Museum photo of a three-piece beachwear outfit in black silk and cotton, consisting of a dress, trousers, and bonnet. The bonnet has a small trail/capelet to cover the neck and shoulders at the sides and rear. It is edged in white, which accentuates the frilly cut all the way around the face. It is slightly peaked at the front, for more shading from the Sun. The dress is a simple cut. cinched in at the waist, with full length sleeves, tight cuffs, and an A-line skirt to knee length. The neckline is deep and v-shaped, with a white blouse beneat. Trousers are gathered just below the knee, and look quite loose. https://www.metmuseum.org/art/collection/search/156035

Beachwear, France, 1900

This is lovely, especially the bonnet. Apparently these were not necessarily meant for swimming in - just for wearing at the beach. Corsetry and stockings may still have been expected for modesty. Fun outfit anyhow.

#fashionsky #fashionhistory #dresshistory #TheMet

Museum photo of a dark navy fitness ensemble in wool, cotton and linen. It consists in a white blouse, of which we can only see the puritan style collar. The trousers are high waisted, very loose fit and heavily pleated, with elasticated hems at the mid-calf. The top is again quite loose fit, tucked into the trousers, with a big pleat down the centre, and elasticated cuffs at the wrist.

Athletic ensemble, USA, 1900

I absolutely love these turn of the century fitness outfits (and the similarly styled swimming suits). The overall cut of this one is really lovely, and it looks so wearable. I could easily see myself doing yoga in it!

#fashionsky #fashionhistory #dresshistory #TheMet

Hey #bookhistory and #dresshistory peeps: who has written about clothing (linens, recycling) and papermaking together in a way that would be accessible to an educated general audience (my paper-obsessed mature students)?

Museum photo of a full length black silk ball gown, with sequins throughout. It has a scoop neckline, sleeves cut straight to the mid-upper arm, and a circular trail of additional fabric at the hem. This extends about a foot to the rear.

Ball gown, France, 1898

Simple, timeless ball gown here. Super elegant, with the sequins (?) really lifting the black silk. A lovely dress, but I always worry about trails getting dirty and damaged!

#fashionsky #fashionhistory #dresshistory #theMet

I’ve always thought this is such a pretty style. It seems to suit a wide variety of face shapes. #DressHistory

Protest with a side of playful #DressHistory

A filler article from The Evening Post, New-York Evening Post, New York, New York · Thursday, July 03, 1817, p. 2 It reads: "Extract of a letter, dated "Aquia, (Virg.) June 26, 1817. "I must now relate to you a very extraordinary circumstance. In repairing our church in this place, there were found secreted in a remote part of the steeple, several suits of clothing for men, women and children, together with several other articles. Among the clothing, which are apparently of ancient fashion, and have probably been there for many years, were stays, calimanco shoes with straps and buckles, &c. and what adds to the singularity of the affair, and gives interest to conjecture is that the whole appear to have been deposited there in a bloody state.— Many persons have been to examine them, and are totally at a loss to imagine when and in what manner they came there."

a section of a Google map showing the unincorporated community of Aquia, Virginia bounded by a red dotted line with route 1 and interstate 95 running vaguely NE to SW. Features in the area include Aquia Harbor, Widewater, Stafford, Leeland, Arkendale, Widewater Beach, and the Crow's Nest Natural Area Preserve

This one is for the clothing-hidden-in-buildings folks. Calimanco shoes were sold late into the 18th century. #DressHistory

Museum photo of a two piece cycling outfit, in very dark brown (or possibly charcoal). The skirt is almost full length, loose, fairly straight cut, with a lot of folds. The jacket is really interesting. It sits high above the hips, and is fastened by two large buttons laid out horizontally just above the bust. The lower part of the jacket sweeps on a slight diagonal from the fastening to the hips, so the lower midriff would be exposed. Sleeves are gigot style, so quite large at the shoulders, tapering to narrow wrists. The lapels are very large, reaching to the shoulders at their widest, and are in a pale cream colour, providing a really lovely accent against the darker fabric.

