Promoting hemp-based fashion in India comes with a unique set of challenges—cultural, regulatory, and informational. One of the biggest hurdles we’ve faced is the widespread misconception between industrial hemp and narcotic cannabis. Despite being a legally distinct and non-psychoactive crop, hemp still suffers from outdated stigma and confusion, slowing policy support, investor confidence, and public acceptance. From a regulatory standpoint, India is still in the early stages of framing structured guidelines for hemp cultivation, processing, and commercialization. Licensing systems vary by state, and lack of a unified national framework delays supply chain development and restricts scalability. On the consumer side, awareness has been limited. Many customers are unfamiliar with hemp’s textile properties—its durability, breathability, antibacterial nature, and eco-advantages over cotton and synthetics. There’s also a perception that sustainable fashion is either too niche or too expensive, which we aim to change. With increasing global interest in sustainable fashion, how is Indian Hempstore positioning itself in international markets, and do you have plans to expand globally? As the global fashion industry pivots toward sustainable fibres and ethical sourcing, Indian Hempstore is strategically positioning itself as a global supplier and innovation partner for hemp-based textiles and products. With rising international demand for eco-conscious alternatives to cotton and synthetics, India’s indigenous hemp—when processed and branded right—has the potential to lead the next textile revolution. We’ve already begun laying the foundation for global expansion. Indian Hempstore recently represented Uttarakhand and India at SLUSH 2024 in Finland, one of the world’s most prestigious startup platforms. There, we formed partnerships with two leading European hemp companies, who together operate over 140 stores across Europe. These collaborations are opening doors for joint product development, cross-border retail, and supply chain integration. Our international strategy includes: * Export-Ready Product Development: We’re working on high-grade hemp yarns, woven and knitted fabrics, and blend innovations suitable for European, North American, and Japanese fashion markets. * Global B2B Marketplace Integration: Our platform is being scaled to support international B2B transactions, enabling global buyers to source verified, ethically made Indian hemp textiles. * Compliance and Certifications: We’re aligning our production processes with global textile standards—such as GOTS, Fair Trade, and OEKO-TEX—to meet international buyer requirements. * Storytelling Through Origin: International consumers are increasingly driven by stories of authenticity. Our products emphasize “Himalayan Hemp” as a mark of purity, resilience, and sustainability, giving us a unique identity in the global market. Yes, we absolutely have plans to expand globally—not just as an exporter, but as an ambassador of India’s sustainable textile legacy. We envision Indian Hempstore as the “FabIndia of Hemp”, connecting traditional wisdom with contemporary global fashion values. The post Siddharth Gupta:  Hemp is quickly emerging as a preferred alternative to other fibres appeared first on Indian Textile Journal.

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Smart Air Solutions for Smarter Textiles Gopal Reddy says, with automation and IoT technologies now embedded into air compressors, textile production is moving away from traditional setups and becoming more efficient and better for the environment. The Indian textile industry is a major contributor to our export and manufacturing sectors. According to the Union Ministry of Textiles, in the Financial Year 2023-24 alone, textiles added 13 per cent to industrial production, and 12 per cent to exports. To keep up with rising demands the industry is steadily adopting automation and Internet of Things (IoT) ushering in big changes in manufacturing, making everything faster, smarter, and more efficient. With the help of tools like robotic weaving, automated cutting and AI-driven design, businesses are not only meeting market needs but also cutting down on waste and costs. At the core of this shift is the smart use of resources. Imagine you walk into a modern textile manufacturing plant where machinery hums smoothly, downtime is rare and energy bills don’t skyrocket. Behind all this is compressed air, technically invisible yet absolutely essential. With automation and IoT technologies now embedded into air compressors, textile production is moving away from traditional setups and becoming more efficient and better for the environment. Enlisted below are a few key benefits: * Real-time monitoring * Sensors track key data like pressure, temperature, flow rate and power use * Data is sent to an IoT platform so you can check it anytime, from anywhere * Easy-to-read dashboards show how compressors are performing * Predictive maintenance * Smart systems study past data to predict possible issues * Get alerts when something is off so you can fix it before it breaks * Plan maintenance at the right time, not too early or too late * Better energy efficiency * Compressors like variable-speed drive (VSD) compressors adjust motor speed based on real-time demand to save energy * Detect and fix air leaks that waste power * Smart controls change settings based on what is needed, cutting energy use * Smoother operations * Detect defects early to avoid sudden breakdowns * Use data to manage compressor usage more effectively * Save money with fewer repairs, lower energy bills and less downtime Some leading manufacturers are already offering smart air compressors tailored for textile needs. For example, Atlas Copco has launched systems like Elektronikon Nano with SMARTLINK, which provides real-time performance monitoring through an app, even allowing for over-the-air software updates. Central controllers such as Equalizer 4.0 PRO and Optimizer 4.0 manage multiple compressors, optimising workload distribution and energy consumption.  These technological shifts align seamlessly with the objectives behind Industry 4.0, where machine-to-machine communication is being facilitated and systems adapt in real time to the downstream air consumption pattern. However, bringing IoT into textiles has its own set of challenges. The foremost of which relates to keeping data safe and private while avoiding any network issues. Then there is initial investment cost of setting everything up and keeping them operational. Systems need to grow with businesses and not slow operations down. Factory workers also need the right skills and training. India is the world’s second-largest manufacturer and exporter of textiles and apparel after China, with a 5 per cent share in global trade, according to the Ministry of Textiles.  Compressed air is now one of the quiet forces that keep textile plants functioning efficiently. Whether it’s spinning, weaving, dyeing, or even just cleaning, air compressors play a big role. They directly affect the quality of the final product, which is why picking the right industrial air compressor manufacturer really matters. So, the next time you find a fabric seamless and beautiful, remember that smarter air systems may be working hard behind the scenes to give you something you can use and cherish forever. About the author: Gopal Reddy M is the National Marketing Manager of Industrial Air Division at Atlas Copco (India). Since 1873, the Atlas Copco Group has provided innovative technology, products, services and solutions. Atlas Copco Group aims to enable technology that transforms the future, creating value for our customers, employees, shareholders and society The post Smart Air Solutions for Smarter Textiles appeared first on Indian Textile Journal.

