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Banded collar, button front short sleeved shirt, lightly tapered at the sides. It is made of white cotton voile with a blue floral print. The design of the print is matched across the front placket and the flapped patch pockets on the chest (which are practically invisible). To let the floral print really sing, the shirt has been minimally topstitched with fine white thread at the front placket, pockets, hem, and collar band. Pale azure shell buttons close the front over matched silk buttonholes.

Banded collar, button front short sleeved shirt, lightly tapered at the sides. It is made of white cotton voile with a blue floral print. The design of the print is matched across the front placket and the flapped patch pockets on the chest (which are practically invisible). To let the floral print really sing, the shirt has been minimally topstitched with fine white thread at the front placket, pockets, hem, and collar band. Pale azure shell buttons close the front over matched silk buttonholes.

Inside of the same shirt. French seams close the side and sleeve seams. The French seam on the sleeve tapers to 1/8" at its hem for comfort and also makes it invisible from the outside.

Inside of the same shirt. French seams close the side and sleeve seams. The French seam on the sleeve tapers to 1/8" at its hem for comfort and also makes it invisible from the outside.

Also finished yesterday was Jeff's #SummerBrunchShirt. Just like with his #BootyJeans, here's a look at the inside as well to show off elfkin construction details. #sewing #fashion #ElfkinCouture

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A pair of almost black indigo jeans topstitched with matched thread. They are folded in half at the center front to show the zip fly, a brass button, and a pink bandana fabric waistband lining.

For maximum softness, all rivets are replaced with tacking stitches.

A pair of almost black indigo jeans topstitched with matched thread. They are folded in half at the center front to show the zip fly, a brass button, and a pink bandana fabric waistband lining. For maximum softness, all rivets are replaced with tacking stitches.

Back view of same pair of jean, folded at center back seam. Pockets have an opposing chevron pattern stitched across them for reinforcement.

Back view of same pair of jean, folded at center back seam. Pockets have an opposing chevron pattern stitched across them for reinforcement.

The waistband is lined with pink bandana cotton to both reduce bulk and provide stability to the stretch denim waistband. Front pocket bags are green bandana cotton and have flap that extend from the top of the bag into the waistband and center front to keep them from twisting when worn. Their edges are overlocked rather than French seamed to reduce bulk and speed drying. The fly extension/facing is a cut-on piece (more bulk reduction) and is lined on the inner guard with more green bandana fabric. Side and crotch seams are finished with standard overlocked. Side seams are pressed open and flat. Inseam has been felled to the back with two rows of topstitching. Crotch seam is similarly finished and felled to the left. This is different than the enclosed felled seam on commercially made jeans. The technique greatly reduces bulk and stiffness along those seams and facilitates later alterations. All side seam allowances are 3/4" to allow for considerable future alterations.

The waistband is lined with pink bandana cotton to both reduce bulk and provide stability to the stretch denim waistband. Front pocket bags are green bandana cotton and have flap that extend from the top of the bag into the waistband and center front to keep them from twisting when worn. Their edges are overlocked rather than French seamed to reduce bulk and speed drying. The fly extension/facing is a cut-on piece (more bulk reduction) and is lined on the inner guard with more green bandana fabric. Side and crotch seams are finished with standard overlocked. Side seams are pressed open and flat. Inseam has been felled to the back with two rows of topstitching. Crotch seam is similarly finished and felled to the left. This is different than the enclosed felled seam on commercially made jeans. The technique greatly reduces bulk and stiffness along those seams and facilitates later alterations. All side seam allowances are 3/4" to allow for considerable future alterations.

Inside back view of same jeans. All points where belt loops and back pockets are anchored with tacking stitches have reinforcing pieces of denim selvedge. This extra bit of reinforcement keeps them from deforming or tearing the stretch denim.

Inside back view of same jeans. All points where belt loops and back pockets are anchored with tacking stitches have reinforcing pieces of denim selvedge. This extra bit of reinforcement keeps them from deforming or tearing the stretch denim.

Jeff's #BootyJeans are done! Here's a look at them from both outside and in to show off more hidden features of elfkin construction. Details in the alt text. #sewing #fashion #ElfkinCollection

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Also in the elfkin workroom today: Jeff’s #BootyJeans and #SummerBrunchShirt AND Matt’s (altered) #BootyBellbottoms were all completed and shipped. It looks like the wreck of the Hesperus up there at the moment, so I’m downstairs eating cookies.

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The inner pocket (green) and open waistband (pink) on a pair of jeans under construction.

The inner pocket (green) and open waistband (pink) on a pair of jeans under construction.

While you all weren’t looking this morning, I got the collar and hem done on Jeff’s #SummerBrunchShirt and have now moved onto the waistband on his #BootyJeans. #sewing

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Closeup of a jeans pocket under construction.

Closeup of a jeans pocket under construction.

Putting in the front pockets on Jeff’s #BootyJeans, I thought to share this hidden detail. These are the outer pocket bags just after turning. See how the denim is cheated a bit to the inside? Once they’re topstitched around the opening, this #tailoring trick keeps the lining totally hidden. #sewing

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Patch pockets for a pair of jeans and a shirt. Jeans are dark indigo as shirt is white and blue floral print. One of each piece is shown from back.

Patch pockets for a pair of jeans and a shirt. Jeans are dark indigo as shirt is white and blue floral print. One of each piece is shown from back.

I spent the morning finishing up the alterations to Matt’s jeans and am now back on Jeff’s order. Patch pockets for his #BootyJeans and #SummerBrunchShirt are all prepped. The flaps on the shirt pockets are interfaced with bias cut organza for stability. #sewing

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Two double chevrons of decorative reinforcing stitching in dark blue on dark indigo denim.

Two double chevrons of decorative reinforcing stitching in dark blue on dark indigo denim.

With a couple of minutes to spare before dinner, the reinforcing stitches for the back pockets on Jeff’s #BootyJeans are done. As the stitching inevitably distorts stretch denim, I do it first and *then* cut the pocket pieces. #sewing

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Cut pieces for a blue on white floral print shirt and dark indigo denim jeans lie flat on a gridded table.

Cut pieces for a blue on white floral print shirt and dark indigo denim jeans lie flat on a gridded table.

Front pieces of shirt shown overlapping each other at center to show off print matching.

Front pieces of shirt shown overlapping each other at center to show off print matching.

Jeff’s #SummerBrunchShirt and #BootyJeans are underway. The majority of cutting is done, the denim is overlocked all around the edges, and all of the shirting staystitched. Daddy likes a neat sew from the start.

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#tightjeans #jeans #sexyjeans #bootyjeans #jeansbooty #denim #hotjeans #sexy #tightfit

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