Cycling ensemble, France, 1895

Well I thought I was done with the 1800s but I guess not. I would not want to cycle in this, but those are epic lapels and the chunkiest buttons I've seen in a while. Awesome outfit.

#fashionsky #dresshistory #fashionhistory #TheMet

Ad from The Charleston Daily Courier, Charleston Courier, Charleston, South Carolina · Thursday, October 10, 1811, p .3 It reads: "MOURNING ARTICLES. Very fine and low priced Bombazeens Black Bombazets, from 1s. 9d. to 4s. 8d. per yard 4-4,5-4 and Hat band Crapes Love Handkerchiefs Back Camels Hair Shawls, and Barcelona Handkerchiefs Black Shalloons, Russells and Calimancos Ladies' and misses black cotton and black worsted hose Gentlemen's and youth's,black cotton and worsted hose Black Love and Sarsnet Ribbons-all widths Black Modes and white sarcnets for scarfs Black silk Hose-Gentlemen's, Laidies', and Misses' Black silk Gloves ditto ditto ditto Best black superfine CLOTHS; black silk Velvet Black Cassimeres, single and double mill'd and black Florentine

Here's another one for @chriswoodyard.bsky.social In Charleston South Carolina, William and George Hall had this section in their larger ad for Fall Goods in October 1811. #DressHistory #TextileHistory

Calimanco (the thing I'm researching) is milled to have a decided sheen.

Museum photo of a full length ball gown in very pale cream, with gold detailing. The skirt has a slight bustle and structure to the sides and rear, with a long train. The standout feature of it is golden butterflies that are woven into the fabric itself. At the hem they are very large, and more butterflies sweep up the left and right side of the skirt, getting smaller as they approach the waist. The bodice is structured and tight fitting, with a curving hem. More butterflies feature here. An interesting feature is that the upper part of the bodice is cut back on the left side, revealing a layer of voluminous golden lace. The sleeves just at the shoulders - further piles of puffy, voluminous golden lace.

Ball gown, France, 1898

I'm finishing the 19th century on a high - this incredible ballgown from the House of Worth. There's a lot to love here, but the butterflies that seem to be flying away into the distance is unique and strikingly beautiful.

#fashionsky #fashionhistory #dresshistory #TheMet

You can even see she’s wearing mitts! #DressHistory

Worth clicking through and zooming in to see the somewhat enigmatic laundry mark. What do you suppose the “53” means? #DressHistory

Back view of an 18th century (c. 1760) fashion doll or "pandora". The doll has grey hair, done up in a chignon, with some hair left loose falling down in soft curls near the nape of the neck. The gown that the doll wears is a robe à la française made of chintz. The fabric of the gown falls from the shoulders into the skirt in a loose pleat (pli Watteau) typical for this style of dress. Horizontally the skirt is very wide, exaggerating the shape of the hips. The skirt is made out of three panels of fabric. The chintz fabric has a light brownish background, with printed onto it a design of vines and flowers with red, green and blue colours. Rijksmuseum Amsterdam, object number BK-NM-3396

The same pandora, this time from a 3/4 view. The bodice of the gown is open and filled in with a stomacher (piece d'estomac) of brown linnen, decorated with pink silk ribbon that has largely disintigrated. The skirt of the gown opens in the front, showing a petticoat of the same chintz fabric. Accessories: small collar of pink silk ribbon around the neck, tied in a bow at the front. Mitaines of white goat leather. Shoes of silk brocade.

At last the @rijksmuseum.bsky.social has made pictures from multiple angles available for some of the objects in their collection, which means I finally get to see the pli watteau of the chintz gown my favourite fashion doll wears in high resolution. #18thc #dresshistory

Museum photo of a women's riding outfit. It consists of a long cream coloured jacket, falling below the hips, with gigot sleeves, large buttons, and a velvet accented collar. Beneath this is a cream coloured plaid waistcoat, with a small white cravat (?) at the collar. The skirt feels almost stereotypical of the period and activity - its to mid-calf length, in an umber coloured fabric, almost resembling raw animal hide. White boots are worn, with gaiters in a slightly darker shade than the skirt.

