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A pair of almost black indigo jeans topstitched with matched thread. They are folded in half at the center front to show the zip fly, a brass button, and a pink bandana fabric waistband lining.

For maximum softness, all rivets are replaced with tacking stitches.

A pair of almost black indigo jeans topstitched with matched thread. They are folded in half at the center front to show the zip fly, a brass button, and a pink bandana fabric waistband lining. For maximum softness, all rivets are replaced with tacking stitches.

Back view of same pair of jean, folded at center back seam. Pockets have an opposing chevron pattern stitched across them for reinforcement.

Back view of same pair of jean, folded at center back seam. Pockets have an opposing chevron pattern stitched across them for reinforcement.

The waistband is lined with pink bandana cotton to both reduce bulk and provide stability to the stretch denim waistband. Front pocket bags are green bandana cotton and have flap that extend from the top of the bag into the waistband and center front to keep them from twisting when worn. Their edges are overlocked rather than French seamed to reduce bulk and speed drying. The fly extension/facing is a cut-on piece (more bulk reduction) and is lined on the inner guard with more green bandana fabric. Side and crotch seams are finished with standard overlocked. Side seams are pressed open and flat. Inseam has been felled to the back with two rows of topstitching. Crotch seam is similarly finished and felled to the left. This is different than the enclosed felled seam on commercially made jeans. The technique greatly reduces bulk and stiffness along those seams and facilitates later alterations. All side seam allowances are 3/4" to allow for considerable future alterations.

The waistband is lined with pink bandana cotton to both reduce bulk and provide stability to the stretch denim waistband. Front pocket bags are green bandana cotton and have flap that extend from the top of the bag into the waistband and center front to keep them from twisting when worn. Their edges are overlocked rather than French seamed to reduce bulk and speed drying. The fly extension/facing is a cut-on piece (more bulk reduction) and is lined on the inner guard with more green bandana fabric. Side and crotch seams are finished with standard overlocked. Side seams are pressed open and flat. Inseam has been felled to the back with two rows of topstitching. Crotch seam is similarly finished and felled to the left. This is different than the enclosed felled seam on commercially made jeans. The technique greatly reduces bulk and stiffness along those seams and facilitates later alterations. All side seam allowances are 3/4" to allow for considerable future alterations.

Inside back view of same jeans. All points where belt loops and back pockets are anchored with tacking stitches have reinforcing pieces of denim selvedge. This extra bit of reinforcement keeps them from deforming or tearing the stretch denim.

Inside back view of same jeans. All points where belt loops and back pockets are anchored with tacking stitches have reinforcing pieces of denim selvedge. This extra bit of reinforcement keeps them from deforming or tearing the stretch denim.

Jeff's #BootyJeans are done! Here's a look at them from both outside and in to show off more hidden features of elfkin construction. Details in the alt text. #sewing #fashion #ElfkinCollection

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A short sleeved shirt made of blue and white floral print cotton voile. It’s missing a collar, hem, and buttons.

A short sleeved shirt made of blue and white floral print cotton voile. It’s missing a collar, hem, and buttons.

Jeff’s #SummerBrunchShirt hurtles toward completion with the bodice closed and sleeves attached. #sewing #ElfkinCollection #fashion

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Closeup of a flapped patch pocket on a shirt front. The shirt is made of blue and white floral fabric, and the pocket has been cut to match the floral print exactly.

Closeup of a flapped patch pocket on a shirt front. The shirt is made of blue and white floral fabric, and the pocket has been cut to match the floral print exactly.

Back in the workroom this morning, pockets are basted onto the fronts of Jeff’s #SummerBrunchShirt and ready for machine #sewing.

Related: this level of care and precision is why elfkin’s prices are what they are. #fashion #ElfkinCollection

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A swath of abstract floral print in blues, purples, and blacks on white ground. On top of it lie three denim swatches marked A (dark indigo, thin rib), B (medium blue, thin rib), and C (dark charcoal, medium rib).

A swath of abstract floral print in blues, purples, and blacks on white ground. On top of it lie three denim swatches marked A (dark indigo, thin rib), B (medium blue, thin rib), and C (dark charcoal, medium rib).

Went to Mood this afternoon for Jeff's shirting (a super summery cotton voile) and some stretch denim options for matching jeans. #sewing #fashion #ElfkinCollection

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A plain muslin version of a button front, banded collar shirt lies folded and flat on a table. Breast pockets have been drawn on in lavender marker. A set of small zip top bags containing button samples lies on the left side of the shirt.