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Indian fashion goes global and green With thoughtful brands, skilled artisans, smart students, and curious customers, the future of Indian fashion looks strong, says Khushi Agrawal and Satyam Saini. For years, Indian fashion was often seen only through the lens of tradition. It was labelled as “ethnic,” worn for weddings or festivals, but rarely considered part of modern, everyday style. That perception is changing fast. Today, a new wave of Indian designers is showing that fashion here can be rooted in heritage while being modern, wearable, and globally relevant. From the lanes of Delhi to the streets of New York, Indian fashion is making its mark. It’s staying true to its roots while confidently stepping into the future. Blending tradition with a global beat International and Bollywood celebrities—including Zendaya, Gigi Hadid, and Naomi Campbell—have worn Chikankari outfits during global events. India’s strength in fashion has always been its rich craft — from Paithani silk in Maharashtra to Chikankari in Lucknow and hand block prints in Jaipur. These are more than just techniques. They carry stories of places, people, and communities. The rise of global e-commerce platforms (like Etsy, Net-a-Porter, and slow-fashion boutiques) has enabled Indian block printers to reach international markets. What’s changing is how these crafts are being used. Today’s designers aren’t choosing between traditional and modern. They’re doing both. You’ll see a hoodie with Madhubani art, sneakers inspired by old temples, or a denim jacket embroidered with phulkari. It feels real, fresh, and connected. Brands like NorBlack NorWhite, Biskit, and Jaywalking are part of this new voice. They’re not trying to copy anyone else. They’re creating pieces that speak to a new generation — one that’s proud of where it comes from and how it presents itself. This shift isn’t just about fashion, it’s about identity. Young people today want clothes that reflect their culture and values. They don’t want to pick between jeans and a kurta, they want both on their terms. Sustainability: Not new to us, just reimagined Being eco-friendly isn’t a new idea in India. Our parents and grandparents reused fabrics, passed down clothing, and made things last. What we now call “slow fashion” was just everyday life back then. Now, with climate change and growing awareness, those ideas are coming back. Designers are thinking carefully about how their clothes are made, who makes them, and what impact they have. Take Ryfin, for example. Itʼs a modern Indian brand using banana crepe, a fabric made from banana plant waste. Itʼs soft, strong, and eco-friendly. They combine it with printing and embroidery techniques to create clothes that are both stylish and mindful. But Ryfin is just one example. Across India, more and more designers are working with local materials, using natural dyes, and focusing on fair work practices. Theyʼre showing that good fashion doesnʼt have to harm the planet. Customers are also asking better questions. Who made this shirt? Is the fabric natural? Can this be recycled? These arenʼt niche concerns anymore. Theyʼre part of how young people shop. Sustainability in Indian fashion is not about jumping on a global trend. It is about going back to what we have always known — taking care, using less, and respecting people who make our clothes. How design schools are helping lead the change None of this would be possible without education. Design schools are helping shape this new thinking. One such school is Pearl Academy, which is helping young designers connect tradition with modern needs. Here, they don’t just learn how to make beautiful clothes, they learn why it matters — how to design in ways that care for the planet and tell real stories. From learning traditional crafts to understanding modern sustainability challenges, they get a complete view. Workshops with artisans, field visits, and hands-on projects are all part of the experience. The result? Students who understand both the art and the responsibility that comes with fashion. Many graduates are now creating brands and projects that reflect these values. They’re building a future where fashion is thoughtful, grounded, and exciting. The new Indian fashion voice: Honest and Proud What stands out in Indian fashion right now is the tone — it’s sure of itself. Designers aren’t trying to blend in or chase big trends. They’re speaking their own language. Fashion weeks in India now showcase more homegrown styles than ever. Runways in Europe and the US are featuring Indian fabrics and silhouettes. But more than visibility, it’s about storytelling. Designers are talking about gender, climate, caste, and craft through their work. And the clothes? They’re still fun. Bright colours, bold cuts, personal touches — but with deeper meaning. It’s fashion with a point of view, but without losing the joy. The road ahead As fashion around the world becomes more similar, India’s variety is its strength. From the deserts of Rajasthan to the coast of Kerala, every part of the country has something to say — and now, it’s finally being heard. With thoughtful brands, skilled artisans, smart students, and curious customers, the future of Indian fashion looks strong. It’s not about following anyone else. It’s about doing what we’ve always done best: telling our story, our way. That story blends past and present, tradition and change. It’s stylish, smart, and sustainable. And it’s just getting started. About the authors: Khushi Agrawal is currently pursuing her undergraduate degree in Fashion Design at Pearl Academy, South Delhi. Hailing from the quaint town of Kasganj, Uttar Pradesh, Agrawal seamlessly weaves her small-town sensibilities with a bold, global outlook—bringing a fresh and fearless voice to contemporary fashion. With a sharp eye for detail and an instinct for innovation, Khushi made a remarkable international debut by launching her own label and unveiling her first collection at London Fashion Week. Satyam Saini, a Pearl Academy fashion design student, is a fashion designer and co-founder of Ryfin. He is deeply passionate about exploring India’s cultural heritage through design, weaving traditional stories into contemporary streetwear. His work reflects a constant curiosity for craft, identity, and the evolving language of fashion. The post Indian fashion goes global and green appeared first on Indian Textile Journal.