Riding ensemble, USA, 1896

Belonged to Eleanor Hewitt of New Jersey, who favoured practical and menswear-inspired riding clothes. Some of the little touches in the outfit really help to sell it, e.g. the gigot sleeves and velvet collar. 🤠

#fashionhistory #dresshistory #TheMet #fashionsky #yeehaw

It’s a little hard to see the details, but the rat on the right, front row, is wearing a wrap-front apron, often called a Hooverette in the US. Ubiquitous in the ‘20s thru the ‘40s in the US, a little longer in the UK #DressHistory is where you find it 😉

An ad in the Hampshire Telegraph and Naval Chronicle, Portsmouth, Hampshire, England, Monday, November 11, 1805, p. 1. The ad reads: "TOWN OF PORTSEA. J. PINHORN, LINEN AND WOOLLEN DRAPER, MERCER, HOSIER, AND HABERDASHER, RESPECTFULLY begs leave to acquaint his friends and the Public(the Partnership between Mr. Richard Cockin and himself, being dif-folved ...) that he is just returned from London, having laid in a large and fashionable assortment of GOODS, at his OLD-ACCUSTOMED SHOP, No. 7, BUTCHER-STREET; Consisting of excellent 7-8 Colerain and 4-4 Irish Linens, Housewife, home-bleaked, and Ame-rican Cloaths; Lancashire, Drogheda, Russia and Irish Sheetings; Blankets, and Counterpanes; 4-4 and 5-4 Printed Calicos and Cambrics; Ginghams and Chambras; Chintz and other Furnitures; Corded Dimities; White Calicos; Bath and Weymouth Brown Cambrics for Pelisses; Black Modes; Sarsnets and Velvets; Black and White Britith Laces; Thread Laces and Edgings; Black Calicos, Cambrics, and Muslins; Striped Shirting; Cotton and Linens; Aprons and Shirting Checks; Welch and other Flannels; Black and Coloured Bombazets; Black Bombazeens; Striped and Black Calimancos; Scarlet and Beaver Cloaks; British and Russia Ducks; Printed and Norwich Shawls; Muffs and Tippets; Book, Jackonet; Cambric, and Mull Muslins; 3-4, 6-4, and 8-4 Huckabacks; Cotton Napkins; Long Lawns, and French Cambrics. Best Superfine BROAD CLOTHS; Toilinets and Swansdowns, Velveteens, Corduroys, and Bennett's Patent Cord. Men's, Women's, and Children's Hose; Threads, Tapes, Pins, &c. All of which are of the best fabrics, and which he is determined to render at the very lowest prices, trusting he shall thereby merit a continuance of that support from his Friends and the Public, which he has experienced for fo many years past. N. B. Shops supplied with every article in Haberdashery, at the wholesale prices. Ready made White, Striped, Linen, Cotton, and Check Shirts, wholesale and retail. FUNERALS FURNISHED.

In 1805 J. Pinhorn in Portsmouth could supply you with a wide variety of fabrics, ready-made shirts, and also FUNERAL FURNISHED #DressHistory

5th Duchess of Devonshire seated in black dress and holding her baby daughter ‘Little G’.

Does anyone have experience of using the Devonshire Collections Archive at Chatsworth House? All advice / recommendations welcome.

Excited to be there next week generously funded by #womensstudiesgroup

#eighteenthcentury
#dresshistory
#HistoryofPregnancy
#historyofWomen
#duchessofdevonshire

Image 1. Museum photo of a two piece women's cycling suit, in a soft brown colour. The jacket is tightly fitted, with a slightly flared hem. It has a broad formal suit collar, and ten buttons down the front. Interesting feature is the enlarged gigot-type upper sleeves, with the puff extending a couple of inches above the shoulder line. The skirt, from the front, looks unremarkable. It goes to about calf length, and has some paler coloured horizontal detailing just above the hem.

Image 2. Rear view of the same suit from image 1. Shows some nice pleating and additional detail strips of fabric on the rear of the jacket. The main interesting point is that, from the rear, we can see that the skirt is actually bifurcated, i.e. its not a skirt, but trousers. Very very wide and loose fitting trousers.

