Banded collar, button front short sleeved shirt, lightly tapered at the sides. It is made of white cotton voile with a blue floral print. The design of the print is matched across the front placket and the flapped patch pockets on the chest (which are practically invisible). To let the floral print really sing, the shirt has been minimally topstitched with fine white thread at the front placket, pockets, hem, and collar band. Pale azure shell buttons close the front over matched silk buttonholes.

Inside of the same shirt. French seams close the side and sleeve seams. The French seam on the sleeve tapers to 1/8" at its hem for comfort and also makes it invisible from the outside.

Also finished yesterday was Jeff's #SummerBrunchShirt. Just like with his #BootyJeans, here's a look at the inside as well to show off elfkin construction details. #sewing #fashion #ElfkinCouture

Also in the elfkin workroom today: Jeff’s #BootyJeans and #SummerBrunchShirt AND Matt’s (altered) #BootyBellbottoms were all completed and shipped. It looks like the wreck of the Hesperus up there at the moment, so I’m downstairs eating cookies.

The inner pocket (green) and open waistband (pink) on a pair of jeans under construction.

While you all weren’t looking this morning, I got the collar and hem done on Jeff’s #SummerBrunchShirt and have now moved onto the waistband on his #BootyJeans. #sewing

A short sleeved shirt made of blue and white floral print cotton voile. It’s missing a collar, hem, and buttons.

Jeff’s #SummerBrunchShirt hurtles toward completion with the bodice closed and sleeves attached. #sewing #ElfkinCollection #fashion

Step 1: Before starting the seam, mark a point at the sleeve hem that's 1/8th inch (3mm) in from the final seam line. (The final seam line is marked by the pin placed perpendicular to the hem.) The first seam line (the slightly longer stitches to the right of the smaller staystitches) starts as normal 1/4 inch from the edge. As it reach the bottom, though, it angles out to the point marked 1/8 inch from the final seam line. Finish the threads by pulling them both to one side and taking a double backstitch. You don't want any little dangling bits later.

Step 2 Trim as normal coming to within five or sic threads of the bottom of the seam. Press open and then turn and press into shape per usual.

Step 3 After pressing and turning and pressing some more, this is what you get. Notice how the bevel now tapers in at the bottom. Mark a guideline that's 1/8 inch in from the bottom and parallel to the rest of the seam line. Stitch the final seam per usual (in this case I stitched at 1/4 inch) following the guideline at the end.

Step 4 Press open and admire the results! The seam now ends in that discreet 1/8 inch nubbin at the bottom.

The summer cotton shirtings that I use most love a French seam. And I love to hem a short sleeve *before* closing the side seam, which can make things tricky. So here's a little demo of the technique for beveled French seams courtesy of Jeff's #SummerBrunchShirt. Deets in the alt text. #sewing

Closeup of a flapped patch pocket on a shirt front. The shirt is made of blue and white floral fabric, and the pocket has been cut to match the floral print exactly.

Back in the workroom this morning, pockets are basted onto the fronts of Jeff’s #SummerBrunchShirt and ready for machine #sewing.

Related: this level of care and precision is why elfkin’s prices are what they are. #fashion #ElfkinCollection

Patch pockets for a pair of jeans and a shirt. Jeans are dark indigo as shirt is white and blue floral print. One of each piece is shown from back.

I spent the morning finishing up the alterations to Matt’s jeans and am now back on Jeff’s order. Patch pockets for his #BootyJeans and #SummerBrunchShirt are all prepped. The flaps on the shirt pockets are interfaced with bias cut organza for stability. #sewing

Cut pieces for a blue on white floral print shirt and dark indigo denim jeans lie flat on a gridded table.

Front pieces of shirt shown overlapping each other at center to show off print matching.

Jeff’s #SummerBrunchShirt and #BootyJeans are underway. The majority of cutting is done, the denim is overlocked all around the edges, and all of the shirting staystitched. Daddy likes a neat sew from the start.

A short sleeved button front shirt with a banded collar made in plain muslin lies flat on a cutting table. It has black topstitching at collar and front placket and bronze metal snaps. Pockets have been drawn on in green marker with the left pocket marked with a red check mark. Adjustments are noted in red marker at the neck and armpits.

Matt's tailored bell bottom jeans shipped this morning, the wool suiting for Nick's next look is out for steam pressing, and Lisa's blouse has yet to return for adjustments. What's a boy to do in the meantime? Alter the muslin of Jeff's #SummerBrunchShirt, of course! #sewing