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Reinventing concrete with textiles Textile-based composites have been studied extensively in the past two decades as they are used in the construction of newly fabricated structural elements and the strengthening of existing structures. The advancement in construction materials and technology has led to research into efficient and sustainable structural systems that incorporate the properties of minimum material usage, light weight, and added economic benefits. To attain this, researchers impregnated a certain number of fibres into the concrete matrix as they are effective in reducing cracks and can improve the ductility behavior of concrete by making the sections more compact, which can ultimately lead to more economic designs. The alternative method is to replace the steel reinforcement with textile (fibre) mesh, creating textile-reinforced concrete (TRC). The nonmetallic nature of TRC eliminates the usage of concrete cover, resulting in slender members. Textile-based composites have been studied extensively in the past two decades as they are used in the construction of newly fabricated structural elements and the strengthening of existing structures. TRC possesses enhanced properties such as increased flexibility and resistance to fire. Therefore, TRC is becoming progressively more attractive for strengthening existing structures, in comparison to the more extensively used fibre-reinforced polymer (FRP). Numerous studies have been conducted globally to assess the suitability of TRC as a building material, in terms of its tensile and flexural strengths. Typically, the specimen is prepared in the form of plates and is subjected to either tensile or three-point bending tests. The results are highly dependent on the type of fibre and the mix design of concrete used. In terms of the bond strength, the majority of researchers have attempted to quantify the bond strength of externally bonded fibre, as TRC is used as a repair material. In textile-reinforced concrete, as the fibre is embedded within the concrete matrix, a new and better bond strength model must be established specifically for this application. This is important for the correct prediction and modeling of the behavior of TRC using numerical analysis. Thus, a comprehensive review of TRC would be useful to provide a holistic picture and allow a wider application of this material in the future. The novelty of this article is that it applied the science mapping approach (SMA) in the research domain of TRC by using a bibliometric search and scientometrics analysis to reduce the biases. In addition, the current article is further extended with an in-depth qualitative discussion by assessing the existing research on TRC with the following research objectives: to determine (a) the material properties of TRC, (b) the composite behavior of TRC, (c) the bond-slip relations, and (d) the applications of TRC as structural elements. This is followed by a discussion of the recommendations for future research. 1. Bibliometric literature search The present article adopted a comprehensive approach for evaluating the recent research outputs in the field of TRC from 2010 to 2022 (February) published in Scopus. The research framework illustrated in Figure 1 consists of three sections, namely (i) literature retrieval, (ii) scientometrics analysis, and (iii) qualitative analysis through specific research areas. The literature is divided into four research areas: (A) the material properties of TRC, (B) the composite behavior of TRC, (C) the bond-slip relations, and (D) the applications of TRC as structural elements. This is based on the common theme found in the literature review conducted. Figure 1: Workflow for reviewing the literature on TRC 1.1. Literature retrieval The literature retrieval on TRC articles was performed using Scopus, which is considered the major search engine for academic publications. The literature search was performed by entering the following keywords in Scopus: TITLE-ABS-KEY (“textile reinforced concrete, TRC, textile fibres, and textile shells”). The keywords search identified relevant articles published from 2010 to 2022 (February). As shown in Figure 1, a total of three substeps were performed to screen-out articles that were out of scope and did not focus on TRC. 1.2. Scientometric analysis on keywords and publication sources The text-mining tool (VOS Viewer), developed by, was adopted in the current article for the enhanced analysis and visualisation of the bibliometric studies. This study utilised VOS Viewer to achieve the following key objectives: (i) to obtain the downloaded literature data from Scopus, (ii) to study the mainstream research keywords and their inter-relationships, and (iii) to visualise, compute, and analyse the publication sources and countries belonging to the TRC research community. 1.2.1. Keyword network analysis The keyword-based literature search in Scopus produced 1097 articles, from which the initial screening removed any articles that were out of the TRC scope (i.e., those that included few other polymers along with TRC). The second set of screening was performed on TRC with a specific focus on engineering applications, leading to a dataset of 510 articles for review. Based on the recommendations proposed by, in the present article, “Author Keywords” and “Fractional Counting” were used in the VOS Viewer analysis. The minimum occurrence of a keyword was set at 5. Initially, 302 out of 3263 keywords met the threshold, from which some general items were removed to reduce the effect of regular topics, e.g., “reinforced plastics”, “concrete buildings textile industry”, and “steel fibers”. Various other keywords with the same semantic meanings, such as “textile reinforced concretes” versus “textile reinforced concrete”, “bearing capacity” versus “load bearing-capacity”, “FEM” versus “finite element method”, and “mechanical properties” versus “mechanical behavior” were combined in the second-round keyword analysis. Finally, a total of 29 keywords were selected, as shown in Figure 2 Figure 2: Co-occurrence of keywords in TRC research. The node sizes, distances among the nodes, and connection lines among the keywords are shown in Figure 2 and display the most frequently studied terms. The node colors were used to divide the keywords into different clusters. The font and node size visually represent the number of articles from the given journals, with larger fonts and node sizes indicating larger numbers of publications. The clusters represented by different colors and connection lines indicate the closeness among the keywords in terms of mutual citations. 