Cycling suit by Trouville, USA, 1896

Two of these in a row - I guess the bifurcated style was popular. The colour is a little dull, but I love the pleating on the back and the extravagance of the sleeves. Imagine cycling around in such a thing!

#dresshistory #fashionhistory #TheMet #fashionsky

Guess I better start assembling that jacket...

Head's up, EM #dresshistory #skystorians , looks like we're about to have a moment

(and, I'm sorry but Margot Robbie's ultra low-slung pants just look dumb with that pretty bodice)

Detail from plate. Full description on next image.

Magasin des Modes Nouvelles Françaises et Anglaises, 10 juin 1788, 3e Année, 21e cahier. Planche II. The coat worn by the young man depicted in this plate is of taffeta with distinct medium-width crimson and white (vertical) stripes. Beneath this coat, the young man wears a white ribbed basin waistcoat, forming stripes, known as ‘English basin’, trimmed with white piping; A pair of sky blue breeches, with a drawstring waist, buttonholes and garters embroidered in white thread. The garters taper at the ends; Silk stockings with broad blue and white (vertical) stripes blending into one another. On his shoes he wears long rectangular buckles. The frill and cuffs of his shirt are of plain batiste, hemmed with medium-width hems. Around his collar, a very wide muslin cravat, the ends of which first form a large bow at the front and then fall very low over the frill. His hair is curled into two ringlets, one above the other, very thick and very long, forming pigeon’s wings on either side, and into a Greek-style donkey’s back, split at the back in a horseshoe shape. His hair is tied low into a long, thin queue. On his head, a hat à l’Androsmane. In his right hand, a medium-sized bamboo cane, topped with a small golden knob. Rijksmuseum object number RP-P-2009-1669A Description from BnF Gallica: https://gallica.bnf.fr/ark:/12148/bpt6k1527903f/f3.item.zoom#

Young man wearing a crimson and white striped coat, sky blue breeches, blue and white striped stockings. On his head a hat à l'Androsmane. Magasin des Modes Nouvelles Françaises et Anglaises, 10 juin 1788. #FashionPlateFriday #dresshistory #18thc

Image 1. Museum photo of a two piece, brown, women's cycling suit. The top is a close fitting jacket, buttoned down the middle, with accent panels on the right and left side. The sleeves are slightly enlarged at the shoulder, and full length. The skirt is actually bifurcated, but from this angle it just appears to be a typical, calf length, straight-cut skirt. It has vertical rows of buttons on the front-right and front-left, in line with the accent panels on the top.

Image 2. Rear view of the same outfit from image 1. This shows more clearly how the skirt is bifurcated - we can see that each leg is separated, but this is disguised by the loose-fitting, folded fabric.

Cycling suit, USA, 1896

This is cool. Cycling was getting more popular/acceptable for women at the time, and here we have a bifurcated skirt to make it more practical - but still giving the impression of a full skirt. Really nice style.

#fashionsky #fashionhistory #dresshistory #ootd #TheMet

Clipping from The Public Advertiser, London, Greater London, England · Monday, January 09, 1758, p. 3 it reads: VERY fine Muslin Neckcloths are now selling for 3s. a piece, and some curious Muslins for Mourning at 6s. a Yard, fine Long Lawns at 4s. a Yard, and a Parcel of very fire thick Silesia Lawns at 6s. and 8s. a Yard, at FORSTER's Linen Warehouses at Charing-cross and in Portugal-street, Clare-market, and near the Bridge-foot, in the Borough: Also Irish Sheeting 11d. a Yard, fine ditto from 14d. to 3s. a Yard, good Colrain Irish Coths of the strongest Fabric at 14d. a Yard, very fine ditto at 2s. and some extraordinary fine and neat at 3s. and fine Scotch Hollands at 38. a Yard, remarkably cheap, very large and fine Damask and Diaper Table Cloths at 8s. a-piece. Fine black-ground Cottons, at 2 s. a Yard. The above Articles are sold for less Profits and much cheaper than common, which he is enabled to do by large and quick Returns."

