All Trieste βneed say about itself is βSua Triestinitaβ! To my mind this is an existentialist sort of place, and its purpose is to be itself.β
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βRainer Maria Rilke from Prague was inspired, on a day of the bora in 1912, to write the best-loved of modern elegies.β
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Surely the only logical response would be to stand on a bridge and scream? But no self-deception sees us through.
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there have been moments when I have perfectly understood the self-portrait called Man Screaming which Egon Schiele painted after his return from Trieste to Vienna, and it has dawned upon me what a nightmare hiatus we all pass through, on the way from birth to death
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My Trieste has been a place of transience, but dear God we are all transients, and sooner or later we all become out-of- date
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Kindness is what matters, all along, at any age-kindness, the ruling principle of nowhere!
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Even hypochondria, the Trieste disease, is not what it was, for that interesting pain in the ear-lobe may not now be imaginary at all, but some obscure senile reality.
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so it is with me, after a lifetime of describing the planet, and I look at Trieste now as I would look into a mirror.
I was the world in which I walked, and what I saw
Or heard or felt came not but from myself.
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Birth and death are the ultimate bookends, and between them a muddied narrative unfolds.
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COULD all this be the true meaning of nowhere this half- real, half-wishful Utopia? Certainly I believe it is what Saunders Lewis had in mind, when he called the best sort of patriotism "a generous spirit of love."
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In Trieste animals are rarely scared of humans, to my mind a sure sign of civic integrity, come wealth or poverty, fame or ignominy, empire or dictatorship or Autonomous Region.
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They are exiles in their own communities, because they are always in a minority, but they form a mighty nation, if they only knew it. It is the nation of nowhere, and I have come to think that its natural capital is Trieste.
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There are people everywhere who form a Fourth World, or a diaspora of their own. They are the lordly ones! They come in all colours.
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all it need say about itself is "Sua TriestinitΓ ." To my mind this is an existentialist sort of place, and its purpose is to be itself. #triesteandthemeaningofnowhere #JanMorris #Morris24 #TandTMON
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It was a grand foretaste, I thought, of vitalities to come or an echo of vigours past.Yet even as I watched, the Trieste effect intervened, like a migraine that clouds the vision & in my dreaming eye I saw the whole bay empty and brooding again, and the castle all alone #Morris24
Hundreds more follow the Joyce Trail, the Svevo Trail or the Rilke Path, armed with maps and pamphlets provided by the tourist authority, and pursuing in fact as in fiction the memories of the three writers
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Svevo the Triestino ironically commemorated lives & love in an essentially commercial city; Joyce extrapolated his view of Trieste into a view of the world; Rilke from Prague was inspired, on a day of the bora in 1912, to write the best-loved of modern elegies. #Morris24
It is a classic fragrance of Trieste: the smell of coffee. It pervaded the streets of the city in its prime, in the days when coffee was kept in huge barrels outside every cafΓ©, and this aromatic dock building is still Europe's No. 1 warehouse of the coffee trade.
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Lloyd Triestino belongs to Taiwanese owners now, but a few of its container ships still sail from Trieste to places like Jeddah, Calcutta, Singapore, Hong Kong and Shanghai, which have known the house flag for generations;
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What had happened? Perhaps it was Ricardo Illy's confident admin, which encouraged the city to look outwards, instead of permanently pondering its own disabilities. Perhaps it was the advent of a new Europe, which seemed to offer Trieste a revival of old opportunities
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There was a thriving traffic in everything profitably resellable, smuggleable or black-marketable-currencies, stamps, electronics, gold. Not far from the Ponterosso market was Darwil's, a 5-story jeweller's famous among gold speculators throughout central Europe.
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In 1935 the Italians invaded Ethiopia, intending to combine it with their existing colonies of Eritrea & Somaliland to create a great new empire in E Africa. Here was a purpose for which Trieste,third entry to the Suez Canal,was better fitted than any other Italian port
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They are gone, all those great vessels, gone with the old greatness of Trieste itself. They had sad ends. The Viribus Unitis was meanly sunk that day at Pola-
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In the deep waters of Trieste bay, not far off Miramare, on the bottom of the sea sands a life-size figure of San Giusto San Giusto del Mare. He is standing, I am told, four-square on the sea floor, bound
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Joyce thought the city "nourished on the food of scepticism," but I think it is dullened by ecumenicism. The creators of modern Trieste deliberately fostered religious diversity in the port,anxious as they were to attract able immigrants from foreign countries & faiths.
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A city seldom thinks about its own demise. The end will almost certainly never happen suddenly, except by war or grand catastrophe, and it will probably never happen at all. Cairo may no longer be the Grand Cairo of the Caliphs, but it is a vital metropolis still.
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