1.2.2. Periodical publications The literature retrieval was conducted for publications from the years 2010 to 2022 (February) based on the keyword analysis. The study of TRC is a newly emerging research area, in which a significant number of publications were produced after 2010. In total, 510 publications were found within the last 11 years, with 313 coming from journals. Figure 3 illustrates the number of yearly publications on TRC and shows the increasing trend in recent years. 1.2.3. Research streams of textile-reinforced concrete Based on the selected papers, the mainstream research work on TRC can be categorised in terms of (A) the material properties of TRC, (B) the composite behavior of TRC, (C) the bond-slip relations, and (D) the applications of TRC as structural elements. Most articles on TRC fall within research areas (A) and (B), showing that studies of material properties and composite behavior are still ongoing. A significant number of articles (135) discuss the material properties of TRC (A), including the evaluation of bending and shear strength], the effect of elevated temperature and fire, freeze-thaw cycles, and dry-wet cycles. In addition, some publications detail the self-sensing ability of the carbon fibre embedded in the concrete by means of electrical resistance for structural health monitoring. In the area of the composite behavior of TRC (B), 108 articles focus on using textiles as a retrofitting material and a complementary substance in the sandwich sections. In detail, these articles discuss the mechanical behavior of structural elements strengthened with TRC, sandwich composite faces, the dynamic and fatigue responses of composites, and the prestressing behavior of TRC beams. The studies on TRC further focus on bond-slip relations (26 articles) and application as a structural element. In the aspect of research on bond-slip relations (C), most articles explain the bond behavior [37,38], pull-out response of fibres, and interface relations through numerical and experimental methods. Articles related to TRC applications (D) address the evolution, fabrication, and design of TRC as structural elements such as shells, facade panels, and bridges. The research papers on TRC have been published in 84 different journals. . As shown, the leading two journals in this area are Beton- und Stahlbetonbau and Construction and Building Materials. The main themes in these publications are the material properties of TRC (A) followed by the composite behavior of TRC (B). 1.2.4. Countries focusing on textile-reinforced concrete The distribution of TRC-based publications according to countries has been determined. The two countries leading the research in this area are China and Germany, accounting for approximately 60 per cent of the total publications. The large number of publications in these countries reflect their focus on using sustainable materials and technology. In countries such as China and France, 75 per cent of their research is conducted on the use of TRC in retrofitting technology (e.g., strengthening columns or beams). Germany is the most advanced country in terms of using TRC as a reinforcing material (e.g., application as sandwich facades, shells, and bridges). In regard to international collaborations, researchers from Germany have collaborated widely with those from other countries, such as Israel, Sweden, and Austria. However, other countries are still in the early stages of adopting TRC technology; hence, the research is limited to the determination of material behavior rather than its applications. For this analysis, the minimum number of both documents and citations for a country was set at 5. This resulted in a total of 20 out of 40 countries that met the threshold. It is found that the network lines indicate the citations of TRC research undertaken jointly between different countries. According to the size of the regional nodes and the density of the connecting lines, the China, Germany, USA, Canada, and Israel regions were found to be the most active in collaborating with other regions, despite the number of publications. 2. Discussions on TRC research areas 2.1. Material properties of TRC TRC is a composite structure, which consists of the textile fibre and the concrete matrix. The typical properties of the concrete and the textile embedded in it are discussed in the following sections. 2.1.1. Textile fibre Steel has traditionally been used as a reinforcing material in concrete due to its high tensile strength and ductile behavior. However, steel is often associated with high carbon emissions during production and higher cost due to the depletion of natural resources. Moreover, steel requires sufficient concrete cover for corrosion protection, causing larger sections in an otherwise slender member. Possible substitutions for steel as reinforcement have been explored and the usage of textile reinforcement has been proposed by many researchers. Fibre, yarn, and fabric are various forms of reinforcement that have been used as reinforced fibre composites. Textile reinforcements were initially used in the form of chopped and short fibres. The use of mesh or continuous reinforcement has been explored over the past two decades because of its flexibility and ability to be fabricated into complex shapes. Fibres can be classified into two types, natural and man-made fibres. The main sources of natural textile fibres are animals, plants, and natural minerals, whereas synthetic materials and ceramics fabricated using mineral fibres are considered as man-made. Natural fibres made of animal products are not applicable in the construction field, while plant-produced fibres could be used to some extent by having them chemically treated. The most suitable and commonly used fibres in engineering structures are synthetic fibres because of their enhanced mechanical properties and stable nature. Different fibres have been listed along with their mechanical properties. It is found that  manmade fibres typically have higher tensile strength and elastic modulus compared to natural fibres, making them preferable for use in structural applications. A set of combined fibres interlocked and used for sewing, weaving, or knitting is called yarn. A single yarn (filament) typically has a diameter of 5–30 µm and, when combined in thousands, is called roving. The major issue with using textiles directly as reinforcement is their poor bonding in concrete. To improve the bonding of yarns in concrete, three manufacturing techniques have been developed: cabled, friction-spun, and commingled yarns. Fabric is a combination of a group of yarns. They are classified based on the manufacturing procedure, namely woven, nonwoven, and knitted. Woven fabrics are produced by weaving a set of yarns interlaced perpendicularly. The yarns that run along the length of the fabric are known as warp yarns, while those on the other side are called weft yarns. For construction applications, leno-type fabrics are used, whereby two sets of warp yarns are twisted around the weft yarn to form a grid-like structure. It is common to find textile fabrics woven in the form of a mesh, with