What is a sting jet? Strong storms have many layered features. Some winds roar for hours across wide areas. Others strike suddenly in narrow corridors with intense force - like a 'sting jet.'

Sting jets can increase wave heights locally because they bring a burst of very strong surface winds over the ocean. But the main issue is the unpredictability of their impacts.

#stingjet #weather #meteorology #surfforecast #surf #surfing

The story behind the yellow wave buoys powering surf forecasts in the US In 1975, the Coastal Data Information Program (CDIP) developed a system that collected wave data and transmitted it to Scripps Institution of Oceanography via regular telephone lines.

The famous yellow buoys of the Coastal Data Information Program (CDIP) are celebrating their 50th anniversary. They power the most accurate surf forecasts in the United States.

#cdip #oceanbuoy #scripps #surfforecast #surf #surfing

Cc: @scrippsocean.bsky.social

The wind-to-wave height table Check how long it takes the wind to blow over a fetch to generate a certain wave height and wave period.

A wind blowing at 34-40 knots for 36 hours will produce a 14-second swell period and waves of around 37 feet.

#windspeed #waveheight #surfforecast #surfscience #surf #surfing

How fast do ocean swells travel? What is the speed of a swell as it travels across the ocean? How can you calculate when it will reach your surf break? Here's all the math you need to know.

Wave speed matters. Here are a few simple equations that can tell you a lot about a groundswell and when it will reach your favorite surf break.

#groundswell #waves #surfscience #surfforecast #oceanography #surf #surfing

How surfers can predict wave height just by reading the wind The SMB method is a semi-empirical system that estimates wave height and period from wind speed, fetch, or duration. It assumes deep water and steady wind blowing over an open water surface.

If a weather map shows a 30 kilometers per hour wind (that's 8.3 m/s) blowing across 200 kilometers of open ocean for several hours, you'll probably get around head-high surf.

#waveheight #windspeed #waveforecast #smbmethod #surfforecast #surfscience #surf #surfing

How ocean swells propagate, disperse, and group After they're created by the wind and before they reach the coastline, waves go through several propagation processes, including merging and changes in travel speed.

There are a lot of random events taking place between the birth and breaking of a wave, making a surfer's ride an even more unique and rare moment.

#swell #surfscience #surfforecast #waves #oceanography #surf #surfing

Hawaii County Surf Forecast for January 02, 2025 More Details

Big waves incoming for Big Island's north and west shores. 🌊 Expect advisory-level surf Thursday, with even bigger swells peaking this weekend. Stay safe and enjoy the ride! #Hawaii #SurfForecast #HawaiiNews

🌊 Heads up, surfers: A new northwest swell is hitting Niihau, Kauai, and Oahu, with high surf advisories likely expanding to Maui. Expect chest-high swells and choppy conditions. Stay safe out there. #SurfForecast #Hawaii #HawaiiNews

Hawaii County Surf Forecast for December 31, 2024 More Details

Surf's up on the Big Island. Medium NW swell continues through Tuesday, with a large swell hitting Wednesday. Expect choppy conditions on east shores due to trade winds. #HawaiiWeather #SurfForecast 🌊 #HawaiiNews

Sunny mornings and isolated showers mark Maui's forecast, with light winds and dry conditions persisting through midweek. Big surf is on the horizon, peaking by Friday. #MauiWeather #SurfForecast #HawaiiNews

Hawaii County Surf Forecast for December 16, 2024 More Details

Surf's up on Big Island: Expect chest-high swells on NE shores and a big wave boost on NW shores by Tuesday. Keep an eye on minor coastal flooding due to peak tides. 🌊 #HawaiiWeather #SurfForecast #HawaiiNews

Hawaii County Surf Forecast for December 13, 2024 More Details

Surf alert: Big Island's north and west shores to see elevated waves tonight, with a significant swell hitting next week. Stay tuned for potential high surf warnings. 🌊 #Hawaii #SurfForecast #HawaiiNews

Catch the waves on Big Island! 🌊 North shores see chest-high swells, while east shores stay rough. Leeward side enjoys sunny skies and calmer seas. What's your plan? #HawaiiWeather #SurfForecast #HawaiiNews

🌊 Exciting surf update for the Big Island: Expect chest to head high waves on north shores Monday with a mix of north-northwest swells and out-of-season south swells. Stay safe and catch those waves! 🏄‍♂️ #SurfForecast #HawaiiSurf #HawaiiNews

Get ready for a surf adventure on the Big Island. High surf advisory for west-facing shores with waves peaking Friday night. Plus, a sunny Friday is on the horizon. #BigIslandWeather #SurfForecast 🌊🏄‍♂️ #HawaiiNews

Surf's up on Big Island's north and west shores this weekend, with swells peaking on Sunday. Expect choppy conditions and a chance of showers, but plenty of sunshine too. 🌊 #BigIslandWeather #SurfForecast #HawaiiNews

Hawaii County Surf Forecast for November 16, 2024 More Details

High surf alert for Big Island's east shores this weekend. 🌊 Expect rough, choppy waves, while sunny skies grace the leeward side. Stay safe or enjoy the surf responsibly. #HawaiiWeather #SurfForecast