"...some curious Muslins for Mourning..." this one's for you @chriswoodyard.bsky.social #DressHistory See alt text for details

Image 1. Museum photo of a pink silk ball gown. It has a full skirt, with folds at the side, waisted above the hips. This has a pink and cream floral pattern. The bodice is straight cut above the bust, and seems to be of layered silk. This is accented by a 3D floral silk element extending up the left side of the bodice, and two large shoulders of ruffled and folder cream and pink silk. Sleeveless.

Image 2. Rear view of the dress from image 1. No additional details here, other than thick black lacking up the back of the bodice.

Ball gown, House of Paquin, France, 1895

Apologies, no high res version of this.

I really get a sense of a beautiful, wearable flower here - the delicate pattern, ruffled shoulders and even the lacing for a stem. What a lovely design.

#fashionsky #fashionhistory #dresshistory #ootd #TheMet

First of all, these fancy silk waistcoats are due for a revival, this time for both men and women.

Second: Donated by International Business Machines?

#DressHistory

The shirts and shifts book is excellent, so I’ll add the other two to my wish list #DressHistory

Museum photo of a cream coloured wool-knit sweater. It has a turtle-neck, folded over once, enlarged gigot sleeves, long tight cuffs to the elbow, a waist band of tighter knit wool which is cinched in, and a slightly flared hem. Three buttons sit atop each shoulder, and two on each side of the collar. Unclear if these are functional or decorative.

Sportswear sweater, probably USA, 1895

This is maybe the nicest sweater I've ever seen. Its so fashionable with the gigot sleeves, cinched in waist, long cuffs - but also somehow casual. I adore it and would love to know who wore it.

#fashionhistory #dresshistory #ootd #fashionsky #TheMet

‘You know when you’ve hit it – it’s a transformation’: Ruth E Carter on building the bold world of Sinners The two-time Oscar winner on dressing Michael B Jordan’s twin antiheroes, her start with Spike Lee and crafting the period detail of Ryan Coogler’s genre-bending epic

The always fabulous Ruth E. Carter #DressHistory

Museum photo of a one-piece exercise suit in very dark green (or maybe grey). It has a cinched in waist with a thick (three to four inches) waist-band. The trousers go to mid-calf, where they are gathered and tied, and they are extremely roomy - lots of pleats, and the material expands out gently from the hips. The top is loose-fitting and resembles an old-fashioned sailor uniform. Full length, open cuff sleeves; a slightly deep V-cut neckline (to the upper sternum); broad, flat collar; and a knotted, chunky tie that hangs to the waist-band.

Gym suit, Columbia Gymnasium Suit Co, USA, 1895

Timeline cleanse. This gym suit is gorgeous - looks comfy and roomy enough for yoga, gymnastics, kicking people in the face, etc. But super stylish too - the cinched in waist and tie are lovely.

#fashionhistory #dresshistory #fashionsky #TheMet

Thank you to @erinmaglaque.bsky.social for this spirited piece on Caravaggio's art, street life and clothing drawing on themes from my book "Street Style".
#earlymodern
#dresshistory
🗃️🪡

Image 1. A museum photo of a cape, viewed from the front. It has a triangular cut at the rear, lower than the front, extending to the hips most likely. The front is more like abdomen level, sweeping up from the sides in a very gentle curve to a midpoint at the sternum. It is lined with white/ivory coloured ermine. The exterior is in black lace, accessorised with detailed black sequin work. There's a lot of ruffles going on at the collar and upper chest, and at the front, the sequins follow the curved line of the hem, with larger sequinned floral details every few inches just above this.

Image 2. Rear view of the cape from image 1. The same sequin work continues from the hem on the front, wrapping all the way around the rear However, the standout feature is the upper back. The lace is pulled down in a low scoop from shoulder to shoulder, and the plainer black fabric beneath it is embellished with incredibly beautiful sequin work, dominating the upper back area. I don't really know how to describe it, but there's an array of beautiful curves of sequins, and bunched sequins resembling flowers.

Evening cape, France, 1895

An absolutely extraordinary cape that just says "look at me!". In black lace & sequins, with ermine lining (I'm vegetarian, but this is beautiful). Make sure you check out the exquisite sequin work on the back.

#fashionsky #fashionhistory #dresshistory #ootd #TheMet