specific mesh sizes in the warp and weft directions. The presence of a mesh increases the bond between the concrete and the textile, thus increasing the overall structural strength. Mesh sizes between 5/5 and 10/10 mm (warp/weft directions) are commonly used in structural applications (for example) Three types of materials are mainly used as textile reinforcement, namely carbon, AR glass, and basalt. Carbon textile is abundantly used in TRC. The properties explaining its frequent usage include its high ductility, tensile strength (1100–4000 MPa), and Young’s modulus (150–235 GPa). Commonly used mesh sizes are 5/5–8/8 mm (warp/weft directions). This material is widely used in shells, slabs, and most structural applications. The next most widely used fibre in TRC is AR glass textile. It has a tensile strength of 120–790 MPa and a Young’s Modulus of 30–40 GPa, and it is less ductile than carbon fibre. Commonly used mesh sizes are 5/5–10/10 mm. Based on the mechanical properties, this material is limited to secondary structural applications such as facade panels, formwork, and non-load-bearing partition walls. The fibre least commonly used in TRC is basalt. This material is always used with coated resins because of its low mechanical properties in comparison with the other available fibres. The tensile strength of basalt (with coating) ranges from 490 to 890 MPa and its Young’s Modulus ranges from 28 to 45 GPa. Commonly used mesh sizes are 5/5–25/25 mm. This material is one of the more sustainable alternatives and is used in riverbanks (bunds) and nonstructural elements. A comparison of the stress-strain relationship of steel and carbon textile mesh reinforcements. Steel reinforcement yields at a stress of fs,y corresponding to the strain of εs,y (approximately 0.3 per cent). Upon yielding, the steel undergoes significant ductility until it fails at the ultimate stress and strain of fs,u and εs,lim, respectively. In comparison, carbon textile reinforcement has a lower initial stiffness compared to steel, up to the strain of εt,1. An increase in stiffness occurs beyond εt,1 as the yarns elongate. Brittle failure occurs once the ultimate limit strain εt,lim has been reached, which prevents the widespread use of textile reinforcement. 2.1.2. Coatings When filaments are bundled, microscopic gaps are formed between the fibres that cannot be penetrated by the cement matrix, causing a nonhomogeneous textile-cement composite. Due to this, only the outer end filaments will be strained, resulting in the straining of only 35 per cent of the roving capacity. To overcome these effects, the textiles are coated to stabilise the inner structure of the filaments, ultimately increasing their tensile strength. By coating the textile reinforcement, the load can be transferred more homogeneously among the filaments that enhance the load-bearing capacity, producing a smoother response to loads. Coatings such as epoxy resin or styrene-butadiene have shown encouraging results in terms of tensile stress and maximum ultimate strain. Epoxy resin is generally used for planar members or molded reinforcements such as facades and web reinforcement for T-beam bridges. Meanwhile, rolled-up sections such as temporary reinforcements used for renovations are produced using styrene-butadiene as the fibre coating. Experimental work was carried out by to compare the effect of coatings (epoxy resin and styrene-butadiene) on two different fibre materials, namely AR-glass and carbon, in terms of the load-carrying capacity and stress-strain behavior. The results showed that the fibres coated with epoxy resin achieved considerably higher tensile strength compared to those coated with styrene-butadiene. Researchers have coated the textile surface with sand to increase the bond strength and ultimately increase the bearing strength of the element. Figure 8: Comparison of different textiles and coatings under tensile stress. Based on the extensive literature review, carbon fibre mesh with an epoxy coating is the most common type of fibre reinforcement used for structural applications due to its high tensile strength. AR glass with a coating is also widely used in non-load-bearing structural elements as it is cost-effective and shows good bonding behavior with concrete. 2.1.3. Cement matrix The cement matrix for TRC comprises binders, fine-grained aggregates, and a low water-to-binder ratio. The matrix has to be designed to be physically and chemically compatible with textile reinforcement. When choosing the binding material, the main parameters are (i) its high strength, based on the application, (ii) a sufficient bond between the reinforcement and cement matrix, (iii) its workability during fabrication and setting, (iv) its geometrical stability, (v) the production process, and (vi) low shrinkage and creep. The rheological properties of concrete (incorporated with textile reinforcement) are enhanced by various compositions of the cement-based matrix. The most frequently used binder content for TRC is 40–50 per cent, with a water-to-binder ratio ranging from 0.29 to 0.40. An increase in binder content improves the bonding of mortar with reinforcement. The grain size ranges from 1 to 2 mm, depending on the mesh size of the reinforcement used. The addition of pozzolans in the cement matrix increases its alkalinity. However, there are no concerns in maintaining the pH balance as the textile used in TRC is alkali-resistant. The mineral admixtures often used in TRC include fly ash, micro silica, and metakaolin. Due to their small particle size and highly pozzolanic reactivity, these materials improve the bonding and mechanical performances. Durability is ultimately improved due to their lower permeability. A substantial replacement of cement with fly ash increases the dicalcium silicate (C2S) content, which leads to an increase in carbonation. The hardened concrete properties are assessed based on mechanical behavior during compression and tension. The typical application of TRC demands special concrete that is more durable, more ductile, and stronger than normal concrete. Based on the literature, the typical compressive strength used in the cement matrix is 50–60 MPa for structural applications (for example,. A higher strength of 120 MPa has also been used for filigree construction and bearing applications in architecture. 