14 strips of one and a half inch wide moss green goatskin leather laid out on a cutting table
Up early, working on sewing for the #WineAndHoneyDoubłet. One side of the moss green goatskin provided 14 1-1/2 wide strips of leather. Time to fasten them together like bias tape and then insert the cording
#sewing, #HistoricalTailoring, #costuming.
#pluderhose, #HistoricalTailoring, #cosplay
Finished the second side of the prototype, I'm partial to the blue panes over the orange "puffs", but what do you think?
Also, this silk jacquard is so shiny, it's difficult to photograph, and ridiculously stiff!
#pluderhose, #HistoricalTailoring, #cosplay,
So, I've got the darts sewn on the orange puffs, and have the puff and blue panes pinned to the foundation (except the inside pane)
It's difficult to convey just how extreme/ludicrous these are. Going to try to do some work on the bluff puff yet tonight.
Picture of the orange silk puff for the pluderhose, folded so the top corners meet. There's a aluminum yardstick on top showing that the width from the fold (on the left) to the top right corner is 21 inches. Above the yardstick is a 4 inch length of cotton twill tape that will be the stay strip to stitch the gathered silk to.
1) Home from work, Let the madness begin! #pluderhose, #HistoricalTailoring, #costuming
Time to gather in the top edge, 42 inches of the leg "puffs" into a 4 inch width! (oh yeah, I found my yardstick!)
The 3 orange silk panels are that will go around the right leg. At top is a 19 inch wide panel. Below that is a 27 inch wide panel, and to the right is a 9 inch wide panel with a curve cut in the top to go under the leg
The three panels sewn together, waiting for the last seam to be sewn to make into a tube. On top is a tape measure showing a total width of 54 inches
The sewn together "puff" or "bag" with a tape measure on top showing that half of the upper edge measures 21 inches
1) #pluderhose, #HistoricalTailoring, #costuming
On to the leg puffs /bags. Sewing together the 3 panels for a combined circumference of 54 inches. The top, waist edge measures 42 inches, which will need to be gathered into a 4 inch width.
Pattern pieces for the codpiece. At left is the triangular base, to the right are the slightly mitten shaped pieces that will make the outer layer at the top they have a protruding knob shaped curve.
Picture of one side of the outer part of the codpiece, with a blue line around the knob from halfway along the top edge to halfway down the front edge showing the section that needs to be gathered
Picture of one half of the outer part of the codpiece with a tape measure around the curve of the "protrusion", showing a distance between of 5 inches.
1) #pluderhose, #HistoricalTailoring, #costuming
Today I'm going to start with work on the codpiece. The first step is to gather the protruding bump into 1/2 of its length. On this one, it will be gathering 5 inches down to around 2.5 inches.
The oddly shaped foundation of the pluderhose, with the buttocks seam pointed to by orange arrows. At the left is a "J" shaped cutout that needs to be matched to a "C" shape at the right.
1) #pluderhose, #sewing, #HistoricalTailoring, #costuming
So, the actual sewing begins! I'm starting with the foundation section, and the first step is to sew the seam that goes over the butt. This means matching a "J" shaped seam at the "front" of the pattern to the "C" shaped section at the back.
Line drawing from Janet Arnold's "Patterns of Fashion : the cut and construction of clothes for men and women c. 1560-1620" of Nils Sture's outfit he was murdered in that is preserved at Uppsala Cathedral.
1) #sewing, #HistoricalTailoring, #costuming, #pluderhose.
Ready to start assembly of the prototype pluderhose, I've got all the major pieces cut out (other than some stay tapes that I'll be using twill tape or fusible interfacing for.
The breeches in a lighter green polished linen with yellow trim, yellow buttons, they are baggier than most 18th century breeches, but appear in use into the 1720s
A detail on the buttoned fly with 7 thread covered buttons and one larger fabric covered button.
A detail on the pockets with 6 decorative buttons
A detail from the naval memorial showing a similar pair of breeches on a Danish sailor.