A plain muslin version of a button front, banded collar shirt lies folded and flat on a table. Breast pockets have been drawn on in lavender marker. A set of small zip top bags containing button samples lies on the left side of the shirt.

Next up in the queue: a fresh muslin of Jeff’s shirt along with some button options for the final version. #sewing #fashion #ElfkinCollection

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A pair of blue jean lies flat on a table, inside out with back leg facing up. It’s open at the side and crotch seams.

A pair of blue jean lies flat on a table, inside out with back leg facing up. It’s open at the side and crotch seams.

I’ve been terrible about posting since I started with a new approach to working through orders last week (more on this later). But I’m still here, queer, and #sewing away in the elfkin workroom. First up today: alterations to Matt’s jeans. #ElfkinCollection

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Closeup of back pockets on a pair of jeans made of plain muslin. On the left pocket, a sea turtle illustration outlined in blue and about 2 inches square appears at the upper right corner of the pocket. On the right pocket, the same illustration is enlarged to cover almost the entire pocket. Both turtles face to upper right.

Closeup of back pockets on a pair of jeans made of plain muslin. On the left pocket, a sea turtle illustration outlined in blue and about 2 inches square appears at the upper right corner of the pocket. On the right pocket, the same illustration is enlarged to cover almost the entire pocket. Both turtles face to upper right.

Same turtle illustration but on front left pocket facing. The turtle is enlarged to cover the entire facing with its flippers and shell somewhat cropped. It faces right.

Same turtle illustration but on front left pocket facing. The turtle is enlarged to cover the entire facing with its flippers and shell somewhat cropped. It faces right.

One more of the turtles on the right front pocket facing. It’s about 3 inches square and is positioned left of center on the facing.

One more of the turtles on the right front pocket facing. It’s about 3 inches square and is positioned left of center on the facing.

A fresh muslin of Jeff’s tailored jeans is done to test changes made to yoke and back pockets. And of course to show options for this sea turtle illustration (which will ultimately be topstitched).

P.S. I used the pen plotter on my Cricut.

#sewing #ElfkinCollection

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Back pocket and front pocket facing pieces traced in red on plain muslin. Within the boundaries of each piece the outline of a sea turtle has been traced in blue ink using a pen plotter. The turtles are shown in large and small options for each pocket type.

Back pocket and front pocket facing pieces traced in red on plain muslin. Within the boundaries of each piece the outline of a sea turtle has been traced in blue ink using a pen plotter. The turtles are shown in large and small options for each pocket type.

I’m testing out some options for adding a bit of sea turtle embellishment to Jeff’s tailored jeans. Will use these on the muslin I’m stitching up today. #sewing #ElfkinCollection

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Inside front view of a pair of dark indigo jeans. The waistband, pockets, and fly shield are made of navy blue bandana cotton. Two pairs of silver metal buttons are placed to each side of the fly.

Inside front view of a pair of dark indigo jeans. The waistband, pockets, and fly shield are made of navy blue bandana cotton. Two pairs of silver metal buttons are placed to each side of the fly.

Closeup of the basted hem of same jeans.

Closeup of the basted hem of same jeans.

The waistband on Matt’s bell bottoms, including suspenders buttons, is pressed and basted into place. As are the hems. All that’s left is some topstitching, belt loops, and a front button. #sewing #ElfkinCollection

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The waistband described in post shown under construction. It is still separate from jeans and lays face down on a gridded table to show inside construction. The band is split at center back and side seams with 3/4-inch intact allowances. The outer band in dark indigo denim the lining is powder blue paisley bandana fabric. Basted with its edge right up to the folded seam between outer and lining is a long strip of beige grosgrain ribbon.

The waistband described in post shown under construction. It is still separate from jeans and lays face down on a gridded table to show inside construction. The band is split at center back and side seams with 3/4-inch intact allowances. The outer band in dark indigo denim the lining is powder blue paisley bandana fabric. Basted with its edge right up to the folded seam between outer and lining is a long strip of beige grosgrain ribbon.