2.1.4. Cost analysis Similar to conventional reinforced concrete, the production cost of TRC-fabricated elements depends on the fibre used, the type of structural application, and the labor costs. For instance, if a structure is designed to resist major chemical attacks, then high-strength fibre (with high-cost carbon) should be selected as reinforcement. In addition, polymer-based coatings are also applied, which increase the overall cost. For normal applications such as shells and facades, low-cost textiles (basalt or glass fibres) can be used. The concrete cost will also vary depending on the type of structural application. For instance, when constructing a traditional reinforced concrete flat slab, grade 30 concrete is used (fck = 30 N/mm2). If TRC is used instead, a self-compacting concrete of grade 45 (fck = 45 N/mm2) is required to avoid vibration during material placing. Even though TRC requires higher concrete strength, a slender section can be designed that reduces the overall material cost compared to that of conventional concrete. In addition, the concrete used for TRC possesses high workability, which reduces the labor cost, based on the simplified placement of textile mats and the ease of concrete casting when self-compacting concrete is used. Moreover, the time-dependent costs, such as those of equipment and scaffolding, can be minimised using TRC. (This is the first part of the article; the second will appear in our next edition.) References * Afroughsabet, V.; Biolzi, L.; Ozbakkaloglu, T. High-Performance Fibre-Reinforced Concrete: A Review. J. Mater. Sci. 2016, 51, 6517–6551. * Pakravan, H.R.; Latifi, M.; Jamshidi, M. Hybrid short fiber reinforcement system in concrete: A review. Constr. Build. Mater. 2017, 142, 280–294. * Michler, I.H. Segmentbrücke aus textilbewehrtem Beton—Rottachsteg Kempten im Allgäu. Beton Stahlbetonbau 2013, 108, 325–334. * Rempel, S.; Kulas, C.; Hegger, J. Bearing Behavior of Impregnated Textile. In Proceedings of the FERRO-11—11th International Symposium on Ferrocement and 3rd ICTRC—International Conference on Textile Reinforced Concrete, Aachen, Germany, 7–10 June 2015; pp. 71–78. * Triantafillou, T.; Papanicolaou, C.G. Shear strengthening of reinforced concrete members with textile reinforced mortar (TRM) jackets. Mater. Struct. 2006, 39, 93–103. * Triantafillou, T.C.; Papanicolaou, C.G.; Zissimopoulos, P.; Laourdekis, T. Concrete Confinement with Textile-Reinforced Mortar Jackets. ACI Struct. J. 2006, 103, 28–37. * Hegger, J.; Voss, S. Investigations on the bearing behaviour and application potential of textile reinforced concrete. Eng. Struct. 2008, 30, 2050–2056. * Yin, S.; Xu, S.; Li, H. Improved mechanical properties of textile reinforced concrete thin plate. J. Wuhan Univ. Technol. Mater. Sci. Ed. 2013, 28, 92–98. * Du, Y.; Zhang, X.; Zhou, F.; Zhu, D.; Zhang, M.; Pan, W. Flexural behavior of basalt textile-reinforced concrete. Constr. Build. Mater. 2018, 183, 7–21. * Ombres, L. Prediction of intermediate crack debonding failure in FRP-strengthened reinforced concrete beams. Compos. Struct. 2010, 92, 322–329. * Lee, M.; Mata-Falcón, J.; Kaufmann, W. Load-deformation behaviour of weft-knitted textile reinforced concrete in uniaxial tension. Mater. Struct. 2021, 54, 210. * Valeri, P.; Ruiz, M.F.; Muttoni, A. Tensile response of textile reinforced concrete. Constr. Build. Mater. 2020, 258, 119517. About the author: * A Jothimanikandan and Dr N Gokarneshan are from the the Department of Textile Chemistry, SSM College of Engineering, Komarapalayam, Tamil Nadu. * Dr C Kayalvizhiis from the Department of Textile Technology, RVS College of Engineering and Technology, Dindigal, Tamil Nadu. * Dr M Ezhilarasi, N Sakthivel and MVignesh are from the Department of Civil Engineering, SSM College of Engineering, Komarapalayam, Tamil Nadu. * K K Hema is from the Department of Mechanical Engineering, SSM College of Engineering, Komarapalayam, Tamil Nadu. The post Reinventing concrete with textiles appeared first on Indian Textile Journal.

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Anvar Jay Varadaraj: We’ve heavily invested in R&D to boost energy performance. With 65 years of experience in manufacturing air compressors, ELGi is a global leader in providing sustainable compressed air solutions. ELGi designs and manufactures an extensive range of innovative and technologically advanced compressed air solutions for a variety of industry applications. Anvar Jay Varadaraj, COO of Elgi Equipments, discusses key factors to consider when purchasing a compressor, highlights the importance of air audits, and shares the company’s future plans in this interview with Divya Shetty. What key factors should a textile factory consider when selecting a compressor, and how can it ensure the chosen model aligns with its specific operational requirements? Textile factories must approach compressor selection with a deep understanding of their operational requirements to ensure efficiency and cost-effectiveness. The first step is to evaluate the actual air demand across various processes such as spinning, weaving, dyeing, and equipment cleaning. Overestimating needs, often due to unseen losses from leaks, rust, or poorly designed piping, can lead to the selection of oversized compressors that waste energy and increase costs. By accurately assessing consumption and minimizing inefficiencies, manufacturers can determine the appropriate capacity needed. Equally important is the design of the piping system; following best practices recommended by compressor manufacturers helps maintain stable pressure and volume delivery throughout the plant. Understanding how compressed air is used is also critical. In many cases, textile mills rely heavily on air for cleaning, an energy-intensive activity that could be managed more efficiently with alternative methods or smaller, dedicated compressors. Additionally, factories should avoid setting unnecessarily high-pressure levels, as most downstream equipment includes built-in safety buffers. Even a small reduction in pressure, by just one bar, can yield energy savings of 10 to 15 percent. Ultimately, before investing in a new or upgraded compressor, textile manufacturers should holistically review their air system design, usage patterns, and maintenance practices. Doing so often reveals that a smaller, more efficient compressor can meet their needs while significantly reducing energy consumption and operational costs. How do you evaluate the current landscape of the air engineering industry in India, and what growth opportunities do you foresee, particularly in textiles? Textile customers prioritize energy efficiency, reliability, air quality, and, naturally, price, especially amid rising competition and lower-cost imports that feature technologies such as permanent magnet motors and variable frequency drives (VFDs). To stay ahead, we’ve heavily invested in R&D to boost energy performance. Our new ELGi EG Super Premium compressors feature newly configured two-stage airends that deliver up to 15 per cent savings in specific power consumption. Combined with low-speed operation and reduced load at each stage, this configuration significantly enhances the longevity of components and the overall reliability of the system. We’ve also introduced Stabilisor technology – a cost-effective alternative to VFDs. While VFDs adjust motor speed based on demand, reducing energy waste, many customers find them too expensive. Stabilisor offers similar