All Trieste βneed say about itself is βSua Triestinitaβ! To my mind this is an existentialist sort of place, and its purpose is to be itself.β
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βRainer Maria Rilke from Prague was inspired, on a day of the bora in 1912, to write the best-loved of modern elegies.β
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Surely the only logical response would be to stand on a bridge and scream? But no self-deception sees us through.
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My Trieste has been a place of transience, but dear God we are all transients, and sooner or later we all become out-of- date
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Kindness is what matters, all along, at any age-kindness, the ruling principle of nowhere!
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Even hypochondria, the Trieste disease, is not what it was, for that interesting pain in the ear-lobe may not now be imaginary at all, but some obscure senile reality.
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so it is with me, after a lifetime of describing the planet, and I look at Trieste now as I would look into a mirror.
I was the world in which I walked, and what I saw
Or heard or felt came not but from myself.
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Birth and death are the ultimate bookends, and between them a muddied narrative unfolds.
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COULD all this be the true meaning of nowhere this half- real, half-wishful Utopia? Certainly I believe it is what Saunders Lewis had in mind, when he called the best sort of patriotism "a generous spirit of love."
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In Trieste animals are rarely scared of humans, to my mind a sure sign of civic integrity, come wealth or poverty, fame or ignominy, empire or dictatorship or Autonomous Region.
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They are exiles in their own communities, because they are always in a minority, but they form a mighty nation, if they only knew it. It is the nation of nowhere, and I have come to think that its natural capital is Trieste.
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There are people everywhere who form a Fourth World, or a diaspora of their own. They are the lordly ones! They come in all colours.
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all it need say about itself is "Sua TriestinitΓ ." To my mind this is an existentialist sort of place, and its purpose is to be itself. #triesteandthemeaningofnowhere #JanMorris #Morris24 #TandTMON
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Hundreds more follow the Joyce Trail, the Svevo Trail or the Rilke Path, armed with maps and pamphlets provided by the tourist authority, and pursuing in fact as in fiction the memories of the three writers
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Lloyd Triestino belongs to Taiwanese owners now, but a few of its container ships still sail from Trieste to places like Jeddah, Calcutta, Singapore, Hong Kong and Shanghai, which have known the house flag for generations;
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They are gone, all those great vessels, gone with the old greatness of Trieste itself. They had sad ends. The Viribus Unitis was meanly sunk that day at Pola-
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In the deep waters of Trieste bay, not far off Miramare, on the bottom of the sea sands a life-size figure of San Giusto San Giusto del Mare. He is standing, I am told, four-square on the sea floor, bound
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(Kosmo)
βIstriaβs heartland, though, high in its karstic hills, remains to this day a purely Croatian territory of recondite fascination. It is the only place in the world where I have seen lightning going upwards from the ground.β
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Today Abbazia is Opatija, Pola is Pula, Pirano is Piran, Rovigno is Rovinj, Parenzo is PoreΔ, Cittanova is Novigrad, Capodistria is Koper, the Gulf of Quarnero is Kvarner bay. Istria itself is Istra now, and that little black steamer never sails away
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It is also like a coded message out of Istria. In Istria the Glagolitic alphabet long ago became a symbol of Slavness, a defiant declaration, defying both political and ecclesiastical disapproval through conquest and conflict, assimilation and oppression.
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The underground river Timava that flows into the Adriatic out of the Karst is attended by many a myth and legend-"vast with a murmur of mountains," Virgil called it;
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Joyce adored his children and loved his wife after his fashion, yet apparently he still felt the need to wander, night after night, down the Via del Solitario to the House of the Golden Key.
I am of the opinion that lust is one of the more banal impulses
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How sad that her bonfire that night, which she saw as a beacon of truest dedication, should have been interpreted ever since as a conflagration of betrayal.
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It used to be said that she burnt the manuscript not in a bedroom grate, but in a bonfire in the garden of their house, and this is the version I prefer.
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