As I wrap up Matt’s bell bottoms, I want to share a key detail that makes elfkin jeans so comfy. It’s this tailored waistband. Curved to match your shape, split into 4 pieces for easy alteration, lined for less bulk, and stabilized with grosgrain, they are de-fucking-luxe. #sewing #ElfkinCollection

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Post image

After six weeks of finicky hand #sewing unforgiving fabrics for Lisa’s order, I cannot tell you how happy I am to work on some uncomplicated, machine sew-able denim for Matt’s tailored bell bottoms. #ElfkinCollection

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Individual pieces of a pair of dark indigo denim jeans lay flat on a gridded table. They are accompanied by pocket pieces cut from baby blue paisley cotton bandana fabric.

Individual pieces of a pair of dark indigo denim jeans lay flat on a gridded table. They are accompanied by pocket pieces cut from baby blue paisley cotton bandana fabric.

Matt’s bell bottom jeans are all cut and marked in lovely Italian denim. #sewing #fashion #ElfkinCollection

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A button front shirt with a pintuck pleated front placket, narrow winged collar, and French cuffs. It is made of rust red cotton shirt with floral (roses and bees in white on a red background) accents at the yoke, inner collar band, and cuffs.

A button front shirt with a pintuck pleated front placket, narrow winged collar, and French cuffs. It is made of rust red cotton shirt with floral (roses and bees in white on a red background) accents at the yoke, inner collar band, and cuffs.

Closeup on collar of same shirt to show that undercollar is faced with same floral fabric and yoke and inner collar band.

Closeup on collar of same shirt to show that undercollar is faced with same floral fabric and yoke and inner collar band.

In addition to taming a heaving scrap hamper (it's been piling up since July), I managed to get @Drub's #DandyShirt washed, pressed out, and boxed up for shipping.

This color/print combo is so <mwah> that I may make one for myself.

#sewing #fashion #ElfkinCollection

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Closeup of the front buttonhole placket and undercollar of a tailored dress shirt. The main fabric is a rust red, and the undercollar is a complementary dark red printed with white roses and bees. Buttonholes are done in matched dark red thread, and their threads tails are still attached.

Closeup of the front buttonhole placket and undercollar of a tailored dress shirt. The main fabric is a rust red, and the undercollar is a complementary dark red printed with white roses and bees. Buttonholes are done in matched dark red thread, and their threads tails are still attached.

Drub’s #DandyShirt is back from seamstress Karyn, and it’s time to put in the buttonholes and buttons. #sewing #fashion #ElfkinCollection

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A smiling man looks directly at the camera. He wears a periwinkle purple collared button up shirt with floral details at the French cuffs and yoke and deep blue jeans.

A smiling man looks directly at the camera. He wears a periwinkle purple collared button up shirt with floral details at the French cuffs and yoke and deep blue jeans.

Same shirt shown on a hanger from the front.

Same shirt shown on a hanger from the front.

Same shirt shown on a hanger from the back to see full floral detail on the yoke.

Same shirt shown on a hanger from the back to see full floral detail on the yoke.

Will just came through to pick up his #DandyShirt. Did I tear up a little bit seeing it on him for the first time? You bet your sweet bippy I did! #sewing #fashion #art #ElfkinCollection

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Three bundles of shirting fabric in the colors described in post.

Three bundles of shirting fabric in the colors described in post.

Fabric for moar shirt orders! The light yellow and peach are for Nick’s classic dress shirts. The periwinkle and rust are bound for Dandy Shirts for Will and Drub respectively. #sewing #ElfkinCollection

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Pinned pieces for a coat and dress shirt lay flat, fanned out on a table.

Pinned pieces for a coat and dress shirt lay flat, fanned out on a table.

Today’s #sewing sprint is about to begin. I’m double fisting the toiles and have both Robyn’s and Will’s pinned and ready to go to the machine. #ElfkinCollection

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Pieces for the garments mentioned in post traced in blue (shirt) and red (coat) on plain muslin.

Pieces for the garments mentioned in post traced in blue (shirt) and red (coat) on plain muslin.

Moving right along… it’s time to mark and cut toiles! On deck: Robyn’s coat foundation and Will’s #DandyShirt toile. #sewing #ElfkinCollection

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Pieces for the front of a shirt on white drafting paper with blue grid marks.

Pieces for the front of a shirt on white drafting paper with blue grid marks.

Still in pattern drafting mode. Now up: refinements to Will’s bodice sloper before it gets adapted into a Dandy Shirt. #sewing #ElfkinCollection

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American society at large may be unraveling before our very eyes, but business continues apace for elfkin. Robyn just came through to be measured for her modern frock coat (officially the second most popular offering in the #ElfkinCollection).