Late 17th century-early 18th century breeches based on the Copenhagen Naval monument.
#sewing
#history
#tailor
#historicaltailoring
#maritime
#pirated
#Denmark
#GreatNorthernWar
Y'all, your boy over here might be slightly unhinged or obsessed. I just dropped $250 on 8 spools of thread for the #WineAndHoneyDoubłet.
#FashionHistory, #sewing, #HistoricalTailoring, #cosplay
(yes, I've been saving up for this for a while)
A section of 3 different colored leathers sewn together against a white background. On the left is a honey colored piece, then a mossy green section of 4mm piping, and on the right is a wine colored piece. A green ruler is on the far right showing a vertical length of 4 inches.
The section of sewn together leather pieces propped on a car door handle in bright sun. On the left is the wine colored leather, with the honey colored piece to the right and the mossy green piping between the two colors.
Backside of the sewn together leather pieces, showing the seam allowances "pressed" open to each side and stitched down
Did a little 4 inch test of making leather covered piping and then sewing it between 2 sections of leather.
Yeah, those colors together are going to rock.
#WineAndHoneyDoubłet, #HistoricalTailoring
Spread out on a cutting table and the floor are the pattern pieces for a doublet laid out on four 9-11 square foot pieces of wine colored leather
Spread out on a cutting table and the floor are the pattern pieces for a doublet laid out on four 9 to 11 square foot pieces of wine colored leather with four additional 9 to 11 square foot pieces of buff/yellowish sides of leather laid over them.
#WineAndHoneyDoubłet, I think I've got all the pattern pieces cut for the lining, underlining and outer. And with some creativity (and a 1/4 inch seam allowance) I "SHOULD" have enough leather for the outer shell and underlining.
#sewing, #Renaissance, #HistoricalTailoring, #cosplay
50 yard spool of cotton macrame cord on a side of moss/olive green leather.
Underside of the stitching start of a 13mm wide strip of leather wrapped around 3mm cotton cord next to it is a quilters measuring gauge for reference, the finished piping is approximately 1/4 inch (6.4mm) wide
Topside view of the stitching start of a 13mm wide strip of leather wrapped around 3mm cotton cord next to it is a quilters measuring gauge for reference, the finished piping is approximately 1/4 inch (6.4mm) wide
A composition of different leathers for the #WineAndHoneyDoubłet. On the bottom is a wine colored, pebble texture goatskin, on top is a 1/2 inch (12.7mm) wide strip of honey colored leather with 7mm wide heart shaped punches spaced 3/4 inch (19mm) apart. On the right side of the honey colored leather is a short section of 1/4 inch (6.4mm) moss/olive grean leather piping.
And more of my bullshit, I'll be making all the leather wrapped piping for the #WineAndHoneyDoubłet as well, some pieces I'll be able to machine sew, but anything that will get sewn onto the doublet will be handsewn around the 3mm hemp cord core. #SewingProject, #cosplay, #HistoricalTailoring
A honey colored leather strip on top of a wine colored leather. There are 1/4 inch heart shaped punches in the honey colored leather allowing the wine color underneath to show through.
Just a quick test of how the pinking will look with the different colored leathers overlayed on each other. #WineAndHoneyDoubłet, #cosplay, #HistoricalTailoring, #RenaissanceHistory, #sewing
Picture of a men's padded and embroidered doublet in the Stibbert Museum (http://www.museumsinflorence.com/musei/stibbert_museum.html#) The doublet is in a cream colored leather with a raised waist level and pointed front, there are 14 skirt tabs and embroidery on the stomach area.
Picture of a man in a doublet based on the Stibbert Museum Jerkin. The doublet is tan with vertical trims in brown and red. It is "slashed" in an "X" pattern with a teal blue wool underlining showing through the slashes. The man is wearing matching Venetian style breeches, in the same fabrics with red cuffs at the knee.