benefits mechanically, reducing unloading cycles and cutting energy use without the complexity or high cost. This not only improves efficiency but also lowers mechanical wear, extending component life and enabling us to offer longer warranties. It enhances operational reliability—crucial, since downtime can erase any upfront savings from a cheaper, less reliable machine. Ultimately, our goal is to reduce total cost of ownership by optimising energy use, lowering maintenance needs, and ensuring long-term performance. Why are air audit programmes essential in manufacturing operations? Air audit programmes play a critical role in maintaining the efficiency, reliability, and cost-effectiveness of compressed air systems in manufacturing operations—especially for large factories or those without deep in-house expertise in air management. These audits, typically conducted every 18 to 24 months depending on operational complexity, are essential because compressed air systems are not static; they evolve with use. Over time, the continuous flow of air causes vibrations, shifts components, and leads to the development of leaks or pressure drops. Simultaneously, usage patterns often change as production needs shift, making routine evaluations imperative. A comprehensive air audit identifies and addresses these performance drifts. It assesses whether the compressor is functioning within design specifications, verifies if maintenance schedules are being followed, and checks for operational issues like elevated temperatures or inconsistent output. More importantly, it evaluates the entire air network—tracing leaks, detecting corrosion, and flagging inefficient practices such as overuse of air for cleaning. It also inspects air quality to ensure there are no harmful levels of oil or moisture that could damage downstream equipment or affect product quality. Beyond diagnostics, a well-executed audit often reveals actionable insights that can lead to measurable savings, some of which may require no investment at all. In other cases, minor upgrades recommended post-audit can deliver significant long-term gains. Moreover, audit partners often work closely with internal maintenance teams to establish ongoing best practices, ensuring that the compressed air system continues to operate efficiently and sustainably. In short, air audit programmes are not just a technical check-up; they are a strategic tool for enhancing operational performance and reducing energy waste. What are the latest innovations in compressors and ELGi’s contributions? ELGi continues to lead innovation in compressed air technology with a focus on enhancing efficiency, reliability, and adaptability—especially for sectors like textiles where energy consumption directly impacts profitability. One of our key advancements is the launch of the EG Super Premium compressors, a new addition to the renowned EG Series portfolio of oil-lubricated screw air compressors. These machines mark a significant step forward in compressed air technology, delivering energy efficiency improvements of up to 15 per cent*, along with best-in-class warranty, performance, and low life cycle costs in the 75–160 kW range. The EG Super Premium compressors are now commercially available, enabling customers to achieve enhanced performance while reducing energy consumption. To drive further energy savings, ELGi has adopted permanent magnet motors as a standard feature. When combined with Variable Frequency Drives (VFDs), these motors significantly lower unload power consumption. Recognising that not all operations can accommodate the complexity of VFDs, we’ve also introduced Stabilisor technology—a cost-effective, simplified alternative that delivers comparable energy efficiency benefits. Stabilisor is currently undergoing field trials, and select textile manufacturers are being onboarded as early adopters. Another often overlooked but critical system component is the air dryer. Poor moisture management can degrade system performance, so we’re engineering modular dryers that can be either integrated within the compressor or used as standalone units. These dryers are competitively priced, deliver high performance, and are a testament to our vertically integrated approach—ensuring consistent quality across all system elements. In line with the shift towards smart manufacturing, ELGi has launched Air~Alert, a real-time monitoring system that tracks key operating parameters such as air consumption, pressure levels, and output efficiency. This platform provides maintenance teams with actionable insights to optimize energy use and improve system uptime. Together, these innovations reflect ELGi’s commitment to addressing the evolving demands of textile manufacturing, delivering solutions that not only improve performance but also drive long-term operational savings. What are ELGi’s future plans regarding product innovation and market expansion? In the AB Series, that we launched 5 years ago, water serves as the primary medium for cooling, sealing, and lubrication within the compression chamber. ELGi’s design circulates water in a closed loop, eliminating the need for external water treatment systems.  By maintaining water within a sealed circuit, the system ensures compliance with IS:10500-2012 standards. The absence of oil and the use of a closed water circuit minimize the risk of contamination, making the AB Series ideal for industries requiring high air purity, such as textiles. Though not yet as efficient as oil-lubricated machines, it’s improving steadily, and many customers are already benefiting from this technology. With continued R&D, we expect wider adoption in textiles. Technology accounts for just 50–60 per cent of an effective compressed air solution. The rest depends on exceptional aftermarket support—and that’s where we differentiate ourselves. At ELGi, our service philosophy is built on 100 per cent trust. We don’t let warranties become a point of friction; instead, we prioritize fast, reliable, and dispute-free support. When we commit to restoring compressed air within hours, we deliver. Our engineers are trained not just to respond quickly, but to resolve issues right the first time. Choosing a compressor may take a few days, but interacting with the brand is a decade-long journey. That’s why we’re constantly looking ahead anticipating our customers’ evolving needs and adapting our service model accordingly. As the industry shifts more maintenance responsibility from customers to OEMs, we’re proactively preparing by asking two key questions: What do customers need today? And what will they need five years from now? Our goal is to align with those answers, delivering not just compressors, but peace of mind throughout the lifecycle. * When compared with single stage compressors The post Anvar Jay Varadaraj: We’ve heavily invested in R&D to boost energy performance. appeared first on Indian Textile Journal.

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Ensuring compliance, empowering industry To align safety practices in Indian textile machinery with global standards, Quality Control Orders (QCOs) are being introduced in the sector—let’s break them down for better understanding. Indian standards are currently being developed, revised, and updated on a priority basis across multiple Ministries and sectors. To date, a total of 187 Quality Control Orders (QCOs) covering 769 products have been issued, mandating BIS certification by various regulators and line ministries of the Government of India. Textile machinery is among the categories covered, with implementation scheduled to begin from August 2025. Amid concerns and negative narratives circulating about the upcoming QCO, the Textile Machinery Manufacturers Association (TMMA) has taken steps to raise awareness among stakeholders. In this article, the association aims to clarify the objectives of the QCO and highlight its benefits for the textile industry. Understanding QCO: What it is? A Quality Control Order (QCO) is a legal notification issued under the BIS Act, 2016. It makes compliance with specific Indian Standards compulsory for manufacturing or importing specified products. Products listed under QCOs must carry the Standard Mark (ISI mark) after obtaining a valid license from the Bureau of Indian Standards. For machinery, especially capital goods like textile processing equipment, weaving machinery, spinning machinery, gearboxes, compressors, motors, and other critical components, QCOs ensure that the design, safety, functionality, and reliability are maintained at an acceptable standard level. Why the QCO matters for the Indian machinery sector The QCO is a transformational policy tool with far-reaching implications. Here are the key reasons why this move is highly relevant and timely: Protecting domestic industry: India has long faced the challenge of cheap, substandard machinery imports that undercut domestic prices, compromise quality, and discourage innovation. The QCO levels the playing field by ensuring all market players adhere to the same baseline quality standards, whether they are domestic or foreign manufacturers. No dealers or agents, or assemblers are considered for this certification. Boosting export potential: With BIS certification in place, Indian manufacturers align with global best practices. This builds international trust in Indian-made machinery, opening up opportunities for exports to developed markets that demand high quality and compliance. Promoting safety and efficiency: QCOs mandate quality assurance across materials, design, electrical/mechanical safety, and environmental impact. This significantly reduces operational hazards, downtimes, and maintenance costs, especially in high-volume production industries like textiles. Encouraging technological upgrades: To comply with BIS norms, many manufacturers will need to modernize their production processes, invest in R&D, and implement quality management systems—a move that ultimately leads to industrial modernization. Strengthening Make in India and Atmanirbhar Bharat: By encouraging reliance on high-quality Indian machinery, the QCO supports the larger vision of building an independent, self-reliant industrial economy, less dependent on low-cost imports. TMMA’s viewpoint: Supporting quality, securing growth As a key industry body representing Indian textile machinery manufacturers, TMMA (India) strongly supports the implementation of QCOs. We believe this is a step in the right direction toward uplifting the standard of Indian capital goods and encouraging fair trade practices. TMMA is actively working to: * Educate stakeholders about the scope and implications of the QCO * Assist manufacturers in understanding BIS compliance processes * Collaborate with BIS and related authorities to streamline testing and certification infrastructure * Encourage dialogue among government, industry, and users to resolve implementation challenges Benefits of QCO for the industry Benefits of QCO for the industry Impact on textile machinery manufacturers For textile machinery makers, this is an opportunity to elevate industry standards. The textile sector is rapidly modernizing with smart manufacturing, automation, and energy-efficient solutions. QCOs will ensure that only high-performing, durable, and sustainable machines serve the market. Manufacturers that embrace this change early will gain a first-mover advantage—becoming preferred vendors for large textile houses, government tenders, and international buyers. Implementation and compliance: What manufacturers must do Here’s what machinery manufacturers should do to ensure smooth compliance: Ø  Identify if your product is covered under the QCO * Apply for BIS certification via the official BIS portal * Prepare technical documentation, test samples, and factory audit readiness * Cooperate with BIS auditors and testing agencies * Label machinery with ISI mark upon approval TMMA urges all members and stakeholders to not wait for the deadline and start early to avoid bottlenecks closer to the enforcement date. What this means for buyers and end-users Buyers, especially MSMEs, often fall prey to substandard, low-cost machinery that leads to frequent breakdowns and financial losses. QCO enforcement ensures they can now choose from certified suppliersand invest in equipment that guarantees: * Longer lifespan * Better after-sales support * Compliance with energy and safety regulations * Lower overall lifecycle cost In short, QCOs empower users to make informed, risk-free purchases. TMMA’s role going forward As a responsible association, TMMA will continue to: * Conduct awareness drives, webinars, and training for members * Publish guidelines, FAQs, and compliance toolkits * Liaise with BIS and the Ministry for implementation clarity * Support members in certification and testing challenges * Promote domestic R&D and indigenizationof high-value machinery components Conclusion The Quality Control Order is a reformative, future-forward regulation that will redefine India’s position in the global machinery landscape. By mandating quality, it ensures that Indian manufacturers no longer compete on cost alone, but on reliability, performance, and innovation. TMMA calls upon all stakeholders—manufacturers, buyers, importers, and regulators—to come together and build a strong, quality-centric machinery ecosystem that is ready to meet the demands of modern industry and global trade. Let us make Indian machinery world-class in every sense.                    This article has been contributed by TMMA. The post Ensuring compliance, empowering industry appeared first on Indian Textile Journal.

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