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Betwixt and between bouts of existential dread, I’m back at it in the #sewing room working on #ElfkinCollection orders. Related: it’s remarkable the similarity between a “full bust” and a “prominent shoulder blade” adjustment. (The latter being the same as the former, only applied to the back.)

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Sketch of a pair of drawstring short shorts and short sleeved tunic to lays atop pattern pieces for a pair of trousers.

Sketch of a pair of drawstring short shorts and short sleeved tunic to lays atop pattern pieces for a pair of trousers.

All caught up on customer stuff, it’s time to start patterns for a new #ElfkinCollection look: #SkysOutThighsOut. Will be making for myself for a change. Rather than predictable jersey, I’m planning to use linen and cotton lawn.

And yes, Virginia, I 100% use pre-drawn croquis. #sewing #fashion

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Closeup of a set-in sleeve pinned into the armscye of a shirt made of plain white cotton. Its seam lines and alignment notches are marked in teal pen.

Closeup of a set-in sleeve pinned into the armscye of a shirt made of plain white cotton. Its seam lines and alignment notches are marked in teal pen.

Sleeves are pinned in and ready for stitching on Will’s shirt sloper. He also has a Dandy Shirt, which is quickly becoming the most popular piece from the #ElfkinCollection, on order. #sewing

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A white button front shirt with French cuffs lays flat on a gridded cutting table. The shirt is obviously roughly sewn and is covered in magenta marker notations.

A white button front shirt with French cuffs lays flat on a gridded cutting table. The shirt is obviously roughly sewn and is covered in magenta marker notations.

That’s the fitting muslin of Drub’s Dandy Shirt all done. #ElfkinCollection #sewing #fashion

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A pile of pattern pieces for a button up shirt is held down by a clear ruler with red numbering. In the background in another pile of pattern pieces for a bodice sloper. All pieces are dragged on semi-transparent white pattern paper with blue grid marks.

A pile of pattern pieces for a button up shirt is held down by a clear ruler with red numbering. In the background in another pile of pattern pieces for a bodice sloper. All pieces are dragged on semi-transparent white pattern paper with blue grid marks.

Presto change-o, re-arrange-o… Drub’s bodice sloper is transformed into a pattern for an #ElfkinCollection #DandyShirt. It’s been four years since I last drew one of these, and it took me an embarrassingly long time to remember the folding/drafting strategy for the pin tuck on the placket. #sewing

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Preview
Spring 2025 Look Book — elfk.in

The #ElfkinCollection Look Book is finally done and live!

#fashion #lgbtq #art

www.elfk.in/spring-2025-...

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I’d hoped to have the look book for the #ElfkinCollection done today, but that seems unlikely to happen. A person can only push the pixels so fast.

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A group of seven smiling people of all shapes, sizes, colors, and genders pose in a literal rainbow of colorful clothing.

A group of seven smiling people of all shapes, sizes, colors, and genders pose in a literal rainbow of colorful clothing.

A group of four smiling people of all shapes, sizes, colors, and genders pose in a literal rainbow of colorful clothing.

A group of four smiling people of all shapes, sizes, colors, and genders pose in a literal rainbow of colorful clothing.

While I was fluttering around like a Nervous Nelly backstage before the #ElfkinCollection show yesterday, Abby had the wherewithal to snap a couple of fabulous pix. #fashion

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Yes, Virginia, yesterday’s #ElfkinCollection trunk show was indeed a success! Got lots of new eyes on my fashions, made some sales, looked fierce. What I’m most proud of were the folks who told me how it didn’t feel like a typical #fashion event but instead was very body inclusive and approachable.

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A man with a shaved head and glasses poses in an urban park with blooming Hong Kong orchid trees with their pink blossoms in the background. He wears matching butter yellow vest and pants with orange satin brocade details on the pockets over a fitted, long sleeve t-shirt made of blush pink with raspberry cuffs and collar.

A man with a shaved head and glasses poses in an urban park with blooming Hong Kong orchid trees with their pink blossoms in the background. He wears matching butter yellow vest and pants with orange satin brocade details on the pockets over a fitted, long sleeve t-shirt made of blush pink with raspberry cuffs and collar.

Here’s Abdullah (Abby) with another sneak peek at one of the #ElfkinCollection looks that will be in the show tomorrow. I think that this buttery yellow twill is perfect for an autumn brunch with the gurls! #fashion #art #lgbtq

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