1) So, now that the Stibbert Museum Doublet inspired German Patrician outfit is finished, you might (or might not) be wondering, what's Tom up to now? ( #sewing, #cosplay, #HistoricalTailoring, #RenaissanceHistory)
And, just in case anyone was curious, the doublet weighs in at around 6 lbs (2.72 kg) #GermanPatrician, #HistoricalTailoring, #sewing, #Renaissance, #cosplay
Ok, got the eyelets sewn into the waistband of the breeches to attach to the doublet. 22 of them. #cosplay, #sewing, #HistoricalTailoring
That'll make an impression. #GermanPatrician outfit,, #Renaissance, #HistoricalTailoring, #cosplay, #sewing
Not looking too bad. Fit pretty good. #GermanPatrician outfit, #HistoricalTailoring, #cosplay, #sewing, #craftsky
Looking not to shabby. Ok, the legs and crotch of the Venetian breeches are sewn together, next step is the lining and then attaching the waistband. Once the waistband is attached, I'll decide if I want cuffs or not. #HistoricalTailoring, #sewing, #cosplay, #craftsky
Picture of a leg of Venetian breaches in tan Microsuede with a teal blue underlining showing through "x" shaped slashings with brown and red pinked trim with the waist at the backer pinned into pleats.
Did I forget to mention that I have to gather/pleat 70 inches of fabric into a 36 inch waistband for the Venetian breeches? (and these are just moderate fullness) #sewing, #HistoricalTailoring, #cosplay, #craftsky
One leg complete, calling it a day for sewing. Hoping to get the 2nd one done tomorrow after work and then onto the lining and then attaching the waistband. Can't wait to see how these look with the slashings when finished. #sewing, #craftsky, #HistoricalTailoring, #cosplay
Picture of the slashed tan with brown and red trim colored knee breech sections with red linen pocket pieces pinned on
Ok, adding the inseam pockets to the Venetian breeches. 🧶 #craftsky, #HistoricalTailoring, #cosplay
Got half the buttons sewn on the #GermanPatrician doublet , guess I can work on the sleeves. I'm still deciding whether to put the other 20 on as just decorative on the other side of the front 🧶 #HistoricalTailoring, #SewingProject, #sewing
Recently finished a recreated c. 1790 kilt[the first sewn kilts] and very happy with this! #kilt #sewing #tailoring #handmade #fashion #style #tailor #historicalsewing #historicaltailoring #tartan #wool #scotland #history #handsewn
Ok, that'll work, this length of loop for the buttons should hold things nicely closed. Now I'm just waiting on the buttons to arrive from England. Guess I can make and sew on the 20 button loops while I'm waiting. #craftsky, #sewing, #HistoricalTailoring, #cosplay
Here's an interesting piece from the Victoria & Albert Museum.
"The belly piece is made of cork and layers of linen stitched together and covered with the crimson silk lining." #HistoricalTailoring.
collections.vam.ac.uk/item/O358303...
Close up of two handworked eyelets in red thread in a tan Microsuede sleeve with red and variegated brown/black/white trim.
2 down, 10 to go. Looking forward to finishing the German Patrician doublet so I can start on the Venetian breeches.
#HistoricalTailoring, #craftsky
Picture of the top of a sleeve in taupe Microsuede with red and brown/black/white trim, slashed to show the teal wool underlining with six 1/4 inch eyelets worked in red embroidery floss.
Was going to work on sewing the lining and shell of the #GermanPatrician doublet together today and tomorrow, then remembered I'm waiting on the 3/8 inch red cotton twill tape I need for the button loops, so I'll be working on the eyelets in the sleeves instead. #craftsky, #HistoricalTailoring
Picture of a white canvas, vest type garment turned inside out on a dress maker's dummy with strips with eyelets in them sewn on at the arm holes and waist.
Lacing tapes stitched to the liner of the German Patrician doublet, tomorrow we tackle sewing the shell and lining together. #HistoricalTailoring. 🧶
