Everest High Pass Trek is an epic journey through the Khumbu region, crossing three high-altitude passes - Renjo La, Cho La, and Kongma La.
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Having enjoyed reliving our #ThreePasses winter walk from Nov/Dec 2023, I thought I’d post a similar brief day by day record of our October/November 2022 walk around the #ManasluCircuit and #TsumValley. Day -2 to follow later.
Sange and Ongchu, happy as ever
Gokyo sunset
The astonishing view from close to Renjo La
Back in KTM with our trek-master, Gokul Thapa of Real Himalaya.
#ThreePasses
The greatest walk in the world? For sure, the finest and most enjoyable we have undertaken. Going in winter was a risk that paid off with superb weather day after day. Our companions were delightful company and looked after us quietly and without fuss. But don’t forget your big coat!
Looking down on the courtyard garden of the Kathmandu Guest House
Christmas was almost upon us
Nepali Thali for dinner
#ThreePasses
22/12/23
The return to Kathmandu can be a culture shock after the calm and peace of the high mountains. The Kathmandu Guest House with its gardens helps break you in gently.
#ThreePasses
21/12/23
With the news that we could fly a day early, it was an early start to walk the short distance to the airport to check on. All very hectic, as 4 flights would land and then leave within one hour. Winter schedule.
On the way to Lukla
Back in the land of draught beer
Lukla was deep winter quiet
First view of the infamous Tenzing Hilary Airport
#ThreePasses
20/12/23
A short final day of our walk from Monjo to Lukla. We were still a day in front of schedule so were hoping Sange could bring our flight back to KTM forward one day.
#ThreePasses
19/12/23
Today we moved further down the Bhote Kosi valley, heading for Namche and then Monjo, leaving us just a short hop on 20/12 to Lukla. The highest ground was behind us.
#ThreePasses
18/12/23
The unforgettable view from Renjo La across to Chomolungma, Lhotse and Makalu.
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Off by 07.30 with a long day ahead. The sun yet to appear over the Himalayan giants.
Ongchu making steady progress to the La, Chomolungma and Lhotse behind.
Gokyo now a way behind, the 8,000m mountains make their presence felt.
#ThreePasses
18/12/23
The crossing of Renjo La, 5,427m
A third day in a row walking to a point above 5,000m. Habit forming. 😁 This was my favourite Pass because of the fantastic views. A couple of steep, loose sections and some scrambling towards the La kept us honest.
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The main Gokyo lake with the Ngozumpa Glacier behind and Cholatse still prominent.
Chomolungma, Nuptse and Lhotse showing their great height.
Almost at the summit
#ThreePasses
17/12/23
Gokyo Ri, 5,357m
A name that will always resonate with me as displaying the finest mountain panorama I have ever been lucky enough to see. 1 hour 45 mins from the lodge saw us up top having enjoyed ever expanding views as we climbed.
#ThreePasses
16/12/23
As a bonus, here is the sensational and very cold Gokyo sunset from 16/12. Himalayan beauty is like no other. 💜🙏
Heading off from Dzonghla for Cho La
Looking back at the splendid Cholatse
Gaining height every step
Always remember to glance behind you once in a while
#ThreePasses
16/12/23
The crossing of Cho La, 5,420m
Yet another lovely day but with the usual brutally cold start. We were soon in the sun and gaining height. Cho La hides away around a corner, protected by its small glacier.
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The East face of Nuptse above Lobuche, the hanging glacier long gone sadly.
View of Cholatse. Our way, the traverse path on the brown hillside.
The memorial to the late Scott Fischer, one of those who sadly perished in the 1996 events on Chomolungma.
#ThreePasses
15/12/23
Our planning did not include a diversion out and back to Everest Base Camp. I see no fascination in that place. And so far we had traveled almost without company and saw no reason to abandon that benefit. From Lobuche, everyone bar us went to Gorak Shep. We left for Dzonglha.
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Brutally cold start to the day
Welcome sun to warm cold fingers and faces
Gaining height with Himalayan giants just behind
#ThreePasses
14/12/23
The crossing of Kongma La, 5,535m
Another brutally cold night meant a temperature of -8C in the dining room for breakfast. Muesli with gloves on. We had intersected with two Americans and two Italians as well as their Nepali support so it was a mixed group leaving for the La.
Lhotse South Face looking massive
Looking back towards the Namche peaks
Rivers and streams frozen into solid water ice by the -20C nights. ❄️
#ThreePasses
13/12/23
A short hop from Dingboche 4,350m to Chukkung at 4,730m which kept us within sensible acclimatisation parameters. Very cold with temps below zero and watercourses all frozen hard. Plumbing would be under stress from here on.
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The South faces of Nuptse (l) and Lhotse (r)
Bridge across the Imja Khola taking the trail up to Ama Dablam base camp
Some colour in an increasingly sterile landscape.
#ThreePasses
12/12/23
Today we crossed the 4,000m contour and wouldn’t duck back beneath it again until our penultimate day somewhere between Thame and Monjo. The shortish day up to Dingboche at 4,350m took just 2.5 hours and we increasingly felt the giant presences of Lhotse and Nuptse.
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Leaving a cold Khumjung
View to Phortse from the path to Mong La
Phortse with Ama Dablam behind
#ThreePasses
11/12/23
Our schedule had us heading for Tengboche and its famed monastery. After a look at the map, we opted to head from a very cold Khumjung along and up to Mong La (3,973m) then a descent into Phortse Dranka and a climb to Phortse itself and an early lunch dal bhat.
Giant mani stone in Namche
Namche School morning assembly
On the trail to Khumjung
Descending into Khumjung
#ThreePasses
10/12/23
The schedule called for a rest day in Namche. But after a short discussion and as we’d caught up some time around Junbesi and been idle for much of 09/12, we opted for a short day to Khumjung. We passed above the Namche School and could see the kids out for morning assembly.
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The gateway to the higher lands
The Hilary Bridge replacement. Sensational aspect.
Chomolungma sitting in splendid isolation
#ThreePasses
09/12/23
The plan was to have a short day (3 hours) to Namche as it was my birthday. It’s a stiff little climb up to the perfectly sited Sherpa capital and many and various delights await there. About two thirds of the way up the climb, a second view of Chomolungma awaits.
Schneider map extract
The sun creeping down into the Dudh Kosi valley
Monastery perched on a knoll. The Lamas know where to build
First view of the sacred peak which rises behind Namche
#ThreePasses
08/12/23
A delightful day of walking up the Dudh Kosi valley from Surke to Monjo. There were signs everywhere of our moving into land dominated by the Buddhist faith. The ups and downs were never excessive and the scenery delightful. We could almost smell the high ground ahead.
The day’s route from Kharikhola to Surke. Map images are from the splendid ‘Schneider series’ now maintained by the Technical University of Dresden.
Incense burner
Nepal’s national flower
Starting the day still in the land of agriculture.
#ThreePasses
07/12/23
A day of contrast with a lovely rural start to the day, then banging our heads on the new jeep road being constructed to eventually reach Lukla, followed by a diversion to avoid blasting work (Mule Shit Pass..) and then some rain, our first, as we dropped into Surke, by the DK.
Dawn light at Thaksindu La at 3,000m
The chap on the left was the local stand up comedian. Whilst our routes intersected, he had Sange and Ongchu in stitches.
Morning tea in Nunthala
Buckwheat fields on the descent to the Dudh Kosi
#ThreePasses
06/12/23
Beautiful dawn light at the La before breakfast. The day began with a 1,500m descent much of it on ancient Nepali steps. We broke for tea at Nunthala (ginger, lemon and honey is perfect) and then made our way down to cross the Dudh Kosi the river that drains the upper Khumbu.
View through the outer door of Junbesi monastery
Beautiful mani wall stones
Small shrine to Buddha
Valley scenery
#ThreePasses
05/12/23
The plan called for a short walk and then a rest day. After a chat with Sange, we agreed the first of several tweaks. Feeling fit, we would rise promptly and wander North up the valley from Junbesi, then an early lunch and then do a full day to Taksindu La at 3,071m.
Heading for Lamjura La
Clouds over Numbur Himal
Sensational view on the way down to Junbesi
Steep grassy slope that had our fell running/training genes all excited
#ThreePasses
04/12/23
Our third day of walking had us tackling a climb of 1,000m out of Sete to reach Lamjura La at 3,535m (not one of our Three Passes). Then a section made more complex by the mess left by logging operations, then a delightful descent to Junbesi. Views of Numbur Himal, 6,959m.
#ThreePasses
03/12/23
The day started with a long descent to cross the Likhu Khola and a lunch stop in Kenja. A good spot to pick up some fresh fruit which would be non-existent in a week or so. Then a long climb up to Sete at 2575m, our stop for the night. 17k and 1350m of ascent for the day.
#ThreePasses
02/12/23
The first part of our walk took us to the Sherpa capital Namche Bazar which we hoped to reach on 9/12 after 67 miles on foot with 25,590' of ascent and 21,660' of descent. On our way we passed through the agricultural and peaceful lower Solu Khumbu.
Lunch stop on the road to Jiri
Passing through Charikot
Gauri Sankar was with us much of the day.
Close up of Gauri Sankar
#ThreePasses
01/12/23
Sange Sherpa and Ongchu Sherpa met us at KHG. We had walked with these two before. Our walk was to begin at Jiri, and our journey was aided by the ‘Swiss Road’ designed and built by Swiss engineers starting in 1985. Best road in Nepal. 9,000 Nepalis involve in the work. 1/3
#ThreePasses
30/11/23
Into Kathmandu by 10.00 am. Sorted the 30 day visa and grabbed the bags.
Collected by our good friend Gokul Thapa of Real Himalaya and dropped at the famous Kathmandu Guest House.
Currency to change and legs to stretch in Thamel. A KGH curry and Gorkha to wash it down. 😃
#ThreePasses
29/11/23
Bags packed, flying to Kathmandu via Doha, excited about the long